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> Problems with waterslide transfers, Station letters flaked off
sambwoy
post 18 Mar 2010, 17:08
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I had applied the name of my station in BR lettering to the brickwork of the building I had just built using a second-hand pack of FMR transfers (now Fox Transfers). I had discovered that they broke off with the gentlest touch.

The brick an off-cut of the brick sheet that Hobby's make, but I am thinking it could be the age of the transfers.

What do you think?
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ddolfelin
post 18 Mar 2010, 17:14
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Yes - probably dried out.
Were they on long enough for you to spray them with matt varnish or did you spray them first?


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sambwoy
post 18 Mar 2010, 17:20
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Varnish was to come very last thing. I had had thoughts about modifying the name. I was just thinking it might have been the surface not adhering with the transfer.
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Taz Devil
post 19 Mar 2010, 09:58
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Adhesives actually have a use by/ best before time limit (most are usually used will within this time preiod though) so it is very likely that the quality and strength of the adhesive has deteriated over time.


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Grifter_Guru
post 19 Mar 2010, 10:12
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sambwoy........

Have you considered the use of humbrol "Decal fix" ?? a thin application before applying the transfer, a thin coat once the transfer is in position, then matt varnish. Usually does the trick for me.

Worth a look IMHO.


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Colin Parks
post 23 Mar 2010, 23:24
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Hi sambwoy,

Just seen your topic on flaking transfers. They certainly don't adhere well to matt or textured surfaces, new or old.

One thing which holds for even the freshest of transfers is that the surface they are to be applied to should be gloss varnished. Once the transfers are dry and at least 24 hours later, spray over them with matt varnish or whatever varnish suits the finish of the model you are working on. This will make them more durable.

Not for the faint-hearted is removal of the carrier film over the transfers. (This technique only works on transfers applied to a glossy, flat surface and I can only be sure it works with Modelmaster products):
In this case, once the transfers are dry, take a small piece of low-tack masking tape and touch a corner of the carrier film near your transfer (carrier film is the thin varnish coating over the transfer). If there is good adhesion to the model, as you peel the carrier film gently away, it will leave the lettering behind, giving a 'factory' finish and none of the 'silvering' effect caused by leaving the carrier film in place. If the lettering does start to lift off with the carrier film - don't panic! Stop and gently lat the film back onto the model. Any loosened transfers can be fixed to a surface with a very small dab of dilute varnish applied with a fine brush at the corner of the carrier film.

But if all goes well, you will end up with a superior looking model, but do varnish under and over your tranfers in any event.

Hope that helps.

Colin Parks
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Torrington
post 25 Mar 2010, 04:13
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HI
I had the same thing happen to me with a set of Fox transfers, I was repainting a GWR grange into a late BR one at the time.
When it came round to lining the kit, I found that the transfers just broke up, took me hours to put the lining back together on the loco.
Did it in the end, even tried to stop them braking up by using warm water, but this did not make any difference at all.
When you are putting ant transfers on to any thing it has to be smooth and on top of a thin coat of gloss varnish, this helps the transfers to fix.
I have heard of transfers having a sell by date ,would be nice if they did put dates on them when they are first packed ,but we can only hope.
As said above decal fix will help a lot, but you do have to seal them with varnish afterwards, it also helps if you use a spray varnish as the fixing coat first.
Then you can use a matt coat afterwards safely.
All the best
Darren
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Graham Plowman
post 25 Mar 2010, 05:32
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Lots of good hints here! Completely forgot about the Humbrol decal fixer product!

Personally, when I have 'problem transfers', I apply some varnish to the model, I soak the transfer in water and then lay the transfer on the varnish while it is still wet by which time, the transfer backing will peel away. The transfer will float on the surface water until it is pressed down upon which, the varnish holds it in place. A cloth is then used to absorb the water and then varnish is applied over the top. Sometimes, the transfer moves, but the varnish will dry fairly quickly and hold the transfer in place.

I once had to use the above technique when lining a WR brown and cream O gauge MK1 coach: the lining consisted of two different colours: firstly, I applied the black and varnished it cm by cm as it kept breaking up. Then I applied the gold on top of that and varnished it. The coach has a band of lining above and below the windows on both sides. It took a whole afternoon to do one line - 2 days for the lot. These were Kemco transfers from Home of O Gauge. I bought the transfers new, so suspect they were already 'life expired' given that they kept breaking up into 1cm long strips.

Graham Plowman


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Colin Parks
post 25 Mar 2010, 20:04
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Hmm, the 'flaky transfer' problem seems to be quite common!
On reflection, I did have more trouble than expected with some transfers for my 2 BIL EMU recently. They were defintely not a new batch, just some the supplier had on a shelf. So perhaps shelves aren't the best place for them to be kept! Perhaps someone out there knows the best way of storing transfers?!

Colin Parks
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