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> Airfix Booth Rodley crane, A project to build one and Rebuild a second of these iconic kits
58herbie
post 5 Jun 2010, 07:08
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sorry to jump the thread, does anybody know of any kits to build the LMS steam crane as manufactured by Cowans Sheldon of Carlisle as i am basing my layout here around the citadel and upperby shed.

thanks

jon
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Grifter_Guru
post 5 Jun 2010, 07:57
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58herbie

Your not "jumping in on the thread", so don't worry about it. (natural progression and all that..)

Have a look at modifying the hornby 75ton crane, also you might want to have a look at captain beetroot's picassa photo's as he hasmodified a hornby 75 ton crane (which I have to do twice over soon!).

Not sure if a kit for the C/S crane exists, but the hornby crane may indeed be a good basis from which to start. Maybe try brass masters though............

I'm sure, infact almost certain that Richard (of DCC Concepts) will speak up on the matter.


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reddo
post 5 Jun 2010, 14:41
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I finally managed to dig out my Airfix Booth Rodley crane - painted as per the instructions back in 1993 (when I didnt know any better). Plus all the other Airfix kits I had built that were packed in the box - apologies for the incorrect paint detailing/shades. The goods rolling stock were all made from kits I bought from an old chap at the Pudsey Train Fair one weekend - he had had an attic clearout and had dozens of them on his stand for a 1 each - not many people were interested in them back then - now you will see them on ebay for between 3-5 each...suggestions on how to re-seal the curling decals appreciated - I think there is a decal softener you can buy - does it work on pre-fixed decals? Or maybe I'll just buy the ones mentioned earlier in this thread...















All a bit bonkers really...
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Grifter_Guru
post 5 Jun 2010, 14:50
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Nice collection reddo !!

As to the decal issue, you may want to have a look at humbrol's (now part of hornby) "Decal Fix". Apply with a sable brush, allow decal a few seconds to soften and then carefully lay them flat against the surface again.

Alternatively, I may have a spare set shortly if Dapol supply them with the booth crane kits. I bought two Dapol booth rodley kits for a spares base, so fingers crossed. If there are any, you are welcome to a set.

Wouldn't mind one of them blue circle cement wagons, thy are very smart!


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reddo
post 5 Jun 2010, 15:04
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Cheers GG - thats the stuff I was thinking of - thanks.

Yes - the Airfix Blue Circle Presflo cement wagons are very nice - I was in production mode with these kits building batches at a time. Now I have bought an airbrush, I will start by weathering these wagons, adding some weight, and changing the wheels to metal ones. The Decal fix will also come in handy for the Esso tankers that are starting to crack as well - it's been a long time coming that job. It will be fun shunting them around with the Beattie Well Tank when it arrives later this year...and my Bachmann Class 08 shunters...

BTW - you should be able to find the BC Presflos on ebay - esp if someone is selling a few...
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Grifter_Guru
post 5 Jun 2010, 15:35
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hehe, I use that decal fix for all sort of things reddo just as I also use clear fix in weathering too (slightly thinned of course). It's good for use in weathering, but I won't spoil your fun of finding out how by telling you (not just yet anyway) tongue.gif lmfao.gif

Ebay. eeeeeeeugh, I'm trying to keep away from there. Since October last around 3K has gone through ebay from my back pocket.


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upnick
post 5 Jun 2010, 15:38
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QUOTE (Grifter_Guru @ 5 Jun 2010, 16:35) *
Ebay. eeeeeeeugh, I'm trying to keep away from there. Since October last around 3K has gone through ebay from my back pocket.


Nice to see someone has money to splash around in this recession mad.gif


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Grifter_Guru
post 5 Jun 2010, 15:44
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Thats not a normal amount for me in that short space of time. It's just that a fair old amount of stuff came through that was needed for projects. Usually I don't even spend that in a year, let alone within a 9 month period.


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upnick
post 5 Jun 2010, 15:50
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QUOTE (Grifter_Guru @ 5 Jun 2010, 16:44) *
Thats not a normal amount for me in that short space of time. It's just that a fair old amount of stuff came through that was needed for projects. Usually I don't even spend that in a year, let alone within a 9 month period.



Not how it came across in your posting GG mad.gif


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reddo
post 5 Jun 2010, 16:03
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Indeed - Ebay can be a dangerous place to be.

Having said that, my regime now is whatever I need to spend has to be funded by selling some of my older non-DCC stock, and old rolling stock bought from Toyfairs since the early 90's when I knew little of all the brands. Sold about 5 qty 3-coach sets of Limas about a month ago wich raised the money form my 12 Fulgurex motors. No credit card bills afterwards either. Was going to sell a 7-coach set of Airfix GMR coaches but have held back as they will go well with my Stanier 4MT's etc

Purchases now are very tightly controlled and there is as much pleasure from a set of pre-owned mint Intercity Swallow coaches as a new DCC loco.My six cents
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Joesef
post 17 Jun 2010, 14:06
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The Airfix wagons and such, do they run out the box when there built, i was under the impression they did not run well at all? im new to airfix builds and have a few to do, any tips./suggestions could help.

by the way the Cranes in this thread look awesome. i have a Hornby one somewhere....
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Grifter_Guru
post 17 Jun 2010, 14:40
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Joesef.....The advice I personally would give, is to take your time, check each joint in a "dry build" manner (I.E, hold parts together without glue) to check fit and remedy as required with either a swiss needle file or fine wet and dry sandpaper on a dead flat surface.

The wagons, cranes and other "railway" orientated kits all "run" (as you put it) well if built to a good standard using time, care and attention to detail.

As an example take the body for the crane, as per this picture.



The right hand side panel (nearest to camera in the pic) and the rear body panel were offered together to check for fit along the joint line. Both parts required a little light "tuning" first with a few light strokes of a flat swiss needle file finished off with wet and dry sandpaper on a dead flat surface (a ceramic hob top in this case) before a satisfactory joint was achieved. The joints on that body section are now invisible thanks to a little patience, a little work and a little time. It helped that they were placed on a dead flat surface for final drying overnight too.

As with any kit, time, patience and skill all play a part. The longer you spend working on the kit ensuring good joints and ensuiring that parts fit to one another properly, the better the finished kit will be.
Another, often overlooked factor, is that of when to paint each section or part. Experience will most likely give an indication of what to paint and when as well as what section of any part not to paint, such as that of areas to be glued to another, which is what "Dry building" is for, at least in part.

As to the rolling stock (prestwin silo's, Blue circle wagons et al) You may want to add an ounce or two of weight to them. I usually use the stick on wheel weights used for alloy wheels and available from a local tyre fitters. Other than this, my experience has always been that the wagons have run well, especially once the plastic wheels are ditched in favour of a metal set.

Other things I personally do are:

1) Always use a good quality glue. There is the likes of the revel glue with it's needle like applicator, Humbrol's liquid poly as well as many, many more. All have their various uses.
2) Take My Time. Nothing ruins a kit more than rushing the build.
3) Plan Ahead which parts I am going to build and how. Substructures can be easier to handle if built appropriately.
4) STUDY THE INSTRUCTIONS. Read, read and re-read the instructions to familiarise myself to the sequence of build. I usually define which sections can be built as sub-structures from the instructions and work from that point on.
5) Familiarise myself with the prototype. If/where possible, I always seek information on the prototype version of the kit I intend to build as this information will aid the build, allow the addition of missing, or the correction of incorrect details as well as give an idea as to the finish of the prototype versions livery.


HTH,

Ron


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reddo
post 17 Jun 2010, 14:46
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Joesef - the Airfix wagons will run fine based on 3 things...

1. When you build the chassis/frames, do it on something flat and hard eg an old pice of glass to make sure its square/flat
2. Use metal wheels / axles in lieu of the plastic ones.
3. Add weight eg a pice of lead/steel, lead shot etc inside the bodies

That should make a big improvement. I have fixed several wagons in fixed formations using chain links etc which looks better than std coupling but shunting around curves can be a problem (buffer interlock)
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Grifter_Guru
post 17 Jun 2010, 14:59
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Reddo, try a piece of handrail type wire glued between the buffer heads. Tends to cure buffer lock pretty instantly IME.


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Instructions ? WHAT?!?!?! A man don't need instructions! Oh............wait a minute...........................What's this bit for?
Exemplar quo vides & exemplar veri
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Signalling Memory Lane - The Detailed discussion Topic Q&A + Going Loopy with points
ViTrains: Class 37 "How-To"
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Joesef
post 17 Jun 2010, 15:35
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wow guys thanks for the quick response, hope you dont mind since im new to this i do have a few other questions i do have some small swizz style files already

1) i used to build airfix cars and planes when i was younger... i have alot of the small tins of paint in hundreds of colors, this may be ok for small sections of the model put i feel like i would achieve a much better result from a aerosol can, having used these a lot in other applications, however where and what types are best to use on the models, i fear some types will melt or deform the plastic. any info would be great.

2)wheels axles and couplings, also somewhere to buy these from, im yet to have a big enough collection to have a odds and ends draw which i could use. so somewhere to get these prom would also help.

thanks guys sorry for the thread hi-jack. once again
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