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> Bachmann Class 108 DMU
nightcrawler
post 26 Jun 2010, 16:09
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Hi Guys

I am picking up the new Bachmann Class 108 dmu this Monday & was told by the guys in the model shop that this loco/unit needs two DCC chips fitted, one in the power car with a another fitter in the non power car as this in needed to make the lights work in that unit.
I was just wondering if this is true does both the powered and unpowered parts of Bachmann Class 108 DMU take DCC Chips?

Thank you Norman
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BobB
post 26 Jun 2010, 16:31
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In my class 108 dmu, I fitted two decoders, programmed with the same address to make the lights work properly. An alternative solution is to replace the supplied interconnecting coupling with a non detachable coupling (I use a bent paper clip or hair grip in a drilled hole) and two very thin wires to operate the lights off of the motor's decoder.

The choice is yours. Question is, how would either solution work on one of the three car 108's ?
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K9-70
post 26 Jun 2010, 16:37
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That's correct, if it's a two car 108 dmu you'll need two decoders, one for controlling the power car and the other for the lights in the trailer car.

Eg; Power car, Bachmann three function 36-553 or suitable decoder of your choice.
Trailer car, Lenz LF101XF Function only decoder or an accessory decoder of your choice.

K9-70
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nightcrawler
post 26 Jun 2010, 16:40
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Hi Guys
Thank you for your quick reply.
Could you please tell me if there is a DCC Socket in both the power & non power car or do you have to hard wire the lights in the non power unit? If there is a socket in each unit, i will do the same as you two decoders with same addy.
Thanks again
Norman
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BobB
post 26 Jun 2010, 16:54
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There is a socket in both cars. For the trailer I used an N guage small size decoder and put it in the WC compartment so that it could not be seen.
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Doddsy
post 26 Jun 2010, 17:09
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QUOTE (BobB @ 26 Jun 2010, 16:31) *
The choice is yours. Question is, how would either solution work on one of the three car 108's ?


I might be being a bit thick here...

Surely, the middle car won't need running lights and so there is an advantange, simplicity wise, in having a second decoder in the trailer. They only cost around a tenner - or you may find a sound decoder to fit... it not now, then later smile.gif

Cheers

Ian

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BobB
post 26 Jun 2010, 17:38
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In the two car 108's the lights are also on inside the carriage so you can see the (hopefully) painted interior and the passengers. I presume interior lights are also available in a centre car if you buy the three car version.
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SRman
post 27 Jun 2010, 00:27
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Correct. If one wishes to save money and fit only two decoders to a three car set, the lights in the centre coach would be permanently on in DCC operation.

Also, if you wish to save money, use one (or two for a three car unit) of the Hornby or Bachmann "cheapie" decoders (available for less than 10 UK Pounds) as a function-only decoder, but use a good quality decoder for the powered coach - it's worth it for the better running qualities.
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nightcrawler
post 29 Jun 2010, 06:34
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Hi Guys

I picked up my DMU up last night and fitted the two decoders. The model looks great with all its light and fine details but i found as i run it the lights in one or the other cars kept going off, if the unit was left stopped in the station the lights would stay on without any problems. I think the problem is as it go's over my insulated points the decoder loses power for a split second and loses the light on setting .
My question is is there a CV setting for the light that will make them stop on untill I switch them off via the handset even when power is lost.

Thanks Norman smile.gif
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The Sound Man
post 30 Jun 2010, 06:13
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Here's my new Bachmann DMU 108 with Howes sound fitted, it has two speakers fitted to it.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SVbh5NPBZso
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BVM
post 30 Jun 2010, 08:12
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The problem I have had with my Class 108's is that they (I have two) will not go down a grade smoothly.

I am told I need to remove the capacitors-but the circuit board on these is full of surface mount components under the floor and it is not clear what is what.

Anyone else had this problem and solved it?
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The Sound Man
post 30 Jun 2010, 16:01
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QUOTE (BVM @ 30 Jun 2010, 08:12) *
The problem I have had with my Class 108's is that they (I have two) will not go down a grade smoothly.

I am told I need to remove the capacitors-but the circuit board on these is full of surface mount components under the floor and it is not clear what is what.

Anyone else had this problem and solved it?


Is it fitted with sound chip?
I have no probs with mine see vid.
Perhaps its the dcc chip?
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BobB
post 30 Jun 2010, 18:47
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I had a problem initially with the two car 108 going down my rather steep incline. In one direction the trailer carriage jerked very badly. In the other direction it wasn't to bad but still not perfect. I cured it by cutting a small piece of foam rubber and squeezing it between the axle and bogie frame top to act as a brake. The trailer was always then being pushed or pulled against the brake and ran very smoothly !
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Grumpy
post 30 Jun 2010, 19:24
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That descent problem sounds like the BEMF setting.
Have a look at the BEMF CV and reduce the setting.
The chip instructions should give you some figures to work from.


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If it ain't broke you're not driving it hard enough.
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Richard Johnson
post 1 Jul 2010, 03:15
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*** Such a problem more often than not has nothing to do with back EMF really... although bobs solution and reducing the level of back EMF reaction may calm it down, it'll not fix it.

Jerkiness on a gradient is usually a symptom of too much end float/slop in the worm shafts at the top of the power bogies. This translates to a bit of jerkiness as it hits the ends of its range and as this quite suddely momentarily brakes and releases the mass of the drive vehicle this translates to any attached dummy vehicle.

The real solution is to remove this slop by adding a thin phosphor bronze washer or similar to the end of the shaft between the end bearing and the worm.

Norman: On the subject of lights flickering there is no CV setting that covers light loss/random on/off prevention. The answer is called "flickerfree" - there are several threads already showing its use. Next layout you might want to consider moving to electrofrog - that loss of power with insulfrog is very frustrating and you will really start to notice it when sound becomes important to you....

regards

Richard


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