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> BMR Workbench, Various kits, scratch builds... ect...
Bluebellmodelrai...
post 12 Aug 2012, 11:17
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Hello been a while since Ive posted on the forums, so seeing as most work now isn't layout based I would open up a Workbench thread of kit building / Bodging, scratch building ect... as most of what Im doing at the moment is kit bashing.

The first major attempt I posted on here was back in 2010, and I hope one day it will feature in a magazine... i say hope as it has been 2 years but had a good reply recently... so shall wait and see on that one.

http://www.modelrailforum.com/forums/index...mp;#entry163576


First major project was my BR Hornby Q1, I always wanted an SR Q1 but was only able to get a BR one, which is a good thing as it has the lubricator on it. I searched for over a year for a replacement body but as most will know thats not easy. So I decided to set to work and do it myself by modifying the Q1.

Q1 repairs and a small conversion from BR to SR

So on to the next project, all be only took a couple of days and was pretty straight forward. As some will know I’ve been looking for a spare Body of a Q1 but an SR type to turn it in to SR Q1, C1… Sadly I have been searching for one for 2 years…. And knowing finding one would be pretty much impossible it turned out it was… I found one, but the price it was offered to me at was more than a new one from ebay… which I gave serious thought to buying another…
And then lightening struck my brain... after mailing 28 or so Hornby suppliers and service people.. one said they had a complete body but a BR one… I said keep it back just incase as a last resort…

Anyway securing this I purchased the spare, and went about changing the original body as they were both the same number, I must have been having a good day!
First Job, was to remove the smoke box number, and the additional molding on the smoke box so it would look the same as the SR type, and in my view makes the front end look tidier and neater.

To do this job I used some small dremel bits to slowly file way the molding on the smoke box door, I must add very carefully as there are various lamp irons on the front, I removed all the hand rails to gain better access to the front.
I then cleaned up the front with some fine wet and dry sand paper, added the hand rails back on, and masked off the rest of the body and gave it a couple of coats of Halfords matt black paint… and it came out pretty well, and better than I expected.



Now the major part was out the way… the slightly easier part was next!
Renumbering, many are not sure how to do it, or don’t want to damage their locos which I can fully understand!
So I thought to help a few who may be interested I’ll do a small write up on how it’s done!
1. Firstly, to remove the transfer, to remove it you will need a cotton bud, and you can either use, T-Cut, or enamel thinners.

- Note, Hornby locos numbers are generally hard to get off, so time and patience is needed. Bachmann locos their transfers aren’t as strong so you won’t need to much liquid on the cotton bud.
- You can use masking tape to surround the area you are working on, thus not effecting any lining ect…




2. I apply a small amount of T-Cut to the transfer, for this I’m doing the tender first, The reason for doing this it should hopefully make it easier to come off once the liquid has soaked in.


3. Use the cotton bud to rub the transfer out, it should slowly fade away, some reasonable pressure may be required depending how good they have been applied, as mentioned Bachmann ones are a lot easier to remove so be cautious! Painted Hornby locos, the paint is usually well applied, and does not budge easily, but care is still needed.





4. A light mark where the transfer was maybe visible after cleaning off the remainder of the liquid. Also worth noting the area where you are removing the transfer will be probably shiny what ever fluid you use to remove the transfer.
After removing the BR emblem and the number from the cab-side, clean the surfaces off, you may want to use a light spray of Satin Varnish I usually use Vallejo.



5. After a light spray of Vallejo satin varnish, we are ready to start applying the new transfers. Use HMRS Press fix transfers, they are easy to use and are not like waterslides, as the transfer is sticky back so it stays in position when water is applied.
Mark out where you are putting your transfer, and make sure it is inline and in a central position. With the Q1 the tender transfer needs to be level with the Cab number so it’s in a line. I marked out on the tend the line on which it would go on and also a centre point so the transfer was in the middle of the tender. The marking was done with a very light / soft pencil which can be removed once the transfer is in place.



6. The transfers I shall use is the Southern Bullied sunshine livery numbers and insignia for the Q1. Lightly with a craft knife score around the Southern or number you require.




7. Before taking the transfer off the backing paper, mark the middle of the transfer so to line it up with the centre line marked on the tender. Lift up the end of the transfer with a craft knife, and with tweezers remove from the backing paper.




8. Gently position the transfer on the tender roughly, you can still maneuver the transfer to the ideal position. Once your happy with its position, press firmly on the transfer to fix it in position. Add water to the backing paper, let the water soak in I usually apply the water with a paint brush and spread it around the backing paper. The paper will then loosen and come away from the transfer.






9. Depending on how you want your loco to look with its finish, you can add another light coat of Satin Vallejo varnish or a Light Matt Coat or Varnish, I did a light coat of both, which sealed the transfers in so they will not come off.



After the transfers I then went about repairing any damage that had occurred over the few years I have had the loco. This mainly comprised of Lamp irons missing from the front and rear.
I made some new ones from some very small split pins / cotter pins, which I bent with some pliers and cut them to the appropriate length.
These were then glued in place… and shouldn’t be going anywhere seeing as there made of metal and not plastic. They were painted with Humbrol Matt Black.



All that was left to do was add some route discs front and rear and then it was complete and ready to take it to the layout for its photos to be taken… and even if I did sell it… at least I got a spare body!






And on the layout…. And a before and after

Before…


After…





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Bluebellmodelrai...
post 12 Aug 2012, 11:18
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June 2012

A smaller project, Building a Resin Brake van from Smallbrook junction Studio, based on the Isle of Wight.

The kit, an LSWR 10 Ton Brake van, (Road van), costing £20. The kit comes with everything you need to build it, Chassis, wheels, couplings. The older version of this kit you would of needed to cut down a dapol chassis... but this one comes with a cast resin type.



You get 2 - 3 pages of instructions for the kit, read them carefully especially regarding the roof... which is cut smaller due to the gutters on the van being cast in to the body moulding.
This is what you get in the kit:



To start the body was constructed on the chassis, parts will need cleaning up, and filing to get them square and fit together. You may / may not need to clean the parts before constructing. The kit can be glued together with normal super glue, Brass rods for the handles and hand rails are provided. 0.5mm i think i used to drill the holes in to fit the rails.
2.5 mm holes are drilled in the buffer beams to fit the cast buffers to the body. You can see the primary roof test fitted, this will keep the 2nd roof (some styrene sheet) in shape over the main structure.




,After painting started, I used some Satin Humrol red (174) for the buffer beam, then Matt Black for the chassis, and I already had some LSWR Brown which appeared to be the right shade. Try and apply thin coats to the main van body, as the casting has the wood texture cast in to it.

This is the first coats being applied:




The internal body was painted with acrylic brown, and the body given a protector coat of satin varnish. The hand rails will be painted white.



The transfers were applied next, these are from HMRS, SR, LSWR, LBSCR Goods transfers, which i use on most builds I do.



After this the transfers were sealed in with a coat of matt acrylic varnish, next came the roof, this was spray painted white and also brushed to give it texture, you can also try another method gluing a sheet of toilet paper on the roof to give it texture as well. after this was dry from painting, it was time to glue it on the van body.

Using super glue and a few elastic bands to spread the tension across the roof so you don't get ripples when gluing the roof on to the body which worked well for me, I also put a sheet of plasticard under the van so not to damage the steping boards on the underframe.




Rain strips and chimney were fitted to the roof after, and then painted by hand with matt white paint.






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Bluebellmodelrai...
post 12 Aug 2012, 11:23
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July 2009

This scratch build was done around 2009, as kits were rare at this point in time for an SR B4 which worked around Southampton docks. I then decided it was possible to convert a RTR loco, which came out not to badly... so much so someone pinched the idea which was in Model Rail a few months back... so much for helping people. Heres how i made mine.....


Recently, I was looking around to do a small project just to keep my brain ticking over as i don't like sitting round with nothing to do. I Decided to do a small loco conversion. First task was to get hold of a 0-4-0, GWR Holden Tank, which you can get off ebay pretty cheap less than £10.

I got one a couple of weeks ago for about £7 off ebay.



When I recieved it I started drawing out plans to see if what i wanted to do was possible. I decided it was so i started to go about sawing it up. The loco it was going to be converted in to was LSWR, B4 Tank, number 97 Normandy, which worked around southampton docks before going to the Bluebell where its currently out of ticket, awaiting overhaul.

The cuts i made was from behind the smokebox, the tanks and the cab, but leaving the part of the cab where the clips fit in to, to hold the body in place. All was left was the smokebox, and footplate.

I had several spares around to do this project, I had spares from an old mainline J72 which was broken. Again i sawed off the boiler section and removed the it from the water tanks. I then fixed this to the smokebox, then with spare plasticard I made up some side tanks to glue on to the loco. I also made a type of firebox near the cab due to the size of the motor and the angel of it. I also had to make a Adam's safety valve from plasticard also on top of this. I took the old J72 chimley and glued it on to the smokeboax of the Hornby one at this time I removed the plastic moulded hand rails moulded on to it.





As you can see it was test fitted to the chassis to make sure everything cleared and fitted perfectly.

After this i pinched the back head from the hornby tank and glued that in place thus hiding the motor from view, I then set about making the cab front and back, the B4's had a cut away cab at the front and back with only one small window in the middle at the front and back this was to aid vision whilst shunting.




This again was made from plasticard, and refiller caps were added to the tanks from the J72.
The loco was then filed and filled where it was needed, to create a smoother surface for primer to be applied. Before this what needed to be done was to construct small tool boxes either side of the smoke box, and on top of the water tanks. This was made out of thinner plasticard. After completion the loco was primed and vacum pipes added prior to painting.




First coats of Matt Black halfords paint were applied in total 5 coats were applied and left to dry. Happy with this finished I then painted the bufferbeams red, and finished the vacume pipes. Whilst still in the primed stage I added hand rails to the side of the smoke box, with lleft overs from various projects, and used guitar string for the hand rail itself. At the cab I used a paper clip as the hand rail / Cab supports. A small hand rail was added at the back of the cab.





Fast things todo was to finish painting, tidy up test Varnish stages. The transfers to be used was Bulleid Loco transfers sadly no Alphabet transfer sheets are available to get in that style to do the Normandy name on the side of the loco. Instead it will be Southern shinshine lettering, with the number 96.





The above pictures taken before the varnish stages, the varnish chosen was Railmatch as this didn't react with halfords paint. 3 - 4 coats of matt varnish was put on and left to dry overnight. Heres the finished artical before it goes on the layout for tomorrow.





Any comments welcome as always biggrin.gif


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Brian Considine
post 12 Aug 2012, 11:27
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Excellent work Matt - especially the Q1 (one of my alltime favourite UK locomotives).

Good write up on how it was done too - thanks.
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Bluebellmodelrai...
post 12 Aug 2012, 11:44
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July 2012

Just before my layout was photographed end of June, I picked a project I had not looked at in a while. 2 years ago I started work on the L&NWR observation car, the Bluebell runs this quite often so I thought it would be a good addition to the fleet and also a good addition to coach sets as it usually runs on the end of trains or on its own during Auturm or spring.

The original coach I started on was an old Hornby / Triang coach base, the body made of plasticard... I got to a point where I became lost and not sure how to carry on... so it was shelved. I attempted to pick it up again at the beginning of June to finish it for the Photo session but again shelved it.

After I realized if it was to work i would have to start again... but using a different method. After much searching I devised a different way of producing this unique coach.

Heres what stage it got to before...


The sides were removed as they became warped and bent. This left just the ends of the coach to start again. This project now is the latest to re-start and is doing much better this time round....

................................................................................
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July 2012

Just before the end of June I took the decision to scrap what I had done on the LNWR Observation car... A few keep asking for progress and for those who are a member of the Facebook Group or follow on Titter or even visit the website they will know that its been progressing quite well as of late... and it is now quite close to the painting stage.

Why start again?
The project to build the LNWR observation coach started 2 - 3 years ago, most of the body was made from Plasticard, and the coach chassis being an old Hornby Triang maunsell coach which was modified to take the body. The project has been off an on for quite a while, the main sides and front and back of the coach were in place... but as I mentioned before our skill levels and expectation as to how it will look when complete changed... and I quickley became un-happy with what I had done. I took this decision just before a photo session for a Model magazine as I was attempting to complete it before then... with time and work against me... and after looking at it... I took it appart just leaving the chassis and the 2 ends.

After the first attempt to build it entirely out of plasticard I noticed some issues which occured over time... due to the inactivity on the project the sides of the coach had bowed and were no longer parralle or straight... so I needed a new way of doing the sides. As well as this the mouldings and the doors.. were proving difficault.

After researching I came across the LNWR ratio kits.... and this got me thinking... the smaller windows were roughly the same size as the previous one I had built 12mm, I then went about planning how many LNWR coach lits i would need to... ruin... to make the coach. In all x3 would be needed. I brought 2 kits to start with to get a feel if what I planned worked... this cost around £20 for 2 kits. The kits I used were the Ratio LNWR Corridor Composite 732, These were cut down and some windows that were too bit were cut down and glued back together.



The doors from the kits were also used on the coach sides, as well as some of the mouldings... even though most of them will be made from 10/000 plasticard.. which should be fun.




The various mouldings along the side of the coach and the front was made using strips of 10/000 Plasticard, I decided to try and keep this simple, as each corner of the mouldings have rounded edges... I could of done this if I went and got each part Laser cut but prefered to try and do it myself rather than taking the short cut and the easy route... this started in Mid June, and have only just completed it.




The top opening windows on the LNWR coach I decided to do a different way, the Ratio kits, above the windows had vents.... so I decided to remove them creating an opening for the top windows, I made the openings by drilling a series of 4mm holes and the cutting them out with a craft knife. The window will be made from 10/000, 4.5mm stips with the window cut out and glued over the to, with liquid poly.




And this is how they look after the window plasticard is fitted...



The roof came from Dart Castings, and was a curved piece of Aluminum, I also purchased the roof vents from them too, 2940: TORPEDO VENTILATORS (SHORT LATER TYPE - LNER,SR,LMS,BR). the roof was covered with 2 layers of Plasticard, 10/000, this will eventually be painted white.



The bogies were also modified, changed the old couplings to the smaller NEM couplings to enable close coupling and generally a better appearence.


More details on the coach body were added yesterday, hand rails and various pipe work along the sides, and the south facing end of the coach, the bigger pipes were made with Nickle plated copper wire, and the hand rails with old guitar strings. The buffers on the Hornby / Triang chassis were the wrong type, with the Ratio kits came the correct buffers in cast White metal.






The roof fitting and getting it seated correctly is still on going, as well as getting it to join neatly at the ends.



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Bluebellmodelrai...
post 12 Aug 2012, 11:45
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August 2012

As the dry weather continues, work continues at a pace to finally get this project complete after 2 years of being put on the shelf, whilst other kits jumped ahead of it.

On FB group, It was spotted on an image I posted i was still using the Bogies that came with the original coach, I mainly did this to keep running reliable... after a bit of thought, I could see there point so decided to change them. As mentioned I had 3 LNWR coach kits by Ratio i simply took the bogie parts and constructed them add a few bits to them to make them rigid as I alwas found the Ratio bogies quite poor and easy to brake... these how ever seemed to work ok! I added the NEM couplings to them and fitted the Hornby wheels as the larger plastic type I didn't like.

The bigger job was moving the location of the mounting point on the underside of the coach. This ment grinding / sanding off the old and moving the new mounting point 3mm forward towards the end of the coaches... Despite alot of work it makes the coach look alot better.




Some smaller additions and changes were made to the coach before the weekend, a small step was put in under each door, the pipe that runs along the side of the main chassis just under the body was adjusted slightly to copy the originals, also a small change to the underframe, was the underframe trussing which was the cut down from the doner coach.... but I wasn't happy so this got taken off and replaced friday night and looks alot better, and about in propourtion to the underframe on the original... all be some of the Boxes ect are probably in the wrong place... but I will have to comprimise on that.

So that was the last changes to be made before painting begins, Primer went on yesterday and any gaps were filled and smoothed out, and painting started last night.

Heres a few pictures of the final coach before Priming and painting began:






Coach primed ready:





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Bluebellmodelrai...
post 12 Aug 2012, 11:46
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Ok after the last couple of says Ive made a few small changes and a little more progress..

Main changes are at the each end of the coach, Ive added a bit of plasticard to the thinner end plastic along the top where the roof sits on, as previously it was part of the roof. Took a couple of hours to do and fit as it required some filler.

The coach itself has been in the painting stages for a couple of days now, and the main Dark Plum colour has been applied to the coach, white areas are still yet to be applied around the mouldings. The interior has been painted with acrylic paint, The seats still need to be worked on which I will probably start on tomorrow.
The exterior of the coach will be painted with P379 LNWR Coach Plum, and P380 LNWR Coach White




The roof has now been completed, adding the rain strips, which were done with 0.40mm X .50mm plasticard Strip, brought from Model Dock Yard, and the pack contains 10 strips. These were glued on with Liquid poly, by Humbrol.



Also added were the destination board holders are fitted on the side of the roof using bits of plasticard strip to mount the boards on to, I will make the boards probably after the coach is completed which will read: (L&NWR) OBSERVATION CAR BETWEEN LLANDUDNO , BETTWS-Y-COED & BLAENAU-FESTINIOG





The roof was then painted with some Humbrol White spray paint.





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Davo
post 12 Aug 2012, 13:24
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Nice work! thumbsup.gif It should look very impressive when completed.
The colours remind me of the livery of the old Edinburgh trams.
Would it be possible to post some pictures of how you do the lining when the time comes?

I am curious to discover the purpose of the long tube which seems to wrap itself around the coach just below the bodywork?
I have been trying to figure it out. Pictures of the 1:1 scale unit did not help . . .
I just had another look at some images of the coach on Google and it appears that the tubing is only on one side of the coach, so now I am even more puzzled. Can you shed any light on it? question.gif
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Bluebellmodelrai...
post 12 Aug 2012, 14:08
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Afternoon Davo

I was told once when I enquired about it, it was for electrics but Im not 100% sure this is correct, on Overhaul photos I can see wires coming out of it... so possibly Im not 100% sure...

Thanks for reminding me on the lining... I may do a more simple version so im just getting the main paint done, then I shall tackle that, Transfers have been made for the sides already so ill probably just use some cut down pressfix lining.


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Bluebellmodelrai...
post 14 Aug 2012, 14:40
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Progress has been concert rating on the completion of the painting on the main coach body. Adding the white paint around the moldings of the coach. The lower panels still need a small amount of lining around the edges, Which i hope will be done by the end of the week.



Work has mostly been concentrated on the Transfers of the LNWR coat of arms / Logo, and the numbers. Whilst doing this I also started doing work on the running / destination boards.

I basically started out using a number of images I took over the years when I visited the Bluebell doing a little research on the coach itself.
I took the images and selected the part I required. I used Photo studio for this.




After selecting the parts I needed I then measured where the logos / numbers would go and made the size on photo studio, then reduced the size of the image to match this. I repeated this process for the numbers and running boards / Destination boards. I was using the blank ones which came with the Hornby Maunsell coaches.



When I had everything the correct size, I then made a small page of transfers, numbers, destination boards, and logos... I did a number of test prints to get the correct size, and finally settled on 250dpi.



I used Crafty computer paper White backed transfer paper. These work the same way as water slides, and can be used with Laser and Ink-jets.. you must select what type of paper for your particular printer. I use a Laser printer, you print on the shiny side of the paper. When printed you simply cut around the transfer / image and soak it in water.



They are then applied to the body where you need them... there maybe a white edge to the transfer due to the colour of the paper being a white back rather than clear. You can use the paint to just blend the transfer in to the surrounding area. The transfers are then sealed in with Acrylic varnish.







There is still some transfers to be added around the lower panels around the edges... this will be done to wards the end of the week... and then the interior can be then done.



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Rhiwderin_Ray
post 14 Aug 2012, 16:05
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That coach looks excellent ! Well done and thanks for showing us how to modify such kits.


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Ray


See some of my builds at "Ray's Building Site" http://www.modelrailforum.com/forums/index...showtopic=20857 at "On My Workbench" section of this forum.

My new layout BELMONT
http://www.modelrailforum.com/forums/index...showtopic=21976

"Knowledge is of no value unless shared with others"
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Bluebellmodelrai...
post 14 Aug 2012, 16:41
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Thanks Ray.

Trust me i learnt the hard way haha, least second time round its come out better... I try and share as much as possible incase someone else is mad enough to try it... Thanks for your comment though better get back to lining the lower panels.


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Jack P
post 15 Aug 2012, 13:46
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Looks epic Matt - running out of things to say and how many times to say it! biggrin.gif

- Jack


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- Jack

Modelling the Southern, from the Southern Hemisphere!

'Imbecile!' I wasn't sure if he meant me or Mr Bulleid, But thought it impolite to ask.
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Bluebellmodelrai...
post 15 Aug 2012, 15:30
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Thanks Jack too kind, I appreciate the feedback... like i keep saying on other forums.. If i get comments I'll post... if I don't then I wont post... I can see the topics being looked at but... nothing.

Luckily here I get some comments, good or bad i don't care its something.


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Mercator II
post 16 Aug 2012, 09:35
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WOW thats a lovely coach there Matt

have missed your updates, thanks for sharing these pics, keep up the most excellent work



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Brian

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