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> Loco for pulling Track Cleaner, Can anyone recommend one
Chinahand
post 2 May 2009, 09:39
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I'm looking for a loco to haul a CMX Clean Machine and/or a Tomix Track Cleaner. The general recommendation seems to be that I should use a short diesel/electric loco with at least 6 and preferably 8 wheel drive.

Although I model GWR steam era it looks as though a 'dedicated' track cleaning set up is going to be needed using a diesel type loco. I quite like the look of the new GF Warship but cannot find any detailed specification for it which indicates how many wheels actually drive it.

Does anyone know more about the Warship or can recommend a loco for 'cleaning' duties.


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Thunderbird
post 2 May 2009, 10:27
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off the top of my head I think that my G/Far cl33 is 8 wheel drive. I'm sure that someone will know if it's not.

*If I wasn't at work i'd look at mine*

Can't remember if my dapol c73 is 8w/drive or not.

I'm a bit useless today!
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upnick
post 2 May 2009, 11:49
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QUOTE (Expat @ 2 May 2009, 10:39) *
I'm looking for a loco to haul a CMX Clean Machine and/or a Tomix Track Cleaner. The general recommendation seems to be that I should use a short diesel/electric loco with at least 6 and preferably 8 wheel drive.

Although I model GWR steam era it looks as though a 'dedicated' track cleaning set up is going to be needed using a diesel type loco. I quite like the look of the new GF Warship but cannot find any detailed specification for it which indicates how many wheels actually drive it.

Does anyone know more about the Warship or can recommend a loco for 'cleaning' duties.



Hi Trevor,

I mentioned the loco i use on a similar thread ..... a life like diesel unit such as this E8 http://www.blwnscale.com/Life-Like%20EMD%20E8's.htm conversion to DCC is easy and it pulls my CMX cleaner with the Tomix vacumm car behind well even up gradients with ease.
They are usually some on ebay for a good price around 15-20 ....... here is the DCC conversion http://www.tcsdcc.com/pdf/N_LifeLike_E6A_plastic_M1.pdf takes a minute to download as a pdf though this is an E6 the chassis is the same as the E8 plenty of weight for traction even with the area cut out for the decoder at the back.


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Chinahand
post 2 May 2009, 12:42
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Hi T'bird and thanks for that though I'd be grateful if you would check your locos when you get home.

Thanks to you too Nick. I must admit it hadn't ocurred to me to look at American locos but if nothing else comes up I will definitely have to give it some consideration. It certainly looks a powerful beast with those whopping great fly-wheels.

Why don't GF and Dapol publish spec. sheets then we wouldn't have this problem ?? mad.gif


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upnick
post 2 May 2009, 13:05
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QUOTE (Expat @ 2 May 2009, 13:42) *
Hi T'bird and thanks for that though I'd be grateful if you would check your locos when you get home.

Thanks to you too Nick. I must admit it hadn't ocurred to me to look at American locos but if nothing else comes up I will definitely have to give it some consideration. It certainly looks a powerful beast with those whopping great fly-wheels.

Why don't GF and Dapol publish spec. sheets then we wouldn't have this problem ?? mad.gif



Hi Trevor,

No idea why GF/Dapol dont produce specs it would help modellers a lot more ...... have several of the units here if your having problems finding one PM me should you choose them.


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Doug
post 2 May 2009, 13:29
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I use a pair of Bachmann Class 20's set up as a consist to pull my CMX Clean Machine. Very powerful. I tried a few other locos including a slow moving Bachmann Shay, but they didn't have the power.


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Thunderbird
post 2 May 2009, 17:56
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finally got home and....

the gra/far cl33 is 8 wheel drive

and so is the

dapol cl73

as a side note my gra/far cl 40 is 12 wheel drive

a mate of mine assures me that the gra/far Warship's are 8 wheel drive as well!

hope that's been of help....personally i'd go for the western for your layout even though the cl33 is one of my favourite loco's!
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Chinahand
post 2 May 2009, 18:53
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Thanks T'Bird. You've been a great help.

I take it you mean the Class 52 when you say 'Western'. I will certainly have a look at one but the era is a little late to be able to convincingly incorporate one with all of my GWR steamers. Even the Warship is going to stick out like a sore thumb and will probably be kept out of sight except when on 'experimental' track cleaning duties.

Thanks again for taking the time and trouble to get the information.


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RFT
post 5 May 2009, 08:47
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If you've got no interest or desire to spend money on a model of a specific prototype, why not conside buying a Kato chassis (as they sell seperate 8-wheel-drive generic chassis), or a grafar spare chassis (I think they do them) and just stick as much weight as can be fitted in the loading gauge to it. might be a cheaper, more effective option than paying for a model with a bodyshell you don't actually want.
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Edwin
post 5 May 2009, 10:25
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The Farish GWR diesel railcar has basically the same chassis as all the diesels, and is probably more appropriate to your era. According to the pic on the website it has couplings too.
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Chinahand
post 5 May 2009, 13:49
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Thanks for that Edwin. I do have a GWR Railcar but wanted to have a dedicated set-up for track cleaning which will not be in general use. Anyway I have now ordered a Warship so problem solved. Well almost anyway.

I have a CMX Clean Machine (which is why I need a good, strong pulling loco) but cannot for the life of me find a Tomix N Gauge Track Cleaner. Osborne Models have e-mailed me to say they are OUT OF PRODUCTION at the moment so will just have to be patient I guess.


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upnick
post 5 May 2009, 14:30
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QUOTE
I have a CMX Clean Machine (which is why I need a good, strong pulling loco) but cannot for the life of me find a Tomix N Gauge Track Cleaner. Osborne Models have e-mailed me to say they are OUT OF PRODUCTION at the moment so will just have to be patient I guess.



Hi Trevor,

Try looking for an Atlas cleaner they are the same thing http://www.atlasrr.com/NFreight/ntrackcleaningcar. and made by Tomix for Atlas though the MOW schemes are rather loud on some examples ...... htm http://tinyurl.com/djqejk i presume you know a converter board available from Dapol is needed for it if you intend to use a six pin decoder as opposed to a hardwire install http://www.dapol.co.uk/index.php?option=co...0&Itemid=32
Replacing the contact springs to the track contacts is a good idea while converting to DCC for better performance though not essential.

A call to the Dapol shop confirmed they should have stock the first week of June but dont have the converter board in stock.





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ahammond
post 8 May 2009, 05:15
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The Tomix is virtually impossible to get hold of at the moment but there does seem to be a few knocking about in Germany. I have just bought one from www.microlife-online.com. But I then had to go to modellbahnshop-lippe.com to get a DCC converter plate. Both shops by the way speak good English if you want to telephone them and both were very helpful. Total cost so far has been about 65 not including the chip that I have ordered from Digitrains. I have also had to buy some cleaning fluid from Dapol. But I understand that other firms do a similar product cheaper than them.
A search on Ebay or Google using the description Tomix 6421 may bring up a few more results as I believe there is also a Japanese firm selling it along with a loco in a set for about the same price that I paid.
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Chinahand
post 8 May 2009, 05:20
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Thanks Ahammond.

Yes I did eventually find both of those sources and am now awaiting delivery.

Thanks for the heads up anyway.


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ahammond
post 8 May 2009, 06:14
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One small point about the Tomix. The CL position on the on/off switch, which does not get a mention in the English instructions, is for half power DC use only. Do not use this position when the car is on a fifteen volt DCC powered track. If you do it overheats badly, far worse than when in the normal on position, goes into a huff and will not work for an hour afterwards while it cools down and resets itself. This does not apply when converted to DCC as the switch is binned but I decided to try mine out before conversion and learned the hard way. In fact for a while I thought I had burnt the motor out completely.
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