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McNab
Posted on: 10 Dec 2007, 19:49


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From: Perthshire.
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QUOTE (mikeg @ 10 Dec 2007, 15:17) *
Ian, the ones that run on our club layout go round 5' 6" curves and I have been told they will go round 5' which is what I use, but I am steam era so have not bought one. I have only one 0-6-0 that will not go round my layout and thats a SR Q1 with no side play at all in the chasis, my Q 0-6-0 with play on centre and leading wheels is OK, but none of my Pacifics will as either the bogie or pony derail or sometimes both. My loft is 10' 6" wide hence the 5' radii.

regards

mike g


Many thanks for your help Mike. That's the problem with lofts - mine is 10ft exactly, so my main line has to be 4'8" minimum radius. A quick look at the Heljan 47's bogies should sort me out so I'll try and locate one before I do something foolish!

Best wishes,
  Forum: O scale · Post Preview: #41857 · Replies: 2 · Views: 3,730

McNab
Posted on: 10 Dec 2007, 13:35


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I would be most grateful if anyone could give me some idea of the minimum radius for the Heljan 47. Dealers are vague on this question, and the Heljan website is in a difficult language...

I go down to 4ft minimum, and have no problem with 2-8-0s, 4-6-0s and even long wheelbase tank locomotives, thanks to a little side-play, and where applicable a stainless steel dental wire from chassis to bogie to gently guide the loco into the curve.

Sacrilege I know, but if you only have a 10ft wide area it's better than nothing!

Cheers,
Ian.
  Forum: O scale · Post Preview: #41810 · Replies: 2 · Views: 3,730

McNab
Posted on: 25 Nov 2006, 01:05


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I'm shy, so I'll just say Hi !

0 Gauge for fifty-odd years (very odd).......
  Forum: Welcome & Introductions · Post Preview: #16303 · Replies: 11 · Views: 993

McNab
Posted on: 25 Nov 2006, 00:42


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Pete,

Having read through all the letters in the Gazette there doesn't seem to be a sure-fire solution, and there's support for what has already been posted here. Graham's Electrolube (or Clock Oil, but not 3-in-1), and Brian's "rust in the right place" are both mentioned. Regular running with a good load keeps the treads shiny, and helps keep the rails clean too.

Slaters say that the most frequent cause of rusting is acid fumes - even soldering in the same room as steel wheels will do it. This has never been a problem for me - I use Wallsall's cast iron wheels as well as Slaters steel ones, but I do cover everything up as much as possible when soldering.

Forgot to mention that coach and wagon wheels are available in brass, but for driving wheels cast iron and steel are almost universal. Stainless Steel slips, and Nickel plating wears through.

If your problem is indoors, try an ordinary domestic fan - wall mounted, high up, 24 hours a day every day - works wonders killing humidity.

Good luck!
  Forum: G and larger scales · Post Preview: #16301 · Replies: 5 · Views: 1,449

McNab
Posted on: 24 Nov 2006, 01:30


Baggage Porter
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Pete,

There has been a lot of correspondence about this in recent issues of the Gauge 0 Guild Gazette. I'll read them again and come back to you with a summary. I don't know of any N/S wheels on the market, but I could be wrong.

My own guess is that Slaters have had a bad batch of steel - very unfortunate for them if true, because none of my wheels have ever rusted. How dry is your railway (or workshop), and have you been soldering near the wheels with an acid flux?

Cheers, Ian.
  Forum: G and larger scales · Post Preview: #16228 · Replies: 5 · Views: 1,449


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