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Posted on: 23 Dec 2008, 15:06


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Thanks for the replies I think a sensible solution as you indicate would be to double the existing board area. I will need to clear the centre of the loft I think and plan a level layout. The planning will be interesting, the just clearing the centre of the loft sounds easy but. huh.gif
Thanks again for the advice.
  Forum: O scale · Post Preview: #71792 · Replies: 3 · Views: 4,021

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Posted on: 18 Dec 2008, 16:55


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Hi,
Although I live in a large house the loft which is used for storage is the most likely place I can use for a layout.
I am considering a very large flat door as a base which has been used as a table up there for many years. Although I can see from the magazines, track books and forums etc. I could constrain my layout to this area approx 2 x 1 metres but I was thinking of running track around the eaves but there is a height difference at the only useable height in the roof of 250mm. What would be a safe rate of rise, for loco, controllers etc. to lift a train from the door to the roof loop without doing damage to either pieces of equipment. Raising the door / table would elimanate the problem but I don't think the layout would be at a sensible viewing or operable height.
  Forum: O scale · Post Preview: #71244 · Replies: 3 · Views: 4,021

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Posted on: 17 Dec 2008, 20:51


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Hi,
I am realy glad to see people are enjoying this model and I agree that with the aid of many contributers to this and other forums helping each other this kit can be made to work. Although I have built some other kits including now a small saddle tanker this realy was too much for in their words the "novice". I too made a removalble roof as I did not like the plastic one considering the rest of the cab was brass including the replacement backhead. But just look at one of my postings fitting 50 plus short pieces of brass wire, as per the instructions, to make the rivets along the top of the boiler, a stupid way to achive the right effect, now I know through another thread that the better way to this end are tiny rivets from the USA I believe. I have since found that entomological pins will do in some cases but there is not a great range in sizes as with the US pins. I did drop out at 40ish but do read this and many other threads and find as I have posted before it's this forum that has returned me to the enjoyment of rail modeling particularly in O gauge. Keep the help going I know from e-mails I receive, many get a hold host of help and ideas from the exchanges. I read with interest old novices contributions.
Bye Neil
  Forum: Media - Magazines, Books, TV, Video & Photo... · Post Preview: #71164 · Replies: 211 · Views: 61,228

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Posted on: 14 Dec 2008, 11:57


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Hi,
Thanks again for all the advice I think the Loctite route might be first choice. The panels are fitted into holes in the base but when you need to join 2 panels together you end up with 2 post side by side. Therefore he needs to cut one off and then join the loose planks to the remaining post. I am sure scratch building may be the future route but I suspect that this appeared the easy way when the panels were offered. Thanks again we will try several I am sure.
  Forum: OO Gauge & 4mm Scale · Post Preview: #70751 · Replies: 8 · Views: 1,413

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Posted on: 11 Dec 2008, 16:35


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Hi,
My brother is fencing a farm etc., using PECO 5 plank fence panels, on his layout and has tried every glue he and I can think of the fix it in place. The holes are drilled for the posts and that's fine but joining two sections together just does not work. When two panels are together you need to remove one post leaving the five rails loose these obviousley would need to be fixed to the ajoining post but nothing seems to attack the PVC/Polythene type plastic they are moulded from.
This seems to be a common requirement but I have not come across an adhesive that will do anything but jam the planks in place providing they are not touched.
  Forum: OO Gauge & 4mm Scale · Post Preview: #70421 · Replies: 8 · Views: 1,413

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Posted on: 8 Dec 2008, 20:56


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QUOTE (Sidings @ 4 Dec 2008, 12:26) *
Old Novice, 0-6-0-OST appears to have had little trouble in obtaining a refund with his part built model, ultimately you have to build a model to discover what might be wrong with parts or the build.

If you go armed with nothing but magazines & parts they could have grounds to refuse a refund as you would then need to prove what make's what you have a case for refund, though with a fix needed for the footplate and chassis frames and the 47 parts being unsuitable for a working model there's probably enough to go at and then we have the late disclaimer, all the same it's a real shame some are going down this route but I can also understand there reasoning.

Maybe the best route for now might be to stick with it and make the best of what we have as the refund route will still be an open option should things take a turn for the worst.

Sometimes putting things down to experience makes sense as ultimately it is the manufacturer/supplier who will suffer in the long run, as for them pulling the plug, I think this would have an even bigger detremental effect as faith would be totally lost and with current downturn who can afford to loose custom now or in the future?

I would just like to add to some of the comments and concerns aired recently.
As a slight aside I must also admit that I would have done as Sidings said in his last post "Sometimes putting things down to experience makes sense as ultimately it is the manufacturer/supplier who will suffer......." if and in my early logic days IFF not for the lack of care, interest or response by those involved with the promotion, sale and supply of the product.

The cost of the magazine plus components was 4:99 I would expect the value of those parts offered (realising that there cost would vary week by week) with this part work, minus the cost of the actual magazine perhaps would be quite small. when you consider the time and effort spent in assembling the kit so far.

During my disscusions with Hachette returning the parts was never in my consideration or requested by Hachette. If it had I am sure the results would have been the same as I consider the work I put into this would be beyond there cost consideration not forgetting as some have noted the stress involved in trying to get a solution. On this last point I believe I noted before that this experience almost stopped my interest in the hobby totally. Luckily other parts of the hobby which had stopped have re-kindled my interest, this forum should take much of the thanks or blame smile.gif which ever is your point of view.
I will continue my interest in this and many of the other topics here. I am very glad that at an early stage, at about issue 2 or 3 I contacted this forum, my sympathys are with those, as noted by another, that are going it alone to continue or get out from under.
  Forum: Media - Magazines, Books, TV, Video & Photo... · Post Preview: #70115 · Replies: 211 · Views: 61,228

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Posted on: 2 Dec 2008, 21:21


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Hi,
As some will know I have been in discussion with Hachette for quite some time now, actually I have been e-mailing, phoning and writing for some time they have on rare occasions answered, No they acknowledged, my communications. mad.gif
Having written my penultimate letter "I received a response from a Katie Waters asking me to return my magazines and the motor set and I would receive a refund. When I phoned her to discuss this I was told Katie no longer works for Hachette, as I reported earlier. My magazines & motor set were sent immediately to Jarrow but then took a phone call almost daily, new Kay is always in a meeting dry.gif , before it was acknowledged that the package had arrived, the post office told me long before. More phone calls to Hachette later and "there's a cheque in the post" and low and behold it arrived.
I can not say I am happy with this outcome, I would have much rather have been continuing with the FS model but not in this state. In there later letter they still maintain that this is predominately a static model and the TV and other promotional material presented the model on a limited length of straight track, for which the model is only intended to run and they have since realised that this may not be clear enough for the customer and so have added clarification in recent issues. This I believe first appeared in issue 44, what about the world wide promotion is this being made clear in issue 1 perhaps our coleagues in warmer climes may be able to answer this.
I look forward to continuing to read about progress with this model and perhaps now a nasty taste is leaving me perhaps I will return to the hobby but this was aclose thing.
  Forum: Media - Magazines, Books, TV, Video & Photo... · Post Preview: #69533 · Replies: 211 · Views: 61,228

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Posted on: 26 Nov 2008, 12:00


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Oldnovice certainly appears to know what he is talking about and very interesting. I have read all of his postings and can see just how this topic has developed I hope to reach a conclusion to my efforts quite soon now.
In reply to Lancashire Fusilier "I wonder if Katie is building the Flying Scotsman" I don't know about that, she was very pleasent, a shame she was not fielding problems sooner for Hachette. I am told she dosen't work for them NOW just another twist to the curse of the Scotsman. sad.gif
  Forum: Media - Magazines, Books, TV, Video & Photo... · Post Preview: #68721 · Replies: 211 · Views: 61,228

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Posted on: 8 Nov 2008, 17:52


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QUOTE (Sidings @ 8 Nov 2008, 17:36) *
...
Rant over, I'll bide my time to #52 and if I'm not happy with what I see then its off down the same route as 0-6-0-OST!

Thanks for all the comments I know many are following this but perhaps many are not aware of why we novices started out on this journey Ugh!. I posted some of the original advertising info put out at the TV launch of this part work and copied some of the printed stuff for example; Thoroughly researched for accuracy, The model is designed to run on 32mm tracks, Steel wheels will not bend or buckle, so you can run your model for years. Yes! years, with glue, Old novice is right with his judement here., Brass is used for extra strength ensuring that the model will run smoothly if a motor is fitted, Whether you are an expert or a beginer, this new collection is for you!, To repeat myself perhaps they forgot these little details.
Thanks again all.
  Forum: Media - Magazines, Books, TV, Video & Photo... · Post Preview: #66601 · Replies: 211 · Views: 61,228

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Posted on: 6 Nov 2008, 19:37


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QUOTE (Lancashire Fusilier @ 6 Nov 2008, 01:11) *
I would love to however having read everything on the forums I never purchased issue one as it seemed somewhat fraught. There are many others out there though who are not happy that's for sure.

Hi LancFus,
Understandable you may well have saved yourself a lot of trouble, hopefully others who are in similar position as myself may answer the call and ask for acceptance by Hachette and a solution.
  Forum: Media - Magazines, Books, TV, Video & Photo... · Post Preview: #66386 · Replies: 211 · Views: 61,228

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Posted on: 5 Nov 2008, 22:20


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QUOTE (Sidings @ 5 Nov 2008, 21:33) *
You had any response to your complaint yet 0-6-0?

Hi,
No nothing yet an official notice period. We could all help if many others follow there own route and give some support to this action, the more there are the more we are likely to get a response / solution to this problem.
  Forum: Media - Magazines, Books, TV, Video & Photo... · Post Preview: #66299 · Replies: 211 · Views: 61,228

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Posted on: 31 Oct 2008, 22:03


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QUOTE (Doug @ 30 Oct 2008, 17:14) *
Yep, the Caboose 220S is the one to get.

Thanks Gene for the info.

Thanks for all these fantastic hints and tips on the mechanics. This forum never ceases to amaze at the depth of knowledge out there. I am sure we will be visiting one or more of these suggestions before too long.
Bye Neil
  Forum: OO Gauge & 4mm Scale · Post Preview: #65796 · Replies: 9 · Views: 3,442

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Posted on: 30 Oct 2008, 18:05


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QUOTE (Sidings @ 30 Oct 2008, 11:18) *
If you look back in this thread it seems 0-6-0-OST is already on there case.

The Gaugemaster web site say's the Combi controller is only suitable for OO & N Gauge layouts, yet this loco is O-gauge.

125 for the additional controller set, and now the suggestion is if you want to run the model other than on a 1m bit of track your going to have fork-out for a suitable O-gauge controller as well, is this game for a laugh? biggrin.gif biggrin.gif

Hi,
Just some information I am attempting to demonstrate their original launch. Remember this model in 125 parts plus the Combi and track etc. Total cost is 700+ approx.
Sales information;
The DVD sold with issue 1 begins with the completed model RUNNING on a straight track, as the Loco & Tender are 505mm long it would be impossible for this demo run to be filmed over a 1000mm length of track happy.gif . The DVD also goes on to say that the model is "compatible with all 'O' gauge accesories allowing you to build a fascinating working railway layout".

Thoroughly researched for accuracy.
The model is designed to run on 32mm tracks
Steel wheels will not bend or buckle, so you can run your model for years.
Brass is used for extra strength ensuring that the model will run smoothly if a motor is fitted.
Whether you are an expert or a beginer, this new collection is for you!
Perhaps they forgot these little details.
Still working dribble.gif
  Forum: Media - Magazines, Books, TV, Video & Photo... · Post Preview: #65688 · Replies: 211 · Views: 61,228

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Posted on: 30 Oct 2008, 09:27


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QUOTE (Doug @ 29 Oct 2008, 21:44) *
I have some. I'll post info on them tomorrow.

They work well, but they don't switch the frog polarity so if you use electrofrog points, you'll need to figure out an easy way to do that.

I use them to test the layout before I wire it all up.

Thanks Doug, didn't expect such a quick reply to such an obscure question smile.gif
  Forum: OO Gauge & 4mm Scale · Post Preview: #65650 · Replies: 9 · Views: 3,442

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Posted on: 29 Oct 2008, 19:26


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Hi,
My brother has recently totaly rearanged his 'OO' layout and wants to operate the majority of the turnouts manually instead of the 20 / 30 solenoids, switches and associated wiring. We are aware of many wonderful levers or wires which may be used but I wondered if there are any manufacturers or clever scratch builders that could advise how to make or where to obtain equivalent lever types as on a prototype say industrial site. I have a picture from my clockwork 'O' gauge stuff which shows the lever equipment I am trying, poorley to explain.

These large heavey levers were all round the ICI site I spent my life on and this is what I / we would like to reproduce on 'OO' gauge points.
Bye Neil
  Forum: OO Gauge & 4mm Scale · Post Preview: #65609 · Replies: 9 · Views: 3,442

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Posted on: 29 Oct 2008, 19:11


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QUOTE (BRITHO @ 18 Oct 2008, 15:40) *
And why not?

Regards

Hi,
Here are my last few, different, clockwork 'O' gauge wagons at least for the time being.
First one is a Petrol tank wagon ESSO in Silver about 1950 not sure what set(s) this was included in but another favourite.

Another Petrol tank wagon National Benzole in Silver lettered No 919 again not sure of the set it was from but about 1953

Next up a Tipper wagon this has a Rotary action so you can tip things to the side of the track instead of adding to the rail balast all the time biggrin.gif . This was from Set No50 labeled Trinidad Lake Asphalt for Roads and Roofs in Buff from about 1957

and last for the moment, a different action Tipper wagon, this one simply tipped over the side into a waiting truck tongue.gif . In Green labeled Sir Robert McAlpine & Sons Ltd. Civil Engineering Contractors. There were a number of variations in colour for this wagon which was produced from about 1949 to 1954

I will post a question on the 'OO' gauge section with regard to the manual, weighted point lever operation on the 'O' points with a picture. I am interested in fitting something similar to a 'OO' layout.
Bye Neil
  Forum: Collector's corner · Post Preview: #65608 · Replies: 30 · Views: 6,441

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Posted on: 17 Oct 2008, 16:36


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QUOTE (upnick @ 17 Oct 2008, 01:01) *
Removal of any plastic parts is done cleanly with a 'RAZOR SAW'

http://shop.ebay.co.uk/?_from=R40&_trk..._nkw=razor+saw+

in various grades of blade some as many teeth as 40 per inch giving a nice fine cut ready for cleaning up minimally with a scalpel .... i've used this method for years without broken/distorted parts, another item worth considering if they are still available are the two saw sets from Airwaves for finer work used with a scapel handle or on their own.

Hi,
Thanks for the info I made a razor saw, (cheap skate) but I like it I may invest in blades for my various handles when I get to a decent tool store. I think with tools you have to handle them, (that's very nearly funny) so when I am looking at clamps, sprue cutters I think a range of blades might be a good idea too.
  Forum: On My Work Bench · Post Preview: #64478 · Replies: 11 · Views: 1,746

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Posted on: 17 Oct 2008, 16:29


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QUOTE (0-6-0ST @ 13 Oct 2008, 22:08) *
Hi,
Having opened yet another avenue of my hobbies I may need to bring one or two items out of retirement even if it's only to repair those most needy, like perhaps the GW loco with damage.
Here are a few more wagons this time.

This is a 13Ton 'Mineral' wagon from Set No 20 BR Grey lettered M210112 c1949-54 there apear to be more than one of these, perhaps they were a favourite for me way back when.

There were many variations of this Flat wagon issued. Most had "GAS CYLINDER" transfer on the load and the bands around the load painted black. By the time this one was issued the Tripple Gas Cylinder load Red c1949-54 was in this rather plain state so perhaps towards the later part of the 1950s.

The last time this trundled round a track it had a BICC drum attached with cords and a tension spring I can't even find the drum. Described as an 8Ton Flat wagon from Set No 1 (strange to number this as No.1 at this late stage in clockwork dry.gif) in Bauxite Brown No E35968 XP 6-8 c1956 again variations had a furniture load or a refrigerated meat load in white.

One of my favourites is this 10 Ton crane from Set No 50 in Red c1957 this is all original and can still lift things, perhaps a little under 10 tons but tongue.gif
Still lots more to go so I will post some as and when I am around.

Hi,
Here are a few more from the darkest corners of my loft.
A 20 Ton Brake van from set No. 50 in Bauxite Brown lettered M35745 I am not sure where this came from because I am can not remember it on any layout previously.

This is in very good condition and I know this had some play value because of the neat sliding doors at each side. A cattle wagon not too sure of the details of this set No. or era but has done many miles.

This looks like it has seen beter days, the mechanism is OK but I think we need a black smith look at the jib smile.gif The Crane is from Set No. 20 in Blue on a very simple Green flat body c1954 the buffers I think are 2A c1939

These are reproduction people from Steve Flowers so a bit of a cheat but to good to exclude tongue.gif

The more I look at these the more I am tempted to do something about the damaged ones or even run them, steady on.
  Forum: Collector's corner · Post Preview: #64476 · Replies: 30 · Views: 6,441

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Posted on: 16 Oct 2008, 11:53


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QUOTE (0-6-0ST @ 1 Aug 2008, 11:31) *
Thanks for that Paul I am realy trying to get back to finish it off and other none important things keep getting in the way rolleyes.gif , must try harder.
Bye Neil

Here is the very nearly almost complete 0-4-0St Asbestos from Agenoria at some time it will be simply numbered and not named as the original. I have tried to make the cab roof removable sad.gif not as easy as I thought it would be and not as bad as my photograph shows, does the camera never lie?

I have also added two home made decal roundels, not too bad but poorley colour matched.
I am not happy with the shiney blue loco paint so I may try and see what mat lacquer does to the appearance ermm.gif
This front view is OK but I was surprised at how difficult it was to make the wrap around hand rail. I may cheat in future and do an on site mod, cut'em short biggrin.gif

Ignoring the cab roof, please, I painted the ejector fittings and pipe work after visiting Shildon and photographing a 0-4-0 ST No 7063 I may add other details as time permits.

There is still an anoying catch when it drives forward I must fettle that before too long.
  Forum: Prototype · Post Preview: #64376 · Replies: 25 · Views: 4,562

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Posted on: 16 Oct 2008, 11:10


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QUOTE (0-6-0ST @ 9 Oct 2008, 00:10) *
The next stage involves removing the brass parts from the fret. These are 4 x corners & 2 x buffer spring protection plates. They all needed rivets tapping out. I don't have much experience but I use a modified pin punch and tap them out on a plate of aluminium. I find this has just the right amount of resistance to produce a small rounded rivet. These were all then glued in place on the plastic frame.
Next the 4 x 'W' irons & 4 pairs of cast brass brackets. The quality of the lost wax castings is excellent. The instructions recommend soldering the brackets to the irons whilst still on the fret which I did and then dressed nibs and any signs of excess solder as they were removed.
I tried the horn blocks in place and they needed no attention but I found the bearings too tight to risk pushing into the blocks. I know I should use broaches to ream out fine fit parts but if at all possible I use a fine square file. The square removes material evenly from the hole and unlike round files they do not bind having contact only at the four corners, the bearings fitted neatly. Now to assemble Axle boxes and blocks c/w bearings to the 'W' irons, this I found most difficult avoiding glue on moving surfaces but eventually success.
I thought I would try various methods to remove the Axle boxes from the spru.

I used my Dremel'ish with a rotary saw blade and cut up the main ribs into many smaller parts. I believe this material is harder than the frame plastic perhaps ABS or something, so heating in a water dish didn't appear to help as a lot of pressure was needed with the craft knife. I have not yet seen a sprue cutter that I like so I returned to my home made razor saw, for now but a sprue cutter is a must for the future.
I would appreciate advice on which is the correct shape for the top of the Axle boxes. The red Oval in my picture indicates my 1st. thought and the red spot position my 2nd. this 2nd. point allows the spring in the Axle box to be seen sad.gif but may not be right.
Fitting the 4 x 'W' iron c/w Axle boxes etc was a little awkward but all went together quite well.

One good lesson I must remember for the future is to check that the locating pips on the plastic parts fit into their respective holes in the brass parts. This would be easy before assembly and both are free. Having discovered a large difference late on I had to open the holes in the brass carefully and tried the brass part frequently, as these pips & holes are to ensure accuracy in assembly it is easier to ream out the brass holes to fit the pips rather than the other way round and loose positioning. This was pretty tricky to do when fitting the irons to the already assembled frame wacko.gif
I marked the picture to show the locating Pips * and you can see it was a pain to do this for the 'W' irons with the assembled frame, I must do better. smile.gif

I may modify this tank wagon to a slightly different design which I know is not strictly correct but I will give it a try.

3rd stage The mechanical braking system. Trying to identify the parts e.g.. safety hangers, upper hanger bracket etc. my knowledge here was sadly lacking. I found a visit to Paul Bartlett's web site 'BR wagon photographs' of great assistance. Wagons pictured from a number of angles helped me to figure out how the equipment operated and was mounted on the frame.
The upper hangers c/w brake blocks cleaned up. Then the safety hangers removed from the brass fret and folded up into a 'U' The instruction says these should be located in a slot in the upper hanger, I must admit I had difficulty in positioning these as the slot is only a very faint couple of marks and getting the angle right was not easy. Next this small assembly is fitted to the under frame ribs with the blocks aligned with the wheels. This in fact is key to the whole arrangement and shows how the rest of the system fits together. The 4 'V' hangers removed from the fret and the outside pair are folded to allow them to fix into the outside face of the solebar. A piece of plastic rod is provided to enable the accurate alignment of the brake assembly. I substituted this for a piece of brass wire which gave more ridged control across the wagon. I passed this wire through the outside 'V' hanger, the inside hanger, the brake gear then across the frame through the other side components before then gluing all four 'V' hangers to the solebars. The brass wire is cut leaving 4mm of excess wire protruding passed the outside 'V' hangers. I also threaded a small piece of wire sleeve onto the brass wire between the inner and outer 'V' hanger to act as a spacer as on the prototype wagons.
Next the brake lever racks were removed from the fret , bent and glued to packing blocks on the solebar. I left one or two small components of at this point to move onto the truss rod. After removing the rods from the fret you need to form 4 rivets on each, this rod is 1.4mm wide and I did not make a good job of these.
Another lesson, I must practice with a variety of suitable "punches" for placing rivets in narrow strip.
The instructions also request the rods are soldered to the base of the 'W' irons. I am not sure this would be a good idea at this stage in the assembly. The plastic axle boxes are approx 1.5 - 2.0 mm above this point and there would be no way of shielding them from the heat so I glued these in place. Once these are fixed the small strap from the base of the lever racks is bent to contact the truss rod and glued. The brake lever is placed just to check positioning.
I think a book on how prototype vehicles actually go to gether, braking, wheels suspension / compensation etc. might be a good idea perhaps on PO trafic, if some one can recomend a suitable book this may be a good Christmas gift tongue.gif
  Forum: On My Work Bench · Post Preview: #64371 · Replies: 11 · Views: 1,746

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Posted on: 15 Oct 2008, 19:26


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QUOTE (flying dutchman @ 14 Oct 2008, 10:23) *
0-60st I did see your previous post and all I was trying to do is to help you contact the organ grinder instead of the monkey. Obviously you do not need help and have this situation under control, other people may not be so fortunate. Its a pity that more people arn't inclined to help each other overcome the difficulties of this kit.

Hi,
Thanks flying dutchman I have received a lot of help from this forum. My interests in the hobby goes back a long way but my kit building is very recent. WHSmith management are aware now but all the assistance I have had from them over many years, it seems a shame that as the actual retailer they too have to be involved. Their head office were not aware of the problem but I am sure by now they will be. Mr. Postman will be winging his way to those nice people at Hachette etc. and I will let the forum know what their response is too.
  Forum: Media - Magazines, Books, TV, Video & Photo... · Post Preview: #64312 · Replies: 211 · Views: 61,228

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Posted on: 14 Oct 2008, 08:29


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QUOTE (flying dutchman @ 14 Oct 2008, 09:00) *
I would give Jacklins a miss as they seem to only act on Hachette's behalf, in the mag is an address in London for Hachette, perhaps a registered letter there would bring a reply rather than an e-mail which they could delete .

Jacklins would only give you the runnaround in the hope you get fed up and wander off. Perhaps a letter to Hachette in London would bring a result. You could also look in this web site for further addresses to write to via snail mail rather than e-mail which is all to easy to deny all knowledge it arrived.

http://www.hachettepartworks.com/

or the parent company

http://www.hachettelivre.co.uk/

Hi,
Please read my replie(s) I am not e-mailing jacklin, I am not waiting for there treasured responses. I have written to Hachette direct see my previous.
I will let this board know when I have any thing NEW to add.
  Forum: Media - Magazines, Books, TV, Video & Photo... · Post Preview: #64172 · Replies: 211 · Views: 61,228

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Posted on: 13 Oct 2008, 21:08


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QUOTE (Brian Considine @ 12 Oct 2008, 14:50) *
I certainly am interested - thanks for the pics.

Hi,
Having opened yet another avenue of my hobbies I may need to bring one or two items out of retirement even if it's only to repair those most needy, like perhaps the GW loco with damage.
Here are a few more wagons this time.

This is a 13Ton 'Mineral' wagon from Set No 20 BR Grey lettered M210112 c1949-54 there apear to be more than one of these, perhaps they were a favourite for me way back when.

There were many variations of this Flat wagon issued. Most had "GAS CYLINDER" transfer on the load and the bands around the load painted black. By the time this one was issued the Tripple Gas Cylinder load Red c1949-54 was in this rather plain state so perhaps towards the later part of the 1950s.

The last time this trundled round a track it had a BICC drum attached with cords and a tension spring I can't even find the drum. Described as an 8Ton Flat wagon from Set No 1 (strange to number this as No.1 at this late stage in clockwork dry.gif) in Bauxite Brown No E35968 XP 6-8 c1956 again variations had a furniture load or a refrigerated meat load in white.

One of my favourites is this 10 Ton crane from Set No 50 in Red c1957 this is all original and can still lift things, perhaps a little under 10 tons but tongue.gif
Still lots more to go so I will post some as and when I am around.
  Forum: Collector's corner · Post Preview: #64139 · Replies: 30 · Views: 6,441

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Posted on: 13 Oct 2008, 20:40


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QUOTE (flying dutchman @ 12 Oct 2008, 15:48) *
Rather than wait an age for Jacklins to reply on the inside cover of the mag is an address for Hachette. Craigshaw mentioned he had an e-mail from a person called Katie. Perhaps with a flood of complaints something might get done as for all we know Jacklins could ditch the complaints in the bin. It is certainly worth dropping her a line to see what answer she replies with.

Hi,
I replied to this once but can not see my reply now?
I do not intend to wait for any reply as I said in a previous note that I will not e-mail them again. But have talked to the consumer advice people and am therefore writing to Hachette direct. I hope others do continue to e-mail and hassel jacklin services for some answers. I have given them every opertunity to admit fault and make an offer to put things right, this they have not done and I think the legal approach is the way to go for me atleast.
I will as always keep this forum informed.
  Forum: Media - Magazines, Books, TV, Video & Photo... · Post Preview: #64135 · Replies: 211 · Views: 61,228

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Posted on: 12 Oct 2008, 13:34


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Hi,
Inspired by your clockwork Hornby pictures I decided to take a look at some of my collection. It's a long time since these saw the light of day.
This was one of the last to run with my oldest grandsons. They were retired as the wheels kept falling off, Mazac problem and enthusiastic pushing from said children. I believe it is a Loco from set No 50 in Black 60199 with Tender c1954 BR crest etc. The other grandson used this Loco and fortunately retirement saved this from a fate worse than death.

Again not sure but believe this to be a Loco from set No 30 in Green 45746 with Tender c1956-65 BR crest etc.
There are a number of this era loco put away but I also rediscovered this one, the condition has nothing to do with grdsons but must have had an accident some years before i got it. I have stored it away as I do not need another diversion just at the moment but a shame to see the state it is in. The rear coal bunker is missing sad.gif

There are a number of other wagons etc. I will post if anyone is interested in a few minutes nostalgia. biggrin.gif
  Forum: Collector's corner · Post Preview: #64034 · Replies: 30 · Views: 6,441

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