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> How to convert roco 04129B to dcc
Andy pandy
post 18 Nov 2020, 12:55
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Hi is there any chance some one can advise me on converting roco 04129B to dcc please regards Andy.
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dwb
post 18 Nov 2020, 16:49
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I tried to find that product code '04129B' on https://www.roco.cc/en/home/index.html (in the search box, top right) but got no results so I don't know what model you need help with.

David


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Pantograf
post 18 Nov 2020, 17:41
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https://www.modellbahn-rhein-main.de/produk...rg-ovp/?lang=en

Try Google
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Julian2011
post 18 Nov 2020, 21:13
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I note that it's out of stock - no wonder at Eu 60.00 a pop!!

Julian


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dwb
post 19 Nov 2020, 17:05
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I've been buying Roco stuff for about 15 years and I've never had stuff in that style of box so I guess this is quite an old model. The stock number is a different series as well.
The Roco website does allow you to browse discontinued locos. The earliest has a stock number 52540 and none of the 750 or so models listed looked exactly like the one in question here.
My guess would be that there might be an 8 pole socket for DCC in there as DCC has been going a lot longer on the Continent, but don't be surprised if you have to hard wire one.
I've no idea how you would go about getting the body off.

David


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Babz
post 19 Nov 2020, 23:18
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Hi Everyone DWB & Andy Pandy these old Roco loks need to change the circuit boards. There is a guy in Vienna
I have used a lot and i have done six conversions to make them led and 22Pin Dcc sound or just decoder.
You will have to change the weights to accomodate the decoder and speaker or just one for just DCC he supplies them as well. It is late now
So tomorrow if iam still alive i will dig out his details andwebsite so you can have a browse the gentleman is verynice and has a wealth of knowledge
Being in Austria. I met him in Intermodelbau in Dortmund 2 years in a row websit unusual but functional.
Till Tomorrow.
Babs
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SRman
post 20 Nov 2020, 00:04
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I cannot offer specific advice for that particular model, but I have converted a couple of older Roco and Lima models by adapting the existing PCBs and hard-wiring decoders in. It would be possible to eliminate the PCB entirely and wire a decoder directly between the pickups and the brushes, but the lights would have to be rigged separately then.

Babz has suggested swapping the PCB for a much newer DCC-ready one, which is a good idea as that would incorporate any lighting as well, and would have a DCC interface, but these boards do tend to be expensive.

WHat I have done is cut various tracks on the PCBs to separate the feeds for the brushes and lights using a slitting disc in my Dremel (mini drill), a job made easier because the PCBs are single-layered (i.e. there are no hidden links or tracks buried inside the silicon. To get the pickup feeds from both ends of the locos, I have had to solder a couple of linking wires too. The blue positive return wire for lighting may also need duplication to get all light circuits back to the decoder. Then it is a case of soldering the correct decoder wires to each area.

Here's a Roco Swiss loco I did, just to give you an idea of what is involved. The bigest problem by far with this loco was trying to find a physical space for the decoder itself without disrupting the lighting pipes and allowing the body to clip back on securely. This photo isn't as clear as I would like, but you may be able to make out here I have cut tracks in the middle.

Note that this model hada switch allowing overhead pickup from the pantographs: I disabled that by soldering the rotating contact semi-permanently to the board to prevent any accidental shorts that would destroy a decoder.

.


Looking at the model in question at the start, it may have a central motor with smaller boards either side, like this one. The same principles apply, just making sure the two ends are linked by wires where necessary (some were already there but I cut them all and started again to be sure I had them going where I needed them). If you cut a track that shouldn't have been cut (I did!!) it is easy enough to rewire them together again.



For this last one I actually cut a chunk out of the PCB (visible to the immediate right of the motor) to allow the TCS M1 decoder to sit neatly within the body space.
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Babz
post 20 Nov 2020, 07:21
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Hello Everyone as promised the company (amw.huebsch.at ) the price has for me never changed the replacement board is€20 and the weights not much money if you want led'slighting in your old engine and be able to replace decoders easily then this is your man. He even sells Zimo decoders at a fair price.
Babz
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6991
post 21 Nov 2020, 09:20
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Hi all,
Just for future (approximate) reference for Roco models if you are buying...

If the catalogue number is

70000 it is recent - last 5 years, bells and whistles.

60000 it is from late 90's onwards and has some kind of DCC socket

50000 normally the 'hobby' range (these days maybe 'made in Vietnam')

40000 mid-80s to late 90s, no sockets

0 prefix numbers roughly early production 1970s to early 1980s - definitely no sockets

This is a rough guide.....I claim no responsibility....just trying to help.... smile.gif

6991
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SRman
post 21 Nov 2020, 23:00
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That is useful information, 6991. Thanks. smile.gif
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6991
post 22 Nov 2020, 06:55
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Hi SRman,
I'm always glad to be of use... Another dead giveaway if buying things 2nd hand, for example on the internet, is to look at the couplings, look at the couplings on the loco and this gives you a window of when it was made.
6991
PS I am also a bit of an SR man - grew up within shouting distance of Lancing Carriage Works.
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