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zmil
Posted on: 14 Dec 2014, 14:37


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75 4015 = Flat face buffer 75 4006 = Curved face buffer.

the 4182 should have the brass coloured boiler bands and the brass coloured numbers front and on the cab sides.
Motor with flywheel Nem pockets for the couplers it will have a decoder socket just the 6 pin variety though.
  Forum: HO & International · Post Preview: #347195 · Replies: 14 · Views: 1,013

zmil
Posted on: 14 Dec 2014, 14:23


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Hi Sarah,

The buffers on these locos can break if the loco is not carefully removed or replaced in the box.

The parts for the buffers are for a flat buffer face or a curved buffer face. Right front is usually curved and left front flat..

Will have a look in my guide it should tell me a little more .

Cheers

Zmil
  Forum: HO & International · Post Preview: #347194 · Replies: 14 · Views: 1,013

zmil
Posted on: 26 Nov 2014, 12:52


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Hi Sarah,

I'm sure there are better versions of that loco than the Piko for about the same price.

Cheers

Zmil

QUOTE (Sarah Winfield @ 21 Nov 2014, 21:07) *
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/PIKO-HO-GAUGE-DR...=item2c84863cac

Further to my previous posting.

Above is a link to a typical item I would consider buying.

I have bought many Rivarossi US items this way and my 3 German locomotives have all come from ebay.

I would welcome your thoughts on this item please. I usually put in an offer.

Would I be best to buy the PIKO, the subject of this topic or the ebay item?

Many thanks,

Sarah Winfield

  Forum: HO & International · Post Preview: #346365 · Replies: 26 · Views: 4,994

zmil
Posted on: 27 Mar 2014, 10:20


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Just a reminder! smile.gif
  Forum: The Station Concourse · Post Preview: #335103 · Replies: 25 · Views: 3,451

zmil
Posted on: 27 Mar 2014, 10:18


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Hi All,

I had some problems with eBay but not too many.

Here is one example.

eBay Claim
  Forum: HO & International · Post Preview: #335102 · Replies: 17 · Views: 2,618

zmil
Posted on: 13 Feb 2014, 12:03


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Hi Andrew,

Much easier to use the light pipes , There is not a lot of room in that Loco for wiring hence I tried to keep it quite short and used the small 0603 LEDs with small resistors (0.25w). You could get away with using the normal two function decoder and let the tail lights come on when the headlights are on at the opposite end.

Cheers

Ric
  Forum: HO & International · Post Preview: #332703 · Replies: 34 · Views: 4,576

zmil
Posted on: 10 Feb 2014, 00:13


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Hi Andrew,

I used warm white 0603 SMD LED's and Red 0603 SMD LED's a bit tricky to solder I possibly used 1k ohms for the white and 2k or 3.3k ohms for the red.
You may be able to save them off the circuit board.
There should be plenty of wire with the decoder for rewiring , but the telephone wire should be good also.

Cheers

Zmil
  Forum: HO & International · Post Preview: #332562 · Replies: 34 · Views: 4,576

zmil
Posted on: 7 Feb 2014, 08:16


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Hi Andrew,

Been a bit busy today ( Work - that 4 letter word!) It may be best to solder a link wire direct from the circuit board (where the orange and grey wires are soldered) to the motor contacts , use an orange and grey to keep the colour code matching. But that way you will not disturb the decoder wiring.

Cheers

Zmil
  Forum: HO & International · Post Preview: #332380 · Replies: 34 · Views: 4,576

zmil
Posted on: 6 Feb 2014, 13:03


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Hi Andrew,

Sorry for the late reply , My relative sent me a letter with your email about the Roco Bo Bo The decoder is one of Richard's DCCconcepts decoders not sure what has happened to it. I did not think they were prone to resetting. The Orange and Grey wire should be part of the Harness. The other two wires are for connecting the Stay Alive unit (which I do not think I installed on this Loco) You should be able to remove the decoder from the harness plug I know the wires are quite short as there was not a lot of room to work with in the loco . The extra function wires ( for the red tail lights) may also be hard wired to the decoder not the harness. I cant remember exactly!

Maybe Richard can shed a little more light on this?

Hope this helps

Cheers

Zmil
  Forum: HO & International · Post Preview: #332345 · Replies: 34 · Views: 4,576

zmil
Posted on: 28 Nov 2013, 12:08


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When I was younger ( much younger smile.gif ) I had lots of the old Fleischmann (6600 or 1600 series) hollow track that I had inherited from my older cousin.
It is possible to join it with code 100, I filed down the ends of the code 100 and slipped it inside the hollow rail.
There where special adapter track available from Fleischmann (6009 or 1700/4V )

  Forum: HO & International · Post Preview: #326802 · Replies: 4 · Views: 1,649

zmil
Posted on: 12 Sep 2013, 05:53


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A bit More Explanation of CV29 Bit1

Bit 1
F0 location: 0 = F0 controlled by bit 4 of speed direction instruction (14 speed steps). 1 = F0 controlled by bit4 of function group 1 (28 and 128 speed step modes).
  Forum: DCC · Post Preview: #320237 · Replies: 5 · Views: 713

zmil
Posted on: 12 Sep 2013, 03:47


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Hi Peter,

I think you may have been reading the CV29 defintions for Multifunction decoders in the NMRA standards.

Cheers

Zmil
  Forum: DCC · Post Preview: #320231 · Replies: 5 · Views: 713

zmil
Posted on: 12 Sep 2013, 02:06


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Sounds like someone is keen to sell and take your money!

Old Locos will run great on DCC , I have converted lots of older Locos to DCC as long as they were running well on DC then they will run well on DCC.

Cheers

Zmil
  Forum: DCC · Post Preview: #320229 · Replies: 33 · Views: 3,468

zmil
Posted on: 13 May 2013, 01:33


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Hi Alan,

Just looking at your pictures and where the decoder was placed in the loco is not where I would put it.

Look through my work bench thread and there are a number of Fleischmann BR218 conversions.

The Decoder, when factory fitted, is usually on the flat spot in the channel of the loco weight right near the speaker mount.

Also it looks like the bulb (lamp) is missing at one end.
  Forum: DCC · Post Preview: #307113 · Replies: 14 · Views: 2,408

zmil
Posted on: 8 May 2013, 04:59


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That would be "sea monkey families"

Still available today believe it or not rolleyes.gif


QUOTE (Jaz @ 4 May 2013, 15:20) *
. His comic collection was wonderful, I always rember the Superman adverts at the back which spoke about little swimming families - I would have been so disappointed to see the actual item biggrin.gif

  Forum: On My Layout · Post Preview: #306438 · Replies: 1974 · Views: 115,673

zmil
Posted on: 8 May 2013, 01:17


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Hi Nigel and welcome,

Check that the motor runs OK without being in the loco, Sometimes an oil build up on the brushes can stop reliable contact, this will burn away with a bit of a free run.
Also that particular loco is quite geared down- high motor revs for slow speed and power .
You may find the drive cogs are jamming , there is sometimes problems with the drive cogs touching the body as well..

I have converted quite a few of these to DCC.

Hope this helps

Cheers

Zmil
  Forum: HO & International · Post Preview: #306429 · Replies: 11 · Views: 3,767

zmil
Posted on: 3 May 2013, 16:09


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Thanks Richard,

I knew you would have at technique.

I did not realize till I looked at the picture, That the rivets had two different diameters on the shaft.


On something totally different


Here is Robert Plant at the Freo Blues and Roots Festival



I went and had a good spot to enjoy and take a few pics

  Forum: On My Work Bench · Post Preview: #305759 · Replies: 242 · Views: 30,570

zmil
Posted on: 3 May 2013, 15:10


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This is the difference between the Weinert Gear and the Fleischmann rod



The pin is th eoriginal Fleischmann one.

A bit of a challenge as I have not attempted to change parts in drive gear before.

Any recommendations will be welcomed
  Forum: On My Work Bench · Post Preview: #305752 · Replies: 242 · Views: 30,570

zmil
Posted on: 3 May 2013, 15:05


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The next picture shows the Wweinert parts
Rods etc.

a finer detail than the original Fleischmann.



This is the original pin that I drilled out.



  Forum: On My Work Bench · Post Preview: #305751 · Replies: 242 · Views: 30,570

zmil
Posted on: 3 May 2013, 14:55


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Hi All ,

Here is what I'm working on.

These are the pins/ rivets that hold the push rods to the parts of the valve gear.



This is the chassis and drive gear - a bit of fiddly work!!



I used the fine drill to take the original pins out
  Forum: On My Work Bench · Post Preview: #305748 · Replies: 242 · Views: 30,570

zmil
Posted on: 3 May 2013, 01:01


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Hi Paul,

Changing the wires around to the track will not change the direction of the locos in DCC

Forward on the controller should move the loco in the forward direction ( ) - regardless which way around it is on the track

Otherwise you will need to try the fixes previously mentioned

Cheers

Zmil
  Forum: DCC · Post Preview: #305650 · Replies: 15 · Views: 5,118

zmil
Posted on: 2 May 2013, 02:14


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Thanks Richard,

I took some pictures as I went along , but left the camera at home rolleyes.gif

At work ATM with only a few things to do and could have uploaded them. dry.gif

Enjoying getting back into modelling
  Forum: On My Work Bench · Post Preview: #305507 · Replies: 242 · Views: 30,570

zmil
Posted on: 1 May 2013, 14:29


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Hi All,

Probably not the best place to add an inquiry ... But
Having a bit of fun on my workbench - will add some pictures later.

Has anybody put together any Weinart valve gear?
The gear is supplied with little pins - I just need to know the best method of securing the pins ( no instructions) I'm assuming the pins are finished like rivets and I'm not sure what is bthe best way to proceed.

Any suggestions will be appreciated

Cheers

Zmil
  Forum: On My Work Bench · Post Preview: #305437 · Replies: 242 · Views: 30,570

zmil
Posted on: 15 Apr 2013, 05:39


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Hi Charles,

these came from a modler in the US,
If you look through the Weinart catalog they do kits too improve the detail on some Fleischmann and Roco models , including wheel sets etc.
This little job I'm doing was started by someone else, the wheelsets have had a blackening treatment as they are quite bright and shiney when new.
I was a bit concerned with the conductivity of this treatment as the multimeter showed "open circuit" but when appling power there is not an issue.

Reddo the Blue and cream were often used on IC trains

Cheers

Zmil

QUOTE (Ozzie21 @ 12 Apr 2013, 21:04) *
Zmil,I've seen the Weinart models, a friend has built a few, but I didn't know you could get wheels in RP25. from whom did you obtain the wheels and can you get them for most of the German classes.

Charles Emerson
Queensland
Australia

  Forum: HO & International · Post Preview: #303272 · Replies: 615 · Views: 71,361

zmil
Posted on: 12 Apr 2013, 06:17


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Having said all that , I'm in the middle of fitting some RP25 Weinart wheels to a Fleischmann BR91 for a fellow modeller it does look marginally better with the smaller flanges -
just having a struggle taking some of the tiny pins out so I can fit the replacement con rods etc. And waiting for some parts as usual.

QUOTE (Richard Johnson @ 10 Apr 2013, 12:06) *
*** Like gumboots on a bikini model, they are too big to miss... no need to look.

Richard

  Forum: HO & International · Post Preview: #302887 · Replies: 615 · Views: 71,361

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