[Julian2011]

It would be far simpler to employ the switch pilot servo version and also extension for this, but also much more expensive in comparison to a simple Y lead and micro-switch/servo control rod.

I'm not quite sure that I'm interpreting the above correctly. But, the Smartswitch can be used with both Y leads and operate several control rods, from each Servo. Using the spare Servo arms, which come with each Servo, it's simple to use a spare arm to:-

Reduce the Servo throw from 180deg at the Servo, to the 3mm throw for the points and another rod, lower down the same servo arm, to the Peco Dual micro-switch, for Frog polarity.

The second micro-switch can isolate a length of track leading to the heel of the associated points, for heel protection.

It also has outputs for signals, at the right voltage for direct connection to LED signals.

Julian

 

[Julian2011]

Thanks for the clarity on the use of the Switchpilot.

You may be interested in a couple of ideas for controlling the pressure along the rod to the switch-points. Both are simple and very cheap. The coil, compression, springs are just purchased online [a couple of dollars] and very cheap for packs of 20 / 40 / 100 etc. I got several lengths, so as to be able to experiment, the ones in the picture are 9mm long, but I have some at 3mm and also 4mm. [NB. They also come in OO wagon, 3-link, coupling packs, which gave me the idea in the first place, but prices caused me to look online, where there are simply loads available.]

These are over the board, for use under platforms, but operate equally well under the board.

The crossover, both from the one servo.

Coil springs do the same job, but occupy much less space. The connectors are readily available in model a/c or boat shops. I left the pins on the alloy connectors, for illustration, they are now gone.

The pictures are from a mock-up trial, to see how practical it might be.
Julian

 

[Julian2011]

I just noticed your mention of the one servo to control 2 x points at a time on the crossover, ie single control rod to two servos. I'm not sure if I mentioned any detail about the spare servo arms, used as ball cranks and throw reduction arms. The picture shows how I made sure that when one set of points is pulled, the other set is pushed. I simply made use of the small arm on opposite sides of the cranks.

For axles for the crank servo arms, most of the spare servo arms [around this size] have 3mm screw holes, there are a few with 2.5mm screw holes, but I have a 3mm drill bit and use the same bolts.

Some ideas and principles are pictured below, too.

Obviously the PL-15 connector rods won't be needed, as you intend using Peco electronic frog polarity switching.
On the topic of the Smartfrog, I don't think that using one servo for two turnouts can done, if using the Peco Smartfrog, as each of the two frogs pairs will need opposite polarity.
It could, however, easily be done using Train Tech RL1 Relay controllers.
Relay Controller

Relay controls could be either from the same Smartswitch output ports, top of Page 3, or [easier] giving each RL1 the same DCC address as each Servo you are using, lower Page 3.
Instructions

http://ccgi.dcpmicro.plus.com/traintech/pdf_manuals/RL1_Relay_Controller.pdf

Julian

 

[Julian2011]

Are you using Peco Points? Their additional holes at each end of the points Tie Bar are very useful when it comes to adding control rods [from any type of Points motor]. It's even possible to drill a small slot to the side of the Tie Bar, for access to the underside of the boards without having to lift Points already laid. Other makes can normally have a 1mm hole bored in their Tie Bar ends, too. [Possibly Granny, with an egg, stuff??]

By the way, I don't know about other folks, but I tend to lay the track, without any fixing, until everything is set up. I have sometimes popped the odd track pin through a sleeper, where I want to hold a particular bit of track, before permanently fixing it. [Normally to hold curves in place at track joins] I leave them a couple of mm proud, so they can still be pulled if a change is needed. [Possibly, more egg??]

Best wishes,
Julian

 

[Julian2011]

Retirement - a time when you can really concentrate on getting properly busy.....

J

 

[Julian2011]

I confess to knowing nothing about ECoS, but do have the Peco Servos, which were said to be generic to Switchpilot. Looking at the information you've got there, you seem to have addresses 1 - not working, 1.2 1.3 1.4 working, 2.1 - not working, 2.2 working. Just a suggestion [which you have probably done already] possibly leave addresses 1 and 2.1 in the ECoS, as is and add 1.5 and 2.3. It might then be possible to programme the Switchpilot to 1.2 - 1.5 and 2.2 to 2.3, leaving the ECoS to think that 1 and 2.1 still exist??

It's certainly very strange behaviour and I wish you the very best of luck.

Julian