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403 Posts
Hi Folks and Rob I think I did say earlier that as far as I am aware ALL 2 shoe unfitted Morton brakes post 1923 have the brakeshoes on the same side as the lever with the reversing clutch on the vee. This means of course that the brake push rods are left over right to give the correct action when viewed side on with the wagon on it's wheels. The only problem with sliding the brakeshoes across on your wagons is that the mouldings are only fully detailed on one face and you will probably finish up with the undetailed face showing if you do this.
....If you use RCH post '23 43two1 Models cast brake pin guides the top is correctly detailed with the stepped in outer arm with bolt and the cast peg designed to fit into a hole at the top of the solebar web to secure. I have bought many built Parkside kits with the pin guide glued on back to front. This means the part of the moulding which is supposed to fit INTO (or ON TO for Wood ) the solebar actually sticks out. I wonder if the instructions are not very explicit in this area. The Parkside moulded pin guides do not have the holes for the pin in the outer face, only etched guides usually have this, although some w/m ones also do. Filing off the top of the lever guide may improve things if you can do so sucessfully but that still leaves you with a problem. The rest for the lever, when not in use for braking, is inboard of the slot it slides down to apply the brakes but it is also positioned so that the lever is generally lower down than you have fitted it, On steel solebar wagons the lower edge of the lever usually rests just above the top of the lower flange of the solebar. Wood underframe wagons tend to have the pin guide slightly closer to the underside of the curb rail and the lever correspondingly somewhat higher because the wood solebars are generally 12" deep against 9" for steel. Part of a wood solebar is behind the curb rail so does not look as deep as it actually is.
.... As always, photos are the best guide and pre 1923 wagons vary far more than RCH post '23 designs.
....If you use RCH post '23 43two1 Models cast brake pin guides the top is correctly detailed with the stepped in outer arm with bolt and the cast peg designed to fit into a hole at the top of the solebar web to secure. I have bought many built Parkside kits with the pin guide glued on back to front. This means the part of the moulding which is supposed to fit INTO (or ON TO for Wood ) the solebar actually sticks out. I wonder if the instructions are not very explicit in this area. The Parkside moulded pin guides do not have the holes for the pin in the outer face, only etched guides usually have this, although some w/m ones also do. Filing off the top of the lever guide may improve things if you can do so sucessfully but that still leaves you with a problem. The rest for the lever, when not in use for braking, is inboard of the slot it slides down to apply the brakes but it is also positioned so that the lever is generally lower down than you have fitted it, On steel solebar wagons the lower edge of the lever usually rests just above the top of the lower flange of the solebar. Wood underframe wagons tend to have the pin guide slightly closer to the underside of the curb rail and the lever correspondingly somewhat higher because the wood solebars are generally 12" deep against 9" for steel. Part of a wood solebar is behind the curb rail so does not look as deep as it actually is.
.... As always, photos are the best guide and pre 1923 wagons vary far more than RCH post '23 designs.