A group build....

and in reality, the ladder is, well... way over-scale. It'd take a seriously strong man to lift a ladder made of 10x3 timbers
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It's probably a hop pickers ladder .

Lol

Stu
Glue on chimney? I stuck the sides together pushed the top in pushed the chimney in, I cemented the windows in I was sick of them falling out. Lets see what I can get backout, rub down and redo.

Richard
The ladder was bought from Langley at a show as a 00 gauge. As I mentioned I snatched some stuff to dress it. I like the blankets on the washing line especially material (must go make some itsy bitsy wee clothes pegs because I think it photographs well. I think if you can use the real thing why not. Hence theribbon I used on my Dapol House. Taken at a decent distance it looks good to my mind.

This is more like you want?

tissue painted to look like canvasses

I really am a butterfly on speed Onwards and upwards......But grounded and having another go.........

I managed to get some windows out sanded them repainted them put them back. I had to cut two that were cemented and then straighten them. By now I hate those windows....
I tidied the chimney and made an aerial - well I conned Kal I can't even silver the copper! He saw me near his rather expensive soldering iron and almost had a heart attack. He wasn't impressed with my scraps for the aerial but kindly did as I asked rather than taking more time to do a better job as he knew I was impatient. He made the straps as well. I knew there was a reason I married him.
I have one weathering powder, so I brushed some on the roof and wiped it off again. Not exactly rocket science. I added some copydex and more 'moss' to hide the bits I thought looked really bad.
I put a strip of plastic by the front door having painted it balck to hide the gap.
Am I going to put decent colour and grass on the cork tile. No....off to the layout destroy hogsmeade, add some ballast I mean gravel.


House with a 2m Yaggi aerial









Ok slash it again. I have more cellotape and blue tack ready to put it back together again
And for the record I will probably buy a properly proportioned aerial and stick it on if it makes it to the layout. But for a ten minute job I think this one is Great.

*** You are already starting to develop some really nice skills and you clearly have a good eye. One of the watersheds is evolving that and developing an instinctive eye for scale... so the rightness of things is clear at a glance. Getting to that stage starts the transition from OK models to believable models...

The ladder was an anachronism that was extreme enough in its error to take away believability, that is all. YOUR eye is a better indicator than their label if you trust it. The ladder was clearly created by a blind man - or one with a stretchy rubber ruler.

I really do not mind what you hang on the line, so I do not "want" anything, but you invite comments so I show due respect and give honest answers. I would simply not bother answering if each answer just results in defending what is being done as then there is no point - I am not having a go, just doing what is indirectly requested by the fact that you posted in the way you did... The simple fact is that unfortunately, if a believable model is wanted, then you cannot usually use the real thing because its baseline is 76x over-scale in too many ways. I leave bland approval to those who specialise in it.

Pure fine silk may start to come close BTW... but as fine as it is its still subject to full scale characteristics, and needs some special treatment to use a as scale component. As a good example of what doesn't work at all look at Bachmanns China clay wagons with the "cloth hoods". The cloth hoods make the whole thing look silly.

<Snip> The ladder was bought from Langley at a show as a 00 gauge. As I mentioned I snatched some stuff to dress it. I like the blankets on the washing line especially material (must go make some itsy bitsy wee clothes pegs because I think it photographs well. I think if you can use the real thing why not. Hence theribbon I used on my Dapol House. Taken at a decent distance it looks good to my mind. <Snip>

Ditto... Yes, its far better scale-wise. But its not to do with what I want.... it should be simply does this look right. I think it looks far more realistic, and if it also looks right to you, that's great.

<Snip> This is more like you want? tissue painted to look like canvasses <Snip>

a real improvement - and kudos for doing it. I rate bloody-minded determination high on the scale when it comes to important hobby attitudes. You always win in the end when you have it . The windows would not be high on my favourites list either. Its actually easier and faster to scratchbuild nice windows than repair bad and badly scaled moulded ones...

<Snip> I managed to get some windows out sanded them repainted them put them back. I had to cut two that were cemented and then straighten them. By now I hate those windows....
I tidied the chimney and made an aerial - well I conned Kal I can't even silver the copper! He saw me near his rather expensive soldering iron and almost had a heart attack. He wasn't impressed with my scraps for the aerial but kindly did as I asked rather than taking more time to do a better job as he knew I was impatient. He made the straps as well. I knew there was a reason I married him.
I have one weathering powder, so I brushed some on the roof and wiped it off again. Not exactly rocket science. I added some copydex and more 'moss' to hide the bits I thought looked really bad.
I put a strip of plastic by the front door having painted it balck to hide the gap. <Snip>

House with a 2m Yaggi aerial YAGI

Only if you promise to enjoy it. (3m magic tape is better LOL).

<Snip> Ok slash it again. I have more cellotape and blue tack ready to put it back together again <Snip>

Buy some hard brass or straight NS wire from Alan Gibson workshops or similar. Make it again. its more fun. Spoil yourself. take 15 minutes

<Snip> And for the record I will probably buy a properly proportioned aerial and stick it on if it makes it to the layout. But for a ten minute job I think this one is Great.<Snip>

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Kindest regards

Richard

Thanks to you both.

I still have plenty to learn though. I tried the dirt under the windows that StuB did and was disappointed with my efforts, His were a really good representation after googling semi detached homes, so I T cut them. Was it my one weathering powder? I then tried paint still no good. The way I used it? The paint brush too big? Not certain. Even the side windows with the patched plaster don't compare (I used Railroad acrylic concrete) to the kit bashed one I saw on another website. His work appears to use a very small paintbrush giving a lot of definition. He had changed several items adding the mock tudor look I have a soft spot for. I just drew in the bottom row of brick not just because it was quick but having plastered walls ourselves I see how small the line is. (Railmatch light brick) I still think the curtains cut from ribbon rescued from boxes of chocolates adds a nice touch.(being a pack rat has some advantages) And I went out this morning and looked at our Yagi aerial (I had meant to type one G) and the one on our roof is not a 2m but is actually pretty big so I suspect that Kal got the sizing way better than I thought. He did hold it against the front door of the model to size it.

Still I pick up skills as I go, and continue to use the ones I think work for the stuff that will go on the layout, and still try new stuff I see giving me a chance to improve. I like to try stuff that can fade after a while (agree with John Woodall on this) For the Hornby and Bachmann resin buildings being able to return them to pristine finish is desirable.

After this first kit build I have learnt a lot though.
1 do take the time to clean it up nicely. It pays dividends, especially in not going back if something then bugs you (or someone else )
2. temporary glue gives you a chance to check you are doing it right, and on a more expensive / time consuming kit this would save you wanting to throw it out the window.
2. Add paint as thin as possible in case you want to change the colour. Avoiding losing small detail with too thick a paint. Better to add more paint than lose detail.
3. adding one or two nice peaces of dressing make a lot of difference. Having a large choice from our layout, and a lot more in the box to make up, does give me the chance to get the feeling. Try to make sure these dressing items don't look too floating in mid air helps.
4. Dumping a touch of loose ballast around to ground the item pays dividends.
5. Having a blue sky behind also tricks the brain nicely, and try to not focus too closely on those trees that are going to look very 'toy' if you want to get some impression of realism.
6. I always take a lot more picture that I use. As its got a large screen I can check immediately. I can bin those with the floaty roofs and shift the roof and rephotograph.It does take time, but I get as much enjoyment from a good photograph. I will spend absolutely ages do detailed pictures of leaves out side on our trees. Trying to focus on the plant and hopefully a little insect has taught me a lot of patience.

I have loved this group build and hope other people will continue to have a go. You son't have to be the best.. You just need to take part and enjoy yourself. We are all learning. And it's fun to see other peoples take on how to do it. Good ideas spring from this type of effort. Oh and by the time I finished just about everything was hand painted, any earlier airbrushing ws long gone. So you don't need expensive kit. And I use house paints. Dulux sample pots are 3 for £1 in a lot of shops at present.

I will continue to watch this thread, I will probably see something to copy/steal for my own house.

Jaz the biggest critic of your work is the camera. It is also the most useful tool. What the eye sees in the flesh compensates but put it in a photo and you go how did I miss that!!!!

Anyway another trick is to give the walls an undercoat first. Now by being a bit clever here you can vary the colour of the under coat and when the top coat goes on it can be lighter or darker in patches depending on the colour of the under coat that is under the top coat (I hope this makes sense) so if you have a white undercoat the top cot will be a lighter shade than if it is a dark grey undercoat.

I have found that the more espensive the kit the better the quality it is, at least that is the way with german kits

I think it is better to spray/paint all the bits before putting it together then touching up the seems afterwards. Plus when you think about it if its prepainted and you use filler to fil the seems then paint them its going to look like its repaired. Tamya plastic putty is good for this.

As for the aerial, its an interesting thing. In some shots it looks really good, but in others not so good, and its only in the head on shots that it looks out of scale, so maybe its a placement type thing. However that being said, it you put more of them on the rest of the buildings remember to point them all in the same general direction!!!!!

Now if you want to greate a rough cast effect apply a coat of paint, while it is still wet cover it in ground white pepper, leave it a a little while to stick then gently tap to knock the excess of. The building will reek of white pepper so now is a good time to leave it outside to dry. Once dry a top coat can be applied which seals the pepper and the building no longer reeks of it.

How were you applying the weathering powder? It may have been the direction that you were applying it if verticle were you going just up or just down with your brush strokes or both up and down? I dont think brushing horizontally would not workk. I hope this doesn't seem to obvious but some times rather than brushing up only its easier to turn the building upside down and use downward brush strokes, which gives the same effect as upward strokes when the building is the right way up!!!!

Another way to darken the paint slightly is to paint the interior surface. Painting it light grey will give it a lighter shade than if the interior is painted black. Another bonus of painting the inside is that should you light the building it will help prevent light bleed through the walls.

As I type this on TLC they are making a life sized ginger bread house on a program about Disney holidays. Now I wonder how good icing sugar would be for a light dusting of snow!!!!!!!!

Cheers

John

John, Some good thoughts. Thank you. The Tamiya plastic putty definitely needs investigating.

I think I knew I should brush downwards, and probably did (can't hold my hand on my heart though) But as I need to define the tiles. I Think I will try your suggestion next time to go upwards. Why does such an idea seem so obvious when someone else points it out. It will add shadows at least. And if it still does not work theres always tissue to mop it up. (I was going to use some of my eye makeup shadow, having a much wider selection of colours (never do this without wifes permission!!!) but it just got too late in the day) Try try and try again. And as I didn't finish it with varnish. I can still look at it.

I agree regards the aerial too if it had been just about the aerial I would not have used some of the pictures. My main concern was keeping the roof on as it is not fixed. On one picture it looked fine and then when I moved round for a different angle another awful. So I then had to jiggle the roof. Have to say though Kal did a great job on the aerial it didn't wobble once.

Having got caught out on the windows, I had no intention of shooting my self in the foot by fixing the roof. I even resorted to tacky wax for the windows and curtains for the pictures, when they fell out during the setting up stage.

And other attempts on the group build where not that different in finish to mine. As I had got further and added extra details such as the moss hiding flaws, and a number of distraction points stopping you from concentrating on just the build. I bet putting StuB's attempt in a similar setting would have instant wow factor.

Anyway as said before looking forward to seeing others work. Oh I could put the house up minus the setting with some telling photographs

My wife and I have been together for 20 odd years, and while I may have found alternative uses for her emery boards, even thinking of using her make up is likely a step to far.

Its funny sometimes we naturally overthink things and the simple answer is well to simple that we dont even consider using it. I have a friend who is a pretty clever modeller. Did you know that the dirt under your house is generally very very dry and the top layer is actually very fine so it can be used as a modelling medium.

Always travel with some plastic zip lock bags, because when you are out and about you might find some sand or dirt that is the colour you are looking for.

I have no problems using commercial products but for some things natural stuff is ideal, the difficult part of it is finding it!!!!!!!

While I think about it wood ash is another good medium to use for weathering so again maybe see if you can get some and have a play with it.

Never be afraid to look outside the modelling shop. Craft and art shops have some neat stuff in them and its usually cheaper to purchase it from them rather than the model shop.

But alas its bed time, lost a squash 3-1 tonight, but it could have gone either way.

John

Here are a few random notes in no particular order on my approach to making buildings. I will make no claim as to this being the correct or best way, it is just my way. I will be interested in people disagreeing with me as I still have a lot to learn.

Construction - I try to build things such that I hardly ever use filler. You will see on this house I did where I blanked off the windows but if I had been scratch building that would not have happened. Believe it or not but on my market square the only bit of filler is where I joined two sheets to make the main paving area and where I scribed a couple of paving joints incorrectly. I do however make sure I file the joins so that they don't show. Because of filing the joints I always paint everything after assembly other wise I would damage the paint finish. It does however make some bits of painting quite awkward trying to get at some bits or hold it at strange angles. I have a couple of paint brushes that I have just bent the end near the bristles which are really useful for getting into awkward corners.

Painting - Although I always airbrush locos and rolling stock I never airbrush my buildings for main colour or weathering. They benefit from the slight variations in colour and surface texture that brushing gives.
I use Humbrol matt enamel although I am sure other makes would work just as well. I use Citadel (Warhammer) acrylics for painting people but for me it dries too fast for using it on buildings. When painting a surface that has brick or stone detail I start with the mortar colour as a dilute wash coat, depending on the colour of the plastic used for the walls and the mortar colour this sometimes takes two wash coats to get a basic coverage. It does not have to cover fully, just get close. The rest of the brick/stone colouring is built up with anything from two to five layers all dry brushed starting with darker shades and gradually getting lighter and then some variations used to pick out individual bricks/stones or just small areas. Dry brushing gives a slightly rough finish which really gives some texture. Each layer covers a bit less of the brick/stone so that the darker colours still show in some areas. For rough stone try to think of the way light catches the stones so the underside is usually a bit darker.

For this house it was just one colour but it was done with three thin coats rather than one thick one, it just seems to work better that way and you get a chance to correct any errors the first coat highlights.
The roof was done the same way as brick work. For the roof of this house it was all based around Humbrol 73 but heavily mixed with various things mainly grey but I seem to remember putting other things in there as well for the layers. As a final touch it was very very lightly dry brushed with Humbrol 28 a very light grey. This just picked up the edges of the tiles and gave a bit more definition to them. I have difficulty with mixing light grey with colours that are variations of red. Grey = white + black, red + white = PINK which is not what is required so a bit of experimentation is required and I have not got the final answer yet. There was a good pointer on the forum somewhere about weathering that had a section on fading colours. It is worth tracking down and having a look.

I have never tried house paint (for this I am assuming emulsion for walls) and never will. It is far too thick and does not thin well loosing all covering power.

Weathering - This is a bit like painting rolling stock and buildings. Rolling stock works well with being airbrushed but also needs other details added by just about every method going. Powders, dry brushing, dark washes and just plain painting of small details all have their place and all work well in the right situations. Buildings are simpler and I can't think of any circumstance where I would want to use an airbrush. My house in this project was done entirely with powders as I was using it as an experiment, I hadn't used them before but I am pleased with the result. There are some notes on how I applied them in an earlier post. Again referring to my market square it was built and painted based on real buildings which although are hundreds of years old are remarkably clean in their appearance and so the colouring was simply done as part of the stone painting and no additional weathering was added at all. Some stones are painted in a lighter colour where old stone has been replaced by new.

I have referred to paint washes, thin coats and dry brushing. All these require paint at significantly different thicknesses and I don't know how to explain or quantify any values for this. You may have heard some people refer to 'dirty thinners' for applying washes to things. I don't like this expression, if thinners is dirty enough to change the colour of something then it is too dirty to clean a brush properly and its colour could be anything. I make up the colour I want and then thin it to a point where it flows into brick pointing or cracks easily. If it is not flowing easily thin it a bit more, if it is not colouring properly then it is too thin, it is just practice, experience and experimentation to get it right. Thin coats for walls are naturally much thicker than a wash but I find that most paints are too thick straight out of the tin (Humbrol vary considerably) so adding 10% to 20% thinners helps but again is is just experimentation. For dry brushing I like the paint to be a bit thicker. I paint onto a bit of normal paper to get the right amount of paint on the brush and by using the same bit of paper the paint dries slightly and thickens up a bit. It is all very vague and statements like 'the right amount of paint' are not helpful. You can only find this out by your own experimentation.

To sum up this long waffle everything is based around experimenting and finding out what suits you best. There is no doubt that taking time over the painting will give a more detailed result if that is what you want to aim for. Different styles of building require very different techniques and only experience will teach you when to use what. I hope this is useful to some and if there is anything I can add please ask. As I say I am still learning so I don't have all the answers.

One final note - Johns comment about a camera being a useful tool is spot on. For some reason it shows up things that you seem to miss when you just look at it.

Stu

*** A couple of interesting comments - actually I agree with pretty well all of it, but also, with one exception, do not use house paint... and even then I do it over an undercoat.

The exception is "suede paint" which I brush on then stipple to restore the suede texture... which dries to give what I think is a quite believable "stucco" effect. This work in progress is for a building I started more than a year ago and still needs a bit to finish - Oh to have some modelling time again (Its all from flat styrene - everything cut/carved and textured from scratch, including the windows). Undercoated with white auto-primer before adding the slightly cream/off-white stucco.

BTW I just noticed that the doorstep is hovering - in reality when the building is seated properly, it sits on the large styrene area below is (the building is totally removeable from the styrene "garden area" it sits in)



Actually there is a postscript for this building - It was originally for an exhibition layout, but it was part-way through when it was decided it was too modern or perhaps "not decrepit enough" for a country pub in the step/garden area (as in this picture) - However I didn't want to revise it too much so rather than modify/butcher it quickly, I re-did a "quick cardboard job" for the exhibition - it took 4 evenings and actually turned out "not bad at all" for a quickie - I'll try to find a picture and add it tomorrow.

Regards

Richard