A group build....

Thanks, StuB. Quick answers to your questions:

1. I have not tried jointing the copper tape for precisely the reason you mention - I believe the adhesive would act as an insulator so there would be no connection. I did consider trying to scrape some of the glue off and then taping over the top to hold the joint but wasn't convinced it would work.

2. I solder once the tape is in place, then paint over the top. In future I will look at putting the tape between the layers of card or under the texture layers (as seen on the signal box roof) so there are minimal bits exposed.

3. It should be possible to solder the LEDs/wires to the tape prior to fitting as the tape is backed with paper which is then removed to stick the tape in place. I wonder if this would be even more fiddly, though.

4. As you can see I've not soldered since School 25 years ago, but I wouldn't have been that concerned about melting the plastic just putting a wee blob on to make an adequate connection for an LED.

Sarah is correct, the box is the Scalescenes one with Brassmasters windows/lever frame and some small details added from the Scalescenes furniture pack & other kits.

For more of my experiments in lighting see my thread on pages 2 & 3. I'm particularly pleased with the last picture in post #30 and the ones in post # 33.

QUOTE (Iarnrod @ 21 Mar 2013, 11:55) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>Thanks, StuB. Quick answers to your questions:

1. I have not tried jointing the copper tape for precisely the reason you mention - I believe the adhesive would act as an insulator so there would be no connection. I did consider trying to scrape some of the glue off and then taping over the top to hold the joint but wasn't convinced it would work.

> SNIPPED

Oh, now I see it.

Stu, you wanted to join the tape electrically. I thought you meant to run one strip over another WITHOUT joining electrically.

One way of maintaining electric flow would be to paint some conducting silver paint (as used to repair car rear window de-mist things/ circuit board tracks) as sold by Maplin's Electrical shops, car spares places, etc, over the end of the joint. (One tape on top of the other.) This should bridge the tiny gap between the end of the top tape and the surface of the bottom tape.

I hope that makes some kind of sense!

This seems to have stalled again so I have finished off my house. As I said earlier this is my first attempt at using weathering powders and an experiment with some other bits. So have a good laugh and any comments will be treated as constructive.













Stu

Nice Stu, really good job on the water staining on the exterior render - what have you used to acheive that? Are those net curtains? I've tried previously but the gaps looked too big when I tried using old net curtains from round the house, what did you use?
I don't suppose you took step by step pics of the weathering as you applied did you? It's an area I'd particularly like to see explained on thread if you did.
So how's everyone else doing? Nick, have you done anymore with the external garage?
Mine is in a box currently hence my lack of progress as I'm a bit busy so my apologies for not keeping up or driving on with it. However, on the last pics I posted I was considering a flat roof with a lip; I'm thinking of some u shaped styrene section with mitred corners to form the lip. Pics and real world examples I've seen seem to have the lip between calf to knee height so I think 4-6mm seems right then drill drainage channels, which is why I'm interested in how Stu did the water stains.

Kind regards
Dave

StuB, Superb.
Others should not be shy though in posting, it is about the taking part and improving your skills, all efforts will be appreciated.
Although if I was taking part I might wait until there is a new page.
Looked at it again, that pavement is lovely

regards

Jaz

To try and answer some of the questions -

Sorry the only pictures I took are the ones shown here.

The simple one first - the net curtains are just a picture from Google - type Net curtains into the picture search. As I had no intention of lighting or detailing the inside of the house having something that totally blocks the view inside is ideal. They are just printed and spaced about 1mm behind the glazing. What doesn't show in the photos but did seem to work very well was the garage side window. I wanted it filthy so I made some very dilute sandy coloured paint (humbrol 121) and put a smeary wash over the inside, then with the brush fairly dry touched the middle of the panes, it really looks as if someone has just rubbed a patch of dust off.

Now the weathering. This really did turn out to be much easier than I thought. It is mainly done with a black powder with a bit of light brown mixed in to tone it down a bit. I initially apply the powder with a paint brush but that is not stiff enough to rub it in evenly so I used a Tamiya Weathering Sponge like this.



I have heard that makeup brushes work but I haven't tried one.

For the water stain from the drain pipe and the bottom of the garage doors I needed the colour to be much more intense so I used a paintbrush slightly wetted with a bit of white spirit. This makes the powder stick together and so is much denser. As the white spirit evaporates the edges can be feathered out with the sponge if required.

Along the bottom of the walls is some green powder but its not a great colour so I hid most of it with some green turf, might have to get a different colour.

I also used some mid grey powder in some areas just for a bit of variation. That is one of the main effects to try and get, lots of variation in shade and shape of the patches. But it is variation in shade not a rainbow of colours, There are only 4 colours for the bulk of this black, brown and grey with the bits of green around the bottom.

The window frames were done with very dilute matt black paint. This was mainly to put in the joints but a bit smeared on the frames also helps with the general griminess.

The most important thing with everything shown on this house is that there is no magic or special skill. It just needs a bit of care and patience and the willingness to give it a go. You also need to think ahead about the effect you want and what details you are going to add. As you can see the blocked up windows, the fallen off rendering (thats just made me think I should have had a pile of rendering on the ground), the paving and the doors all had to be planned before anything was constructed.

As for comments about feeling inadequate, just think that about 10 years ago I was happy making superquick kits so if I can change to this so can anybody. I wish I had found a forum like this where I could have picked up tips so if you want to ask any more questions please do. I can only say how I might do something, it doesn't mean its the best way as I still have a lot to learn.

Stu

Hi Stu.

Very Good!

If I was being "picky", I would ask...

Where is the drain for the kitchen sink?

I think that is the only piece missing?

Hi All...

Thanks to Norman, I now have a kit, and am working out how the internal layout should be for mine.

So far, I have also been modifying window holes, and using CAD (Card Aided Design! Connflake Box mock-ups) to help me visulise the space available.

You may be interested to know that this kit was used in a "Scenes From Life" piece by James Lavery in the May 2010 Hornby Magazine (Issue 35), where he made them as "under construction"...

He put the canopy over the front door on "back-to-front!" It must have been the moulding mark that is on the "Top" in my kit that made him thing that was the "bottom"?

QUOTE (StuB @ 31 Mar 2013, 19:09) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>I would love to see other peoples builds. There were some very promising ideas at the start of the project.

Stu

Hi Stu,

Like how the house turned out for you some really nice touches there i have done more but not very quickly as i said from the start my build is going to have the house as part of a dioramma scene, try to get more done on it this coming week & pictures of it's progress

Stu, congratulations.

The above photo is my favorite. Nice weathering.
A very good example of kit bashing.

Erkut

QUOTE (ebaykal @ 1 Apr 2013, 06:13) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>A very good example of kit bashing.

& the whole point (lost on some ) of the project.

Which reminds me - progress report on mine - basic sheel built & hopefully will be painted today, but so far, not worth a picture.

Which reminds me - progress report on .......7113 ?...........