QUOTE (34C @ 1 Sep 2008, 16:05)
<{POST_SNAPBACK}>Not seen this product yet, but a simple location which has worked for me in the past on similar items is to replace the chassis baseplate / keeper plate in lead sheet; or if this is not suitable in some way for replacement, to thin it down as much as possible and then glue on lead sheet. This puts the extra weight low down, never a bad idea. Evostick for choice as the adhesive, no reaction with the lead, strong enough but relatively easy to break the bond for removal should that ever be necessary. Paint the lead once installed, for your own and others protection.
Don't fiddle around with expensive commercial concoctions for your lead. Go to a builder's or plumber's merchant and buy a small piece of code 5 (N gauge) or code 7 (larger gauges) lead sheet. A merchant may well have an offcut handy, as many take back the offcuts for recycling. You get more density for your cash, and I have never known lead flashing to corrode when used in models, when you get it you will find it has a dark shiny surface and it stays that way. By comparison most lead shot has a matt light grey dusty appearance: that's lead oxide which is much less dense, and more readily absorbed into the environment to do damage as a toxin. If the sheet needs to be thinner for a particular application a few enoyable minutes with a hammer will produce it.
***Remington birdshot is actually also dark and shiny - I've never seen the light and dusty stuff, although I have no doubt that if its made for low cost, it'll be lesser quality.
I agree re using the sheet for most jobs by the way - I bought a couple of meters, and its lasted me for a very very long time.... it was an amazingly heavy wee parcel! I'd probably buy less now as lead was much cheaper before china decided they wanted all of it!! -
where locos can still come to grief with using sheet is via the rolling of sheet into a tube to go into a boiler.... When rolled tightly its already under some stress as its rolled, and a slight oxidisation + a high temperature shift expands it enough to distort the boiler - again the answer is don't pack it too tight, and do paint it all over to seal it.
Its better to buy a cheap pot, put it on the stove when nobody is looking and cast it to shape: That is, to a slug slightly smaller in idameter than the boiler it will fill....
Not hard to do - Use wood as a casting mould. First dry the wood thoroughly in the microwave (on defrost for a while does most of it it) then leave it at least a couple of days in the airing cupboard if U have one..... drill a hole the right size in the end grain of the block of wood with an Irwin or forstner type wood bit, and pour in the molten lead.
Drying it is very important - any water present and it'll explode the wood at worst, spatter molten lead or steam etc...
Have fun
Richard