[34C]

Not seen this product yet, but a simple location which has worked for me in the past on similar items is to replace the chassis baseplate / keeper plate in lead sheet; or if this is not suitable in some way for replacement, to thin it down as much as possible and then glue on lead sheet. This puts the extra weight low down, never a bad idea. Evostick for choice as the adhesive, no reaction with the lead, strong enough but relatively easy to break the bond for removal should that ever be necessary. Paint the lead once installed, for your own and others protection.

Don't fiddle around with expensive commercial concoctions for your lead. Go to a builder's or plumber's merchant and buy a small piece of code 5 (N gauge) or code 7 (larger gauges) lead sheet. A merchant may well have an offcut handy, as many take back the offcuts for recycling. You get more density for your cash, and I have never known lead flashing to corrode when used in models, when you get it you will find it has a dark shiny surface and it stays that way. By comparison most lead shot has a matt light grey dusty appearance: that's lead oxide which is much less dense, and more readily absorbed into the environment to do damage as a toxin. If the sheet needs to be thinner for a particular application a few enoyable minutes with a hammer will produce it.

 

[34C]

Hadn't thought of wood as a mould. I have used short lengths of steel pipe with a smear of grease on the inside, standing on a steel block. The cast lead just drops out. Precise diameter doesn't matter as lead is so malleable that adjustment with the 'Birmingham screwdriver' is a simple matter. Good point about not jamming a model shell tight with the lead, a loose sliding fit will both avoid risk of damage and ease subsequent removal should that be necessary.