You are adding unnecessary complexity. Try using the LS150 output with the pair of diodes to rectify (to half wave DC) exactly as the Lenz diagram for the point motor. I would be surprised if that did not operate the uncoupler adequately.
Advice sought on relays and associated electronic circuitry .
Hi , as a novice on electronics I need some advice as to whether a project started by my late father which I am trying to complete is viable as per the attached amateurish circuit diagram ( my one and not the Lenz one lol ) .I should explain that I am trying to operate 2 Seep N gauge electromagnetic uncouplers via 2 outputs of a Lenz LS150 accessory decoder and using 2 IN 4001 diodes as per the Lenz instructions to produce a 2 wire output as used for stall motor type points machines , the LS150 outputs approx 15 volts AC from it's initial 16 volts AC supply or rather I think it's an AC output but am not sure if the diodes rectify the current to DC ? ,I want to use the 2 LS150 outputs to trigger 2 non latching relays ( advice sought on type) to provide 18 volts DC to the 2 uncouplers from a seperate and dedicated 18 volt DC PSU , if the LS 150 is still outputting AC rather than DC with diodes in place ? I have a block signalling PSU1 device which can convert the AC to DC and offer 3 12 volt DC outputs to send the signal voltage to the relays , I hope this makes sense as my use of terminology is most likely incorrect ?.
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But you don't need a point motor to set addresses. Page 26 of the manual explains all. It's really neat, just set an address on the first output, and the other five are incremented +1 with unique addresses.
At this point I should add that unless you really really need remote uncoupling, I wouldn't bother using this or any other decoder. Typically uncoupling is performed in view of the operator, and a simply 'push to make' sprung button is all that is required to energise the uncoupler. My Kadee electromagnets are powered by depressing a piece of phosphor bronze strip onto a brass screw head to make the power circuit. This is cheap and simple.
At this point I should add that unless you really really need remote uncoupling, I wouldn't bother using this or any other decoder. Typically uncoupling is performed in view of the operator, and a simply 'push to make' sprung button is all that is required to energise the uncoupler. My Kadee electromagnets are powered by depressing a piece of phosphor bronze strip onto a brass screw head to make the power circuit. This is cheap and simple.
1 - 2 of 10 Posts
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