[double00]

Any reader own a Bachmann c170/5 three car DMU Turbo Star 1st Group Scotrail?
Information as to this model running good/bad points would be most appreciated and in general, if it is worth buying?

question:

 

[neil_s_wood]

I've got two. The regular Scotrail one and the SPT one. They are good. Detail is fine and they run well. The Scotrail one is the older Scotrail with the whoosh livery, which I think is far better than the First one, but it is the same loco different livery. Has directional lights too. Unfortunately I haven't been able to run them for a while as I have not yet converted them to DCC yet. They are in the queue and will get done soon. I would recommend them.

The bad point is that it will be a b

r to convert to dcc.

Also the close coupler on the SPT one broke fairly easily. This hasn't happened on the Scotrail one though.

 

[double00]

My sincere thanks for your observations, most appreciated.
Bachmann couplings apparently are the weakest parts on their models. I have the Bachmann c158 Intercity Scotrail (not the current model now on sale) - the coupling snapped (a very flimsly piece of plastic joins the coupling to the chasis) and required a new retaining wheel plate assembly Pt.500-123b at a cost of £11.

 

[neil_s_wood]

It's a real shame they dropped the whoosh livery. I was really dissapointed when First changed the livery to the new blue one. I guess thats the way it will be with privatisation. We will get different liveries every couple of years. Before I adopted DCC these were two of my favourite trains.

 

[double00]

Another weakness worth the mention, that relates to Bachmann c158. The extra thin wire soldered to each power pickup strips, are easily broken when working on the bogies. It is most fortunate that each bogy has a power strip fitted each side, this enables power take up to continue in the event of one or even two wires severed from the strips.
Resoldering wires is a complete headache, soldering broken wire direct to the strip will certainly cause the plastic to melt from applied heat. Removing the minute screw holding the strip, is certainly most fiddly.
Perhaps someone has mastered a better method to replace the conductor wire to the motor connection.