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an update on my bench.

137774 Views 919 Replies 75 Participants Last post by  7113
at the moment i have my usual mixture of stock!

3 test etches for the 3 types of maunsell TPO's being made up. for the first time i am going to try and represent the panelling on the sides. to my knowlage this has never been done.

5 Ratio GWR 4 wheelers nearly done. i have to do the interiors and send it off to have the transfers done (i dont do transfers!)

4 LMS arc roof bogie coaches they are just in their black undercoat which dosent show up very clearly.

And an LNER quad art

I hope the person who called me a "Trainset player" on the other thread is taking notes!

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As the designer of the Strath kit, can I add my congratulations on getting it together so well. Not an easy kit to build (I wouldn't sell this kit to anyone who hadn't built at least a few etched kits) but you seem to have cracked the assembly problems. I must get on and finish the trial etch!!

Alistair Wright
'5522' Models

PS this kit is still available from Lochgorm Kits. They have a web site.

PPs I still have lots of LMS kits and bits mostly coaching stock. List available from [email protected]
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I perhaps should have mentioned that Lochgorm took over all my Highland kits. There are kits for the 'Duke' and 'Loch' and several HR bogie coaches etc. Some of these are available in 7mm scale as well.

You must get a decent set of taper broaches if you are ever to get good results with coupling rods never mind valve gear. I bought a set that go from 0.2mm to 2mm and I would not part with them. You can get clearances between hole and pin down to a few thou with no difficulty. You will never do this with drills as even if you had the right size it would wobble and make an oval hole. There is nothing more satisfying than getting a complete set of Walschaerts gear running without any slop.
Why are you doing LMS coach ends? I have sets of etchings for all the types (PI PII and PIII) at GBP2 per pair. These suit Comet and 247 Developments sides. I can send you a list of '5522' coach parts if you pm me your email address.

If you send me your address I'll send you a sample of my coach ends - they couldn't be simpler to assemble. As for LMS coach roofs there is nothing to beat aluminium extrusion for which I could tell you a source.

You can pm me at [email protected]


PS can anyone remind me how you 'quote' from someone else's message? I used to know but have forgotten and there is no 'help' button.
QUOTE (pedromorgan @ 17 Jan 2011, 17:39) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>Now for the Bloomer.

Each tender axle box/spring assembly is made up of 10 pieces! Its very booring! But alas I decided to get on with it and finished the first pair.

This is a classic case of using the WRONG technique to produce parts. Solid items like springs and axleboxes should be CAST not etched. I don't know whose kit this is but I would certainly avoid this producer if this is his idea of kit production.

I have only ever used etchings in this way to produce a pattern for casting - it is a good way of getting very accurate patterns made, but no way should you have to do it six times over!!

If I was you Pedro I would send one of your assembled axleboxes to a caster and get him to knock off the set, and while he is at it do a few extra to sell to other unfortunates who have bought this kit. I am appalled.
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QUOTE (jukebox @ 8 Nov 2011, 01:14) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>.......+grief-to-get-Walschaerts-working-sweetly

What's the problem with Walschaerts? Outside Stephenson link, as in 4767, might give you a few interesting moments, but there isn't all that much to good old Walschaerts. As most folk build it in mid gear it is really quite easy. Myself, I prefer making the whole thing work which takes a bit longer, as most cast cylinders are not meant to have working valve spindles. It looks a whole lot better though if the gear is fully working. The key to getting good operation is to understand how the gear actually works and there are books and articles telling you this. If Hornby and Bachmann can do it (albeit with return cranks on the wrong way round and flimsy parts) you can too. Try it. Your 71000 showed that you are a fearless modeller. If you tell me which bits you are worried about I will show you how to get over the problems.
QUOTE (pedromorgan @ 6 Mar 2012, 12:32) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>.......My wife recently got an electric piano and part of the deal was that for my birthday I got a Millbro pendant drill! My birthday is still months away but I saw one going on Ebay and won it!
This is the Rolls-Royce of drills! Its built like a tank and the ones I have tried in the past are amazingly smooth and nearly silent.


My wife got an electric piano as well recently (Yamaha Clavinova CLP240 - cost a bomb) but I didn't get a drill - maybe I should ask? Being as I'm ex Rolls-Royce I ought to have a good drill. Where did you get it? My old Dremel is showing its age.
QUOTE (alberta @ 14 Mar 2012, 14:20) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>Can it be safely said then that this kit has been the worst one you have built ???? My poor Nelson lets hope the Black 5 is a joyful task.


Depends on which Black 5 kit you are talking about. The DJH one has a disaster chassis. The Gibson has bodywork issues. The K's is very old and out of date. I found the best combination was Alan's chassis (designed by Tattershall - a designer for whom I have great respect) with the DJH body, and my 5473 is like that. Having said this, why anyone working in 00 gauge would want to build a kit baffles me. The new Hornby '5' (in six variants I think) with a bit of extra work gets you the best looking one at about a fifth of the price of the kit version. I have seven '5's on the layout (north of Scotland) two kit built and the rest are Hornby. No-brainer.
QUOTE (pedromorgan @ 14 Mar 2012, 14:55) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>Alberta it is easily the worst I have ever built.

Alistair he is talking about a certain brassmasters kit tucked away at the back of my cupboard!


A kit too far in my opinion. Makes a great exhibition standard model, but too fragile for general bashing on the layout. I have two of them in stock which I doubt I will ever build now, particularly as it has problems if built in 00. It was designed for P4 and it shows. I think this is why I have been slow to start on them. Any offers?
Coming back to the Nelson: what was the main problem? Chassis or body. if it was the chassis I could design a replacement for it as I have done for two DJH kits. Not particularly cheap, but compared with the time wasted on trying to sort out a poor chassis money well spent, and you get a nicer product.

I think a lot of modeller's fail to do this price vs time sum when considering maybe two kits for the same thing. I always factor this in - mind you I haven't built many kits other than my own make for the last 20 years or so, and when I have, my wife closes the door to the lounge on account of the language. The HR Yankee tank and the CR 'beetlecrusher' are ranked high in the number of expletives/minute of which she keeps a records.
QUOTE (pedromorgan @ 14 Mar 2012, 18:22) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>....In the end I have thrown away the chassis and got a comet one but the problem then is that it doesn't fit the body!



Sounds very like the DJH Big Goods from the chassis point of view. DJH castings are always quite good and it up well.

Why does the Comet chassis not fit the body? Is there another possible body to which it might fit? A Horlicks is putting it mildly - luckily I have never encountered this kit. In the case of the DJH Big Goods I designed the new chassis to suit the bodywork as it existed. This meant compromises on wheelbases as these HR locos had two sets of drivers too close to allow a scale distance when 4mm flanges came into play. as the chassis was intended to suit P4 and EM it had to be compensated, which is no light undertaking for a 4-6-0 to be built by ordinary mortals. Seems to work OK though I did build mine in 16.5mm rigid. Runs well and with full thickness rods etc, looks very nice.
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Oh Oh, Big trouble - my photo attachments are not what I intended!!! Can anyone tell me how to:
a) remove them (by editing)
b)empty the box where you manage your uploads?
QUOTE (dwb @ 14 Mar 2012, 20:08) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>And here's me thinking I'd like to build a chassis....
something with full outside valve gear and big wheels - a sort of clock on wheels.....


You mean like this one?

View attachment 3010
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I have four as well. Three Staniers and one Fairburn. One of the Staniers is a Gibson kit - the one in the photo - which has full working Walschaerts valvegear, two others are Hornby and one is a Bachmann. 2474 was one of my favourites. I used to ride home from school on the footplate whenever it was on my train. One of my 'honorary' uncles was a driver and in those days locos were allocated to two crews only and kept immaculate. Mummy wasn't very pleased at the effect these trips had on my clothes though.
QUOTE (pedromorgan @ 15 Mar 2012, 08:55) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>I actually rather like the pics so i will leave them there

For the Goods did you turn down the driver or did you manage to find a flangeless one from somewhere?
I want to have a go at a couple of broad gauge loco's that had flangeless drivers but without a lathe its going to be tricky.


They are nice pictures of 103 which I used to each my lunch in the cab of when I was a pupil at St Rollox. I'll get the hang of this pictures business eventually. See the pm I sent you.

I used Romford drivers on the Big Goods which you can get flangeless (or you could at one time). The bogie wheels are the clever ones though. You can't get an 8 spoke bogie wheel, but it so happens that the wheel size is the same as a wagon wheel, so I just got two axles of those and chopped the pin point ends off. Not my idea - it came from a friend in Botswana who is modelling the Highland. I have a 'Castle' similarly equipped.
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QUOTE (pedromorgan @ 15 May 2012, 14:17) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>This was the result of an evening let loose with an airbrush!


Ah! you mean one like this:

Train Rolling stock Vehicle Railway Rolling


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