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an update on my bench.

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10
at the moment i have my usual mixture of stock!

3 test etches for the 3 types of maunsell TPO's being made up. for the first time i am going to try and represent the panelling on the sides. to my knowlage this has never been done.



5 Ratio GWR 4 wheelers nearly done. i have to do the interiors and send it off to have the transfers done (i dont do transfers!)




4 LMS arc roof bogie coaches they are just in their black undercoat which dosent show up very clearly.


And an LNER quad art





I hope the person who called me a "Trainset player" on the other thread is taking notes!

Peter
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>i took a look at a 10 kit set for a full cornish riviera express
I look forward to seeing how these build up as I admire your coach building skills.


David
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I have now updated my panel diagram with connection details in preparation for actually wiring it all up. There aren't many spare from the 180 available:-

Rectangle Slope Font Line Red


David

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I agree with MMaD - stunning looking work.

>LMS set made from ratio coaches.
I guess these are plastic not metal? If so I might give them a go.

David
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Beautiful paint and lining jobs as ever Peter


>there was no mahogany paint
You'll be after tartan paint next


David
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That's a fascinating piece of kit Peter!

As I have not (yet) tried to put a chassis together for myself I have had to reread your description of what you did a few times to work out how this jig helped, so do you mind if I give you my version to see if I have understood you correctly?

It looks like the jig has mounts for up to 5 axles.

The W1 is a 4-6-4 so you put three alignment "pins" through three mounts, ie one for each driving axle. The ends of the alignment "pins" are small enough to fit through the holes in the conrods.

Then you adjusted the position of the mounts on the longitudinal axis of the jig using the conrods to fix the positions.

Now you take some alignment pins which have the same diameter as the axles of your loco and extend them at least the width of the chassis plus a few mills.

Next you try to slide the chassis onto these extended pins and find that one of the bearings is in the wrong place.

You remove the misaligned bearing and enlarge the mounting hole.

You place the chassis (minus the misaligned bearing) back on the jig and then slide the bearing back against the frame at which point you solder it in its new position

I'm a bit hazy on what you did next, but I'm guessing that the important work has been done - all the axles are at right angles to the frames and are the same distance apart as the conrods. The only forces acting on the wheel set should be through the conrods.

Am I close?

David
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Thanks for that additional information. I've filed it away for future reference, but first I must finish the track it's going to run on....

QUOTE I am rather fortunate in being relativly young and so i am hopeing to get 50 years use out of it.

I was having that very same thought when I picked up my rip saw which I bought 25 years ago for about £25. Only another 25 years and I'll be happy


David
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Nice work Peter


Can anybody explain why the LNWR chose that particular pattern of wheel construction?

David
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QUOTE the tender makes up for it.

Is this because there were no water troughs on the Southern?

David
Lovely paint job Peter


David
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That Nelson does look good Peter!


David
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Please don't say the Nelson valve gear is a pig to do because I really want to do a Fowler 2-6-4T or a V2 chassis and that means valve gear...

David
Thanks for the reassurance Peter. I'll definitely have to give it a go.

David
QUOTE I have some liquid lead that i could put in with PVA but i have heard and seen some very bad stories involving this stuff. the bad stories were because it was in a completly enclosed space but i am thinking that it will only be a small ammount in the top of the boiler i think it will be ok.
Any other suggestions? the weight needs to go in the top of the boiler above the motor.

My experience is that the PVA / Lead mixture needs room to expand regardless of whether it is in an enclosed space or not. I have a five plank open wagon which is now a three sided wagon due to the lead expanding and popping the seam. I also have a variety of pot bellied closed Parkside vans.

I haven't come up with a solution to this yet. I know from previous posts that the preferred method is to get solid lead sheets or blocks and beat it into shape with a large hammer. For liquid lead, I am considering making "ingots" of PVA and liquid lead which are smaller than the target space. I think I could make the formers from card which could be stripped away later or just allowed to burst. The trouble is I don't know how much expansion to allow.

Judging by the chunk that came out of the five plank wagon, there does appear to be a limit on how much expansion takes place.

David
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QUOTE I am wondering if i can get away with it in this case. the space is a hemicylinder

From my observation, it seems the mix will try to expand in three dimensions. I guess if two of those dimensions can resist a strong force then all the deformation will occur in the third. If you could keep the mix away from the ends of your enclosure, you probably would get away with it. I think I would try to source some solid lead first though.

I wonder if you could smelt the liquid lead into ingots? It's not something I'd like to try but some people make model soldiers or orcs that way, though probably not with liquid lead as the starting point?

David
QUOTE I fixed some liquid lead into some Super Glue and had no problems with expansion.(might want to give it a go on something less precious first, it may not work for you)

What sort of quantity of lead / glue did you use? The expansion problem is due to the water / PVA reacting with the lead. I guess that super glue doesn't cause a reaction or not in your case anyway.

David
Seeing as how we're on the subject of valve gear, do you mind if I ask you guys - Peter and 34C - how you fettle the holes in the bits of gear? I used progressively larger drill bits on my plain 0-6-0 and it's ended in disaster. Should I have used good quality broaches instead?

David
Thanks both for that info.

David
I love tools and gadgets. I'm interested to see how you get on.

For tarnished surfaces, you're going to need a liquid which can attack the tarnish?

David
QUOTE I only have 54 evenings left!

I think the sleep deprivation is getting to you.. it's not much more than that many hours...


Don't rush, it's looking good so far....

David
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QUOTE Video footage of the W1!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Crumbs !

I didn't realise that they called it "Hush hush" because it was totally silent


Are those drivers really 6' 8"? It's the first time I've ever seen such tall wheels made to look so small.

Interesting to note the turntable been started off by hand?

A remarkable piece of film.

David
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