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Discussion Starter · #21 ·
As requested here are some better pictures to show the process.
once again i am sorry for the poor camera. i asure you it is the camera and not my photography!
also the pictures dont show the colours very well. they are far pailer than they look in these pictures.

To start with sort out a paint palett (ignore the mess thats on there already. (thats left over from yesterday) some general purpouse thinners and the 2 teak paints.


Next give them a really good stir. (i dont know why i took a picture of this but as i did here it is!)


Put a blob of each paint on the palett and some thinner in one of the little pots.


using a decent brush start to mix a little of each paint.



Getting a very small ammount on the brush take a couple of strokes from aeft to right. this leaves a build up next to the beading.


take a stroke the other way go get rid of the build up and finish off the stroke. if the streaks havent formed properly then now is the time to fix it.


then its just a case of keep going untill your done or you get bored or you are just too tired.






here is a sample i did previously. i did one side in traditional golden teak and the other side i wanted a far more weathered look so i did the same process but used GWR brown instead of the golden teak.
for the BR era and before they were painted i think the latter is a far more accurate if far less desirable look.

In the case of the golden teak the lining was done with a bow pen.

 

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he he!! like hornby i too am having a period of consolidation! the TPO's should be gone by the weekend and the quad will follow soon after. the red TPO's you can see wrapped up are all but done apart from the bogies.

the 2NOL thats upside down in the last picture should also be gone soon. i was very happy with it when i made it. but time and my skills have moved on.

Peter
 

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Discussion Starter · #29 ·
its all quiet on my bench at the moment. most of the stock i am currently working on (the SR TPO's and the quad) are on display up at the notingham show. (i wish i was there rather than sitting in this dingy office!).

Last night i took a look at a 10 kit set for a full cornish riviera express that arrived a couple of weeks ago.
They are phoenix kits and so the doors needed scribing (i understand newer kits have this already done) it was no big deal and i had it done in about an hour.

I might have a go at sticking a couple together over the next couple of days.
Because they are phoenix coaches, they have punched aluminium sides and have to be stuck together rather than soldered.
it will be the first time i have attempted this. Working neatly with epoxy is not my strong point!

Peter
 

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>i took a look at a 10 kit set for a full cornish riviera express
I look forward to seeing how these build up as I admire your coach building skills.


David
 

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I have now updated my panel diagram with connection details in preparation for actually wiring it all up. There aren't many spare from the 180 available:-

Rectangle Slope Font Line Red


David
 

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Discussion Starter · #32 ·
I took some picturea last night of the cornish set.

The 10 kits as they arrived


The typical contents of each kit. there is underframe but no underframe detail like bogies trussing boxes etc..


these are the older phoenix kits. the newer ones have the doors ready scribed but the older ones dont. this is how they came.


Ok this bit was a bit difficult to take pictures of because i dont have a third hand and my camera is crap. (i am saving up for the new Nikon!) you have to imagine the next to pictures hapenning at the same time!
I put the scriber point exactly where i want the line and slide the set square along the coach side untill it rests against the scriber. then its just a simple case of 2 strokes with the scriber.
any scriber would have done but i had the fancy Tamiya one i bought last week and i wanted to give it a try. also i thought it might be better on the soft aluminium.



then i threw out the instructions and decided to glue 1 end and 1 side seperatly. i think this is a better idea than messing about with blocks of wood as the instructions sugest.



And thats as far as i got so far.

Peter
 

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Very interesting. I've got a couple of Phoenix /BSL kits second hand in the cupboard as intended first coach kits (Well they were cheap and could fit well with something I've got involved with ) The need to scribe doors was worrying me slightly . A trip to Model Zone for a Tamiya scrawker seems in order

What gauge is the Quad Art set ?
 

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Peter, The work looks bloody exceptional. I'll have to try my hand at a couple of coaches and see what happens. Just got my GWR 61XX from Southeastern Finecast so that's my next project. Perhaps a I'll try SW DIgital GWR decoder in it as well.

Ozzie21

QUOTE (dwb @ 17 Mar 2007, 20:08) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>>i took a look at a 10 kit set for a full cornish riviera express
I look forward to seeing how these build up as I admire your coach building skills.


David
 

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Discussion Starter · #35 ·
QUOTE (Ravenser @ 18 Mar 2007, 22:20) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>Very interesting. I've got a couple of Phoenix /BSL kits second hand in the cupboard as intended first coach kits (Well they were cheap and could fit well with something I've got involved with ) The need to scribe doors was worrying me slightly . A trip to Model Zone for a Tamiya scrawker seems in order

What gauge is the Quad Art set ?

Great dig them out and give them a go. i would be happy to help in any way i can.
The quad. good question about the gauge. probably OO but i wouldnt rule anything out!
I was worried about scribing the doors but it was really no big deal. the bad news is that the scriber in the pics was the last one model zone had!! he he (sorry!)

Ozzie i find getting a good finish on a coach almost as rewarding as doing a loco. and its a hell of a lot easier and cheaper! go on, give it a go!!

I have been working on my stained glass porjects for the last couple of days but i hope to have some more pictures tomorrow.

Peter
 

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I agree with MMaD - stunning looking work.

>LMS set made from ratio coaches.
I guess these are plastic not metal? If so I might give them a go.

David
 
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