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Just another modeller
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QUOTE (Makemineadouble @ 6 Feb 2008, 00:35) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>I ran something similar on my Colliery,**** thing always seemed to stall somewhere, I think you might be a bit ambitious with this one

what I said about heat generation still applies.


***Micro can work well but needs treating with kid gloves....

My favourite Micro install is in a tiny L&Y 0-4-0 pug. The Micro is in the cab glued to the back head and I painted it black and ran a couple of lenghts of copper wire down it and glued on a couple of gauges/control wheels and a regulator handle.... The 1 x 16mm speaker is tucked away at cab floor level in a tiny box, but is not noticeeable with the footplate crew either side of it (each short one leg as their "stumps" stand on the box between them :).

whan I re-chassis this with a hi-level chassis I'll probably put two 16mm's between the chassis sides.....

As You said MMAD - pickup is a witch to get right on a tiny loco but a couple of fine rail wiping pickups painted black look very like sandpipes..... and are almost invisible anyway - this added power pickup makes all the difference.

The important thing - the single 16mm is actually only 50 ohms - so the micro is heavily loaded - therefore volume is set to no more than 80% as a "safe" max to prevent stressing the audio amplifier!

Richard
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Just another modeller
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QUOTE (Charley Farley Trelawney @ 6 Feb 2008, 18:16) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>Will 'any' of the loksound wrappers melt with prolonged use or were you just making reference to this particular one/

cheers

CFT

*** Actually I've never seen a loksound or LokPilot thats been properly installed melt anything.

They are built well and have a reasonable amount of overload protection built into them. They are certainly far harder to kill than a lenz gold decoder - I find these relatively unreliable and almost always "hot running" ....and that guarantees their death eventually!

The only way this will happen with Loksound is
(a) too low an impedance (less than 50 ohms) on the speaker circuit causing the amp to overheat.
(
installing it in a loco with too high an average running current (1 amp plus)
or perhaps
© installing it on a motor that will get hot.
the final one will melt any decoder heatshrink - and kill the decoder.
(d) wiring it wrongly in the first place.

All are No-no's for any installation.

In case you wonder how I know this, again this week I'll install more than 20 of them yet again, all in different locomotive types from US brass to standard rtr plastic and in scales from N to O. Most with special speaker install work and/or customised sound files... None will run hot, none will fail.

Richard
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Just another modeller
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QUOTE (Makemineadouble @ 6 Feb 2008, 20:22) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>I certainly don't claim that volume of sound installs, as I don't do it as a full time business (it takes the fun out of things) but I do handle a fair few. (2 or 3 a week when I'm motivated !) I normally set the sound up a couple notches higher than I would like as that's what the average punter wants. They get an instruction sheet and almost the first instruction is how to set the sound a bit softer !. My own layout is 100% sound, but I don't want it blasting me out of my stool
there's nothing worse. I only do steam installs and spend a lot of time just getting the motion to match the sound, as I don't use cams, that's interesting and very good fun.


I agree re the sound - A sane modeller slowly turns it down so its at a sensible level - whats good at an exhibition is quickly torture to live with in the quiet of the layout room! And yes, it can make the odd week good to be over with... too much of a good thing is still too much, even if it is playing with trains :).

Richard
 

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QUOTE (PaulRhB @ 6 Feb 2008, 22:38) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>Oh yes matching chuff to wheels isn't half fun! I thought it would be easy on the rollers but they roll too freely so the timing's out when you put it on the track, so it was back to on track setup.
I've only installed tsunami's and lgb stuff with sound before so the micro is my first esu install although I've used pre-installed ones already. I use a couple of spots of double sided foam tape designed for outdoors and electrical applications to secure the decoder.
This has two advantages, first it's quick, (and you have to cut the foam to get them off again as the glue is very good)
Second it allows air to get right round the decoder as long as you use two small bits rather than one big piece.
I also use insulating tape to protect any metal exposed to the chip to prevent any chance of a short if it did come loose.
I'm going to have a play later and see how I get on.

Hi Paul

I cheat a bit with the setting up if the loco is to be run with a reasonably constant train size. I oil the rails and put a nail through a small foam block between them... I then run the loco against this and use the "under load back EMF" as the reference - that way, its usually pretty good when I layout =test it, with only the tinyest final fiddle needed. (this is also a good way to "run in under light load")

Have fun

Richard
 
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