[Allegheny1600]

Hello Babs,
Oh my! That is quite a project, I'm very pleased for you.
I bet you'll be glad when everything settles down and you can enjoy the layout.
All the best,
John.

 

[Allegheny1600]

QUOTE (Babz @ 28 Oct 2016, 11:13) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>Hi Reddo, Probably the only reason i will start running trains before you is i am retired and can devote more time. Can i ask a stupid Question ? I am doing the BUS for the DCC and that is fine. Can you do a Similar thing for DC for 2 Loops effectively I have no idea Help. Babs

Hi Babs,
Of course you can!!
Exactly the same principle as with the digital system - a lot of folk do this kind of thing with outdoor layouts as it helps with voltage drop.
It does mean that anything fed from the analogue bus is effectively 'live' (whenever the controller is 'on') but you can always install 'local' section switches if you need to isolate anything from the bus.
This is how I built my layout that was a tester for a digital system waay back some 12 years ago and what convinced me to go all out digital!

All I would say is: make 100% sure you cannot mix the two systems as that would be dangerous and expensive.
Hope This Helps,
John.

 

[Allegheny1600]

Hi Babs,
Wow, that does look complicated but well worthwhile, I'm "chuffed" for you.
Looking forward to seeing you get some trains running.
Cheers,
John.

 

[Allegheny1600]

Hi Babs,
This is one area where I would actually choose chipboard!
It's cheap and available in different thicknesses as well as easy to cut with a jigsaw, easy to carve out ramps too. Just a thought.
Can't help with platform height or width though, sorry. I'd probably just go with whatever looks right on your layout.
Good to see you posting again,
John.

 

[Allegheny1600]

Hi Babs,
I presume that this is to be more or less permanently fixed in place once assembled?
If so, get a couple of say, 6" 'G' clamps - you can use these to gently/loosely hold the boards together while you get the boards aligned. Then tighten the G clamps.
Once they are aligned and clamped tight, you can then drill through the timbers of each frame where the clamps are (adjacent to them) with say, a 6.5mm drill bit, withdraw the bit and use a 6mm bolt to clamp everything up, then remove the clamps and move on to the next joint.
NOTE: Use large washers to spread the load on the wood and I like to use wing-nuts rather than hexagonal nuts so I can hand tighten and loosen such nuts but I have quite powerful hands through many years of manual work! If using hexagonal nuts with a spanner, be sure to not overtighten!
I hope this helps,
John.