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Discussion Starter · #41 ·
Good Morning Everyone, I have been Mulling over The Pro's and Cons Of Plastic Platform Kits or Making a Plywood One Piece Instead What I cannot find is there a Standard Width In Swiss And German Or are they all Different. As Most of my Swiss SBB Rakes will be Average 6feet Long I can Cut Plywood That Length and Get Seem Less Length. What Do you Think Good Idea or Not. ??
Babs
 

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You could always use the Metcalfe card kits as they can be built to any length and curve if you need it. Alot lighter than plywood.

There are sevel platform kits as well from Vollmer and Faller eg Baden Baden which includes the island type canopies as well.

A bit subjective as I prefer kits anyway. I dont have details on heights but I guess you could rserach some preferred locations

BTW - I think you may have removed your above images locations?
 

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Discussion Starter · #43 ·
Hi Reddo, Thank You for your reply, I will do a little research Thank You. regarding Images I have Changed to Flickr now And Deleted all my Images in Photobucket. Thanks. Babz
 

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Hi Babs,
This is one area where I would actually choose chipboard!
It's cheap and available in different thicknesses as well as easy to cut with a jigsaw, easy to carve out ramps too. Just a thought.
Can't help with platform height or width though, sorry. I'd probably just go with whatever looks right on your layout.
Good to see you posting again,
John.
 

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Discussion Starter · #46 ·
Hi John Thank You for the Reply, I was thinking Along the Lines of Plywood And Getting it machine Cut for Straightness I have seen a Few on You Tube Layouts and they look Quite Good It would be Less money as well As I would get Several Platforms done at one Time. A bit of Planning needed. I am Very Very Disappointing that Fleischmann Giving Up HO Though I am Worried about Track Availability Have Written to them Today by Email. Let see what Transpires. Babs
 

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Hi Babs,
I think it is down to your preference regarding design, cost etc.
Personally, I purchased the Faller 11009 Bahnhof Waldbrunn and 3 or 4 FALLER 120204 covered platforms to match the station, then cut/adapted them to make up my 5 platform station.

" I am Worried about Track Availability Have Written to them Today by Email. Let see what Transpires."

I wouldn't worry too much about that Babs, I can still pick up the old Fleischmann brass Modell Track on eBay (boxed and unused from a few model shops in Germany and other European countries)
Regards
Alan
 

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Discussion Starter · #48 ·
Good morning Everyone, I have been working Very Hard to Lighten my Upper section Baseboards as they were made too Heavy, Now I have to Find a Great method that is Accurate to Join them All together making sure that the tops for laying the track are all Level. there are four baseboards 2 are 10 inch wide by 4 feet long each and the next 2 are 4 ft x 14 inches Does anybody have a great way of fixing them together that is easy. Thanking You in Advance.
Babs
 

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Hi Babs,
I presume that this is to be more or less permanently fixed in place once assembled?
If so, get a couple of say, 6" 'G' clamps - you can use these to gently/loosely hold the boards together while you get the boards aligned. Then tighten the G clamps.
Once they are aligned and clamped tight, you can then drill through the timbers of each frame where the clamps are (adjacent to them) with say, a 6.5mm drill bit, withdraw the bit and use a 6mm bolt to clamp everything up, then remove the clamps and move on to the next joint.
NOTE: Use large washers to spread the load on the wood and I like to use wing-nuts rather than hexagonal nuts so I can hand tighten and loosen such nuts but I have quite powerful hands through many years of manual work! If using hexagonal nuts with a spanner, be sure to not overtighten!
I hope this helps,
John.
 

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Discussion Starter · #50 ·
John Good Evening. Thank You for that.That is the way i will proceed. i am waiting for some Adjustable Leg work Horses to Arrive i may be able to prepare some parts before they arrive. Thank You. I have sent You Pm.
Regards
Babs
 

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Hello Everyone, Its a long time since i posted on my loft layout, Due to circumstances well beyond my control things took a big backward step regarding the Loft ladder, That not only Buckled and the the Person who came to sort it left it in a Very compromised situation and the Loft ladder fell out again when i tried to stow it.. It then went through a large Glass Lampshade hit me on the Shoulder and some fragments of Glass went into my eye. It was successfully removed with no lasting damage
I cannot go into the next part as there is a Possible legal Action against a Carpenter. Enough said.
Sadly that has taken nearly 2 years of which for a year we did not have access to the loft.

Because of the delays i have decided to simplify the Layout I would like to increase the Height of the Baseboards and make it all one level and have the full length of the Loft and this is in the main due to time shortage.

Since we have been in Locked down I have achieved a lot I have fitted 5 decoders to some Loks Started using Woodland Scenic's Track underlay to deaden the noise factor which was quite a lot on Baseborads with profi Fleschmann Track. I would highly recommend the Underlay very easy to use I have cut out 12 points and 2 x 3 way points as well as putting some underlay under radius 3 & 4 Curves using Copydex which someone on this forum did recommend and very good indeed. You never know what is round the corner.

I hope everyone is Safe and Well
Kind regards
Babs
 

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Goodness me what a saga Babs.

As one who has struggled with installation of loft ladders in the past I can sympathise. The first one I did was a folding wooden one and all went well. In the next house I tried to fit a metal sliding one and it proved to be a nightmare. In the end I ripped it out and used a step ladder which we stored in the spare bedroom ....... believe it or not much safer. Now I live in a house with limited loft space so I have no need of loft ladders, now reverting, when needed to once again using a step ladder.

Your advice on underlay is good as there is nothing worse than a noisy loft railway which can reverberate throughout the house. I settled on cork sheets some years ago but I'm not sure if this is for the best. Anyway it's what I do. Proper underlay that is designed for specific types of track is probably better ..... which is what you've used.

I remeber your baseboard height being quite low and that would really cause me problems. I gave up servicing my own car because I was fed up laying on my back feeling nauseous gazing up at begrimed brake discs and rusted exhausts so when setting up my layout in the garage I put it on very tall legs so that i can comfortably sit in a chair underneath the baseboards. For the next stage I will be routing all wires in a conduit along the edge the base boards so that once I have point motor and feed cables installed all other work can be achieved with going underneath. Time will tell how effective this will prove to be.

Well done with the decoder installation. I should be tackling some of my old Brawa models that have no decoder socket but I'm just to lazy. I need to get motivated.

Stay safe and take care of yourself.

Best regards ...................... Greyvoices (alias John)
 

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Wow, what a nightmare, hope everything gets sorted out.
I use a metal sliding ladder that I fitted myself about 30 years ago, still going strong

I used 6mm fibre board (think that's what it was called) for my underlay
Regards
Alan
 

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Hello Babs,
You certainly seem to have had a very unfortunate run of events, not to mention the injuries, but it sounds like, and hopefully is the case that that long awaited perverbial corner has been turned (legal matters apart), and you can continue to progress and enjoy your Loft model railway(s).
Have now read through your layout thread, thank you for the recent post, as had not realised it existed; and sounds like you have a fantastic space available; will look forward to seeing some pics too; shame the original ones are no longer viewable too.
It also sounds like you have a wonderful collection of engines / stock, which we also look forward to seeing; together with the recently posted Deltics / etc.
Great you have also recently made such good progress on various fronts, and as has already been mentioned, are gaining confidence all the time. Along as can be seen assisting others - the Forum is very good on that front, have always felt.
On a final note for now, have you now gone with a single Height for your baseboards, given by the sounds of it, the significant extended loft space you now have - and out of interest what is the height you have / are going for ?
Happy modelling and stay safe, Cheers Norm
 

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Discussion Starter · #55 ·
Hi Everyone & Thank you for your replies, Norman I am going to increase the Height of the Baseboards to 25 inches this is an increase of 5 inches I however have a Dilemma Each leg will need replacing or add another section to Each Leg by cutting a section and inserting a piece by Gorrila Gluing, The bottom part will still have a variable adjustment and near the top part will still have the Hole to fasten the Bolts to the Baseboard, what do you think. In the pictures the baseboard over to the right is the start of the extra section i cannot lower the back piece anymore because of the water tank and pipes ( I wish i could ) that would be the easiest way.





Or the alternative is replace every leg with a new one which IMHO would make a lot of Extra work.

Alanoes I know you are also using Fleischman Profi Track how did you extend your point motor wires , did you solder or another type of connection i would be interested to know thank you.

John When we did the Baseboards i made sure there were Slits along at different intervals but not in the latest parts that you can see in the Pics above so that feeder wires and point wires cold be connected to a Bus running along the layout, I know Mr Johnson sells bus wire wound already how important is this, for me it could make it difficult to attach dropper wires with connectors as i am reluctant to do soldering up in the loft for safety reasons.

I would love to hear your thoughts.
Thank You
Babs
 

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Just a random thought Babs ....................

............ another option could be to leave your existing baseboards as they are and just add elevated track sections on top. This would entail constructing a simple board shaped roughly to accommodate your track diagram ........ this could be constructed downstairs in sections ..... even with track already laid before you take it up to the loft. Holding the "trackboard" 5 or 6 inches above the baseboard would then be a simple matter of mounting it on short, stumpy leg sections only 5 inches in height. You could even sort out droppers and point motor wiring downstairs.

The existing baseboards would then provide you with the opportunity to have "rolling countryside," cuttings, embankments, viaducts or, perhaps, you could construct a station building board downstairs at your leisure which in turn could be placed on your existing baseboard but also employing the short, stumpy 5 inch leg method. Scenery can easily be built up with polystyrene blocks (free supply with packaging) or by using the chicken wire covered in paper mache or other material method. I did this years ago and was very pleased with the result ....... a cutting through the East Anglian Heights, built up in my loft ..... oh 4 houses ago. If only I had taken photographs.

As I said, just some random thoughts. The world is not flat.

Best regards ................. Greyvoices (alias John)
 

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Hi Babs,
Regarding the raising of baseboards, I was going to suggest the same idea the John put forward, but whatever way you choose, its your project at the end of the day, just make sure, and I'm sure you will, that its of solid construction.
Regarding twisted bus wire, I have read many times that it is a better way to do the bus (can't remember the pros and cons), but think it is more beneficial with larger layouts with longer bus runs, but I'm sure someone will give you a better answer.
I didn't use twisted bus wires and have had no issues with my layout.
On your specific question to me, I don't actually use Profitrack , that wasn't about when I first started my layouts. I use Fleischmann Model track (the brass stuff) and I can still get supplies of it from Germany
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But I'm sure the extending of point motor wires would be the same. Yes, I do solder the joints after first doing a twisted together joint, just to check everything works ok, I did several at a time, then went back over them and soldered the wires together not forgetting, as I did a couple of times, to put the heat shrink tubing over the wires first. I use Rapid brand 7/.02mm stranded cable for all my under baseboard wiring (except the bus and droppers of course). I buy it in 100M drums .They do it in at least 10 different colours, that allows me to keep to certain colour schemes for different wiring tasks, an obvious one is brown and yellow for 14/16V lighting coming from Viessmann transformers.
Regards
Alan
 

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Discussion Starter · #58 ·
Hi John and Alan Thank you both for your replies, Regarding the Upper section Idea you both mentioned that was the original plan i did have upper baseboards made up and the width of the baseboards i lost to much space behind them really down to the slope of the roof I also had difficulty getting them to sit together and then bolting them my limited skills in wood working, any way I worked out that i would need 10 inches width for 4 tracks and the last thing that knocked it on the head was the slope to join the upper section together, i was thinking along the lines like this guy as it would take me a lot less time to get it together Just have a little look at the video. Thank you for all your thoughts i probably have bitten off more than i can chew so i will keep it simple.

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Alan Thank you. Your Ballasting is so good i really thought it was old Profi track, the point motors have not really change much at all. I have. some Servo Connector Plugs male and female coming for fine wire that just need crimping and i thought i would try that method first then if that does not work out i will solder just need the confidence with the soldering iron.

Thank You both once again.
Babs
 

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Just looked at the video, Oh for that amount of space. Perhaps one day when I actually stop working, I can throw out all the office equipment and extent the layout around the rest of the loft.
On the joints, as long as your happy with the method you use, to be honest, as there is no great deal of current running through the accessory cables, even good twisted joints would be ok as long as you insulate everything to prevent shorts.
Obviously, crimping or soldering is a better way to go, but not essential for accessory wiring
Regards
Alan
 

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Hello again Babs,
Firstly it’s great to see some pics of your loft space - thank you.

As with all these things, nothing ever seems as straight forward as planned, but isn’t that also part of the “fun”. Think there have been some very good reply’s already reading the above, and even more food for thought. Also can only agree in terms of the U-tube link; what a fantastic amount of space; my layout currently covers one of our two lofts, and there are a couple of tracks laid for a “possible” future extension - but the other loft is let’s say a bit full and would need windows, lining, etc (* one day who knows !).

Given your conundrum / dilemma on the baseboards heights, and do think Johns suggested approach with “stumpy legs” under tracks / buildings / etc; is a good solution; this being what my elevated sections have done, on the perimeter mainly to maximise the available width given roof slopes, like yours - seems to not be your preference. Would a further possible option, to achieve the single level overall baseboard, perhaps be to set everything at the same baseboard level, to the currently higher boards over the water tanks (* just a thought - assume no points / under board items on water tank boards - topic for another day ?). Looking at the photos, and thickness of support timbers plus gap, if side boards set at 20” must mean tank boards around 23” ? Would this work / be suitable ?

In terms of any required adjustments to the supporting legs, for either a approx 3” or 5” increase. Perhaps rather than cutting / splicing the existing legs, and without going to the cost of replacing them, and to keep the top and bottom fixings / adjustability, add timber blocks under each foot at required make up height, and refit the adjustable foot.

Sorry if this is a long and convoluted reply / suggestion; but just thinking of a way to achieve your flat baseboard table; with the least impact on the existing. Hope it assists or is at least food for thought.

Strongly suggest - take your time at this stage; will be worth it in the end.

Cheers Norm
 
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