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Bachmann B1

12659 Views 44 Replies 14 Participants Last post by  kristopher1805
I got a new Bachmann B1 (61180) for Christmas and I regret to say it's a disappointment.

Certainly runs better than my previous split chassis version but it has retained the crude tender coupling and the resulting, by todays standards, huge gap between loco and tender. The tender also has two peg-holes on the tank top for which I see no part to fit, it doesn't have the big cylindrical thing (!!) on the tank top I have on 61132 and the "toy" coal load doesn't seem to be removable.

Not good Bachmann - a rush job? - not thought through? - cutting unnecessary corners? On this evidence it won't be hard for the Hornby version to be far better and worth the extra money over this Bachmann "railroad" equivalent.

If Mr Bachmann reads these forum pages, I'd be interested in hearing the excuses.


PS I'm sending it back to the retailer anyway as the crude tender coupling is not properly fitted and I'm not prepared to have to repair a brand new item. Quality control???
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The Bachmann B1 does not have fixed moulded coal on the tender - it is a removable moudling - you can either take it out and add your own coal or add coal to it. I took mine out added the crushed coal then put it back in position once glue had dried.

Well I was satisfied with my new Bachmann B1 until two Hornby ones arrived today.

I have 61138 and 61243 and they are excellent.

61243 is a variant I was not aware even existed with the curved fillets at the front and rear of the footplates. These make the loco more like a Gresley creation than a Thompson one. was this a Doncaster modification? I have not seen this mentioned anywhere else.

Well full marks to Hornby for producing it. Why have Bachmann never considered doing this version?
I was critical of Hornby for producing a B1 in the first place but this loco looks so different - it has made it all worthwhile.
I closed the gap between the loco and tender of my B1 as soon as I got it out of the box. There are 2 ways of doing this.

Method one - glue some squares of plasticard on the inside the rear of the chassis that way the hook will locate further under the loco. How much pasticard you depends on the radius of your tightest curve.

Method 2 - cut off the upright peg off the the tender drawbarby cutting through the drawbar behuin the peg. Then drill a hole through the remains of drawbar - I personally use a craft knife to make this hole and do it from the underside so that the taper matches the peg - then shove the peg up through this new hole and flood with liquid poly.

In response to 60159 - I suspect just apathy on behalf of the person at Bachmann who replied.
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