Bachmann ivatt 2-6-2t wobble

Evenin' Valiant
Have you considered a CometModels chassis kit?
Top-notch etches, using their 50/1 gearbox , a Mashima flat-can motor and a set of prototypical wheels from Markits. Not the cheapest option, granted, you could probably buy a replacement Bachmann chassis for similar money, or less, but properly built, the dogs wotsits and while you're at it, fit an SWD Ivatt ( LMS ) sound chip and be the proud posessor of a model staight from the Top Drawer!
If I had an Ivatt loco tank body, this is the route I'd take.
Any help?
Steve

If it's the same symptoms as mine had it's the plastic wheel overlays on the drivers which have swollen and are fouling the con rods. The most straightforward remedy is to cut out the overlays and paint the wheels.

John A

A common problem with earlier Bachmann split chassis locos ( ref. nos. 31-xxx) was/is poor quartering of driving wheels, two choices, either you can carefully work out which one(s) is out, and 'tweak' it back into correct position, or get in touch with Bachmann, and see if they will supply a new set of wheels. The second option I recently did with a Standard 4, replaced a bad Hong-Kong made set with a newer China made set - now runs perfect. The set cost me about £6 inclusive of postage.
Paul M.

There was a small illustrated article on this in Model Rail magazine October 2004 if you can get a copy. It was caused by the plastic inserts in the wheels bowing outwards slightly in the middle, if you look at your loco from underneath you will probably see the same thing.

The cure was to gently lever out one side of the plastic insert with a jewellers screwdriver, put a single blob of superglue or similar in the middle of the wheel under the insert, and glue it down. It only takes a few minutes and I did it to my Bachmann Standard 4MT with perfect results. Be careful you don't overglue it though, otherwise if the glue gets through the spokes you may find that you've glued the wheels to the chassis too.

Hope it helps
Keith