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David Blythman dwb has produced a great review on the latest Bachmann Ivatt class 2 2-6-0.
Many thanks David. You're upping the standards
Click here for the review.
Bachmann Ivatt class 2 2-6-0 review
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David Blythman dwb has produced a great review on the latest Bachmann Ivatt class 2 2-6-0.
Many thanks David. You're upping the standards
Click here for the review.
That's a really fine effort on both counts, review and model. The inclusion of prototype photos is particularly helpful. The one aspect that makes me curious is why Bachmann have made a drawbar change necessary to achieve the proper loco to tender distance. Why not simply two (or even three) holes in the drawbar so that the distance can be set to suit the user. On previous models there have been two holes, typically: 'wildly over distance', and 'better, but still too far apart' the latter of which will usually still permit 2nd rad to be negotiated. I usually end up making a replacement for the proper distance.
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I don't understand why someone at Bachmann said: "Yes, red wires are fine...". I like the way they have done it and the tender mounted decoder is great giving space and sound opportunities, but the colour of the wires really messes it up. Bachmann USA use very fine wires between electrically-linked trucks for their Spectrum range. Why not just do the same as that.
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Thanks for the kind words. You should also spare a thought for Doug because he had to format all the text and place the photos.
QUOTE Why not simply two (or even three) holes in the drawbar so that the distance can be set to suit the user. On previous models there have been two holes, typically: 'wildly over distance', and 'better, but still too far apart' the latter of which will usually still permit 2nd rad to be negotiated. I usually end up making a replacement for the proper distance.
I wondered that and decided it was because of the wired connections. At present, I prefer the fixed link on the class 2. I have a Bachmann A1 and it drives me demented trying to get the tender onto the hole I want. I also have a 9F which is not nearly so difficult but problematic none the less at times. At least with Bachmann you do have the option of making a link which suits your own layout.
David
QUOTE Why not simply two (or even three) holes in the drawbar so that the distance can be set to suit the user. On previous models there have been two holes, typically: 'wildly over distance', and 'better, but still too far apart' the latter of which will usually still permit 2nd rad to be negotiated. I usually end up making a replacement for the proper distance.
I wondered that and decided it was because of the wired connections. At present, I prefer the fixed link on the class 2. I have a Bachmann A1 and it drives me demented trying to get the tender onto the hole I want. I also have a 9F which is not nearly so difficult but problematic none the less at times. At least with Bachmann you do have the option of making a link which suits your own layout.
David
QUOTE (dwb @ 13 Aug 2007, 19:05) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>I wondered that and decided it was because of the wired connections. At present, I prefer the fixed link on the class 2. I have a Bachmann A1 and it drives me demented trying to get the tender onto the hole I want. I also have a 9F which is not nearly so difficult but problematic none the less at times. At least with Bachmann you do have the option of making a link which suits your own layout.
Actually I am not going to replace any more drawbars on Bachmann, having realised that a far simpler option is to remove the moulded on plastic 'peg', and at the appropriate position either make a replacement peg from a short piece of brass rod, or make a hole to take a small self-tapper. The decision will depend on whether the loco is fairly short wheelbase (self-tapper) or long wheelbase (replacement peg); as short wheelbase locos will usually go round set track curves with a realistic loco-tender gap and thus will require no adjustment when visiting layouts with set track curves.
On a side note, what do we have to do to for Hornby to get the message that the Britannia loco-tender coupling was a big step in the right direction? Rather disappointed that they have gone back to their very dated arrangement, after getting it so right on the Brit.
Actually I am not going to replace any more drawbars on Bachmann, having realised that a far simpler option is to remove the moulded on plastic 'peg', and at the appropriate position either make a replacement peg from a short piece of brass rod, or make a hole to take a small self-tapper. The decision will depend on whether the loco is fairly short wheelbase (self-tapper) or long wheelbase (replacement peg); as short wheelbase locos will usually go round set track curves with a realistic loco-tender gap and thus will require no adjustment when visiting layouts with set track curves.
On a side note, what do we have to do to for Hornby to get the message that the Britannia loco-tender coupling was a big step in the right direction? Rather disappointed that they have gone back to their very dated arrangement, after getting it so right on the Brit.
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QUOTE having realised that a far simpler option is to remove the moulded on plastic 'peg', and at the appropriate position either make a replacement peg from a short piece of brass rod, or make a hole to take a small self-tapper.
That's a great idea!
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David
That's a great idea!
David
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QUOTE Many thanks David. You're upping the standards
Well done David. That certainly is a very comprehensive review.
I don't think you have left any question unanswered.
Well done David. That certainly is a very comprehensive review.
I don't think you have left any question unanswered.
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A very good review - thank you. There are far too many desirable engines around...
There's good information about the current restoration of 46464, and detailed prototype photos on the Carmyllie Pilot Company's website:
http://fp.br46464.free-online.co.uk/
There's good information about the current restoration of 46464, and detailed prototype photos on the Carmyllie Pilot Company's website:
http://fp.br46464.free-online.co.uk/
Enjoyed the review but read it with chagrin since I nearly destroyed my model trying to change the drawbar. All is well now though. I wish I had known about this forum before I tried to take the body off.
I think I might do a conversion to the 2-6-2T since the boiler and chassis are identical. Thinking about it the surgery should be feasible. I tried to DCC the old 2-6-2T but I think it is pretty much impossible. Cannot for the life of me work out how to get those tiny circlips back on the center crankpin. On a positive note Bachmann supplied me with replacement circlips (you guessed it, one of them went flying across the room) and other bits and bobs for FREE! A shame I couldn't finish the job.
I think I might do a conversion to the 2-6-2T since the boiler and chassis are identical. Thinking about it the surgery should be feasible. I tried to DCC the old 2-6-2T but I think it is pretty much impossible. Cannot for the life of me work out how to get those tiny circlips back on the center crankpin. On a positive note Bachmann supplied me with replacement circlips (you guessed it, one of them went flying across the room) and other bits and bobs for FREE! A shame I couldn't finish the job.
QUOTE (Brossard @ 17 Aug 2007, 04:11) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>I think I might do a conversion to the 2-6-2T since the boiler and chassis are identical.
If you enjoy such adaptions (I do too!) then let the forum know how it works out. But bear in mind that Bachmann are replacing all their split chassis mechs, and it must be likely that the Ivatt 2MTT will get this treatment not too far into the future.
QUOTE I tried to DCC the old 2-6-2T but I think it is pretty much impossible. Cannot for the life of me work out how to get those tiny circlips back on the center crankpin. On a positive note Bachmann supplied me with replacement circlips (you guessed it, one of them went flying across the room) and other bits and bobs for FREE! A shame I couldn't finish the job.
Believe it or not, there is no necessity to remove the circlip, which I agree is a very difficult component to return to the crankpin. In converting numerous outside valve gear split chassis models to DCC, it has always proved possible to drop the wheelsets sufficiently far out of the chassis to get the halves apart just enough for access to attach wires to the motor terminals. A sort of minimal disassembly is what I aim at.
When it is necessary to remove the wheelset, (usually to enable a cutting operation when modifying a chassis block) my practise is to remove the cylinders and motion brackets from the chassis. These are held on with an 'Evostick' type adhesive, and in the case of the motion bracket also a small cross-head screw. Restoring these to the chassis with a little contact adhesive like Evostick is simplicity compared to fiddling with the circlip.
If you enjoy such adaptions (I do too!) then let the forum know how it works out. But bear in mind that Bachmann are replacing all their split chassis mechs, and it must be likely that the Ivatt 2MTT will get this treatment not too far into the future.
QUOTE I tried to DCC the old 2-6-2T but I think it is pretty much impossible. Cannot for the life of me work out how to get those tiny circlips back on the center crankpin. On a positive note Bachmann supplied me with replacement circlips (you guessed it, one of them went flying across the room) and other bits and bobs for FREE! A shame I couldn't finish the job.
Believe it or not, there is no necessity to remove the circlip, which I agree is a very difficult component to return to the crankpin. In converting numerous outside valve gear split chassis models to DCC, it has always proved possible to drop the wheelsets sufficiently far out of the chassis to get the halves apart just enough for access to attach wires to the motor terminals. A sort of minimal disassembly is what I aim at.
When it is necessary to remove the wheelset, (usually to enable a cutting operation when modifying a chassis block) my practise is to remove the cylinders and motion brackets from the chassis. These are held on with an 'Evostick' type adhesive, and in the case of the motion bracket also a small cross-head screw. Restoring these to the chassis with a little contact adhesive like Evostick is simplicity compared to fiddling with the circlip.
QUOTE (34C @ 17 Aug 2007, 10:15) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>If you enjoy such adaptions (I do too!) then let the forum know how it works out. But bear in mind that Bachmann are replacing all their split chassis mechs, and it must be likely that the Ivatt 2MTT will get this treatment not too far into the future.
Believe it or not, there is no necessity to remove the circlip, which I agree is a very difficult component to return to the crankpin. In converting numerous outside valve gear split chassis models to DCC, it has always proved possible to drop the wheelsets sufficiently far out of the chassis to get the halves apart just enough for access to attach wires to the motor terminals. A sort of minimal disassembly is what I aim at.
When it is necessary to remove the wheelset, (usually to enable a cutting operation when modifying a chassis block) my practise is to remove the cylinders and motion brackets from the chassis. These are held on with an 'Evostick' type adhesive, and in the case of the motion bracket also a small cross-head screw. Restoring these to the chassis with a little contact adhesive like Evostick is simplicity compared to fiddling with the circlip.
I realize that Bachmann are redoing the Scots etc. and inevitably will re-release the 2-6-2T...but when? Thats the question. Of course, IAW Sods Law, as soon as I get mine finished they will announce. Still its likely to be a couple of years off. I already got myself a second model and expect to start soon. I need a Push Pull service.
I followed the Phil Grainger instructions in Model Rail, Sept 2000. There is considerable surgery required to make space for the chip so I guess the risk of damage is pretty high if you don't fully disassemble. Phil's instructions didn't provide much guidance for getting the thing back together. Ah well, we live and learn.
This forum is going to be a great resource for future projects and I hope I can give back.
Believe it or not, there is no necessity to remove the circlip, which I agree is a very difficult component to return to the crankpin. In converting numerous outside valve gear split chassis models to DCC, it has always proved possible to drop the wheelsets sufficiently far out of the chassis to get the halves apart just enough for access to attach wires to the motor terminals. A sort of minimal disassembly is what I aim at.
When it is necessary to remove the wheelset, (usually to enable a cutting operation when modifying a chassis block) my practise is to remove the cylinders and motion brackets from the chassis. These are held on with an 'Evostick' type adhesive, and in the case of the motion bracket also a small cross-head screw. Restoring these to the chassis with a little contact adhesive like Evostick is simplicity compared to fiddling with the circlip.
I realize that Bachmann are redoing the Scots etc. and inevitably will re-release the 2-6-2T...but when? Thats the question. Of course, IAW Sods Law, as soon as I get mine finished they will announce. Still its likely to be a couple of years off. I already got myself a second model and expect to start soon. I need a Push Pull service.
I followed the Phil Grainger instructions in Model Rail, Sept 2000. There is considerable surgery required to make space for the chip so I guess the risk of damage is pretty high if you don't fully disassemble. Phil's instructions didn't provide much guidance for getting the thing back together. Ah well, we live and learn.
This forum is going to be a great resource for future projects and I hope I can give back.
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I noted from the review in September's RM that the green version has Swindon builder's plates and a Welsh shedplate code.
If the plates are different and so are a separately applied part, I wonder will we see any Darlington built examples with the thinner taller chimney?
David
If the plates are different and so are a separately applied part, I wonder will we see any Darlington built examples with the thinner taller chimney?
David
Bachmann usually tool up for common variants obtainable by altering small (and sometimes not so small) parts, so I would expect so. They have exploited single/double chimney forms on all the applicable classes in their range, lipped and stovepipe on the A1, so the omens are good.
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QUOTE Bachmann usually tool up for common variants obtainable by altering small (and sometimes not so small) parts, so I would expect so. They have exploited single/double chimney forms on all the applicable classes in their range, lipped and stovepipe on the A1, so the omens are good.
I really admire that kind of design. It's probably a result of being brought up on Lego. Maybe we can anticipate some 78xxx as well
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David
I really admire that kind of design. It's probably a result of being brought up on Lego. Maybe we can anticipate some 78xxx as well
David
QUOTE (dwb @ 18 Aug 2007, 11:56) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>I really admire that kind of design. It's probably a result of being brought up on Lego. Maybe we can anticipate some 78xxx as well
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David
I was brought up on lego then progressed to a clock work train set from hornby and since then i have gone on to start a big collection of engines and rolling stock. i have had other trains but whilst i was younger (and stupid) i ended up selling them for money so i can provide for my son. But now i have grown up and now i have restarted my hobby. I now go to model railway shows and preserved railways (mainly Great Central Railway). The Ivatt is a good engine but i do have a little problem with the polystyrene box. it knocks off the footsteps off when i place it in the box even carefully when i do it. but apart from that it is a sound engine all round.
David
I was brought up on lego then progressed to a clock work train set from hornby and since then i have gone on to start a big collection of engines and rolling stock. i have had other trains but whilst i was younger (and stupid) i ended up selling them for money so i can provide for my son. But now i have grown up and now i have restarted my hobby. I now go to model railway shows and preserved railways (mainly Great Central Railway). The Ivatt is a good engine but i do have a little problem with the polystyrene box. it knocks off the footsteps off when i place it in the box even carefully when i do it. but apart from that it is a sound engine all round.
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QUOTE I was brought up on lego then progressed to a clock work train
I think I was playing with my Dad's old Hornby O Gauge clockwork train before the Lego. I can remember being given the Lego for Christmas but I can't remember a time when I didn't have a train to play with.
David
I think I was playing with my Dad's old Hornby O Gauge clockwork train before the Lego. I can remember being given the Lego for Christmas but I can't remember a time when I didn't have a train to play with.
David
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