[the volebender general]

Some good points already made:

Let me just add a quick point by point, while your ordering the book MMD suggested.

Your point 1

Certainly not. You buy one dcc system:
Three classes:
Beginner
Middle
High Spec

All will supply the power for up/ down and yard shunting e.g.3 locos. You simply call up the loco you want.

If you want to know about one and two above post a new link and ask system specific qestions. About three, download Lisa P4 table above it is worth a thousand words and then ask here again.

Point 2 Please see ongoing discussion about old motors and join in. If you have old stock it is not a dcc issue but a track/wheel issue. Use code 100 or sell the old stuff is the short and sweet answer.

Point 3

I use ordinary house-hold wire, over 50 ft, no problem whatsoever. What are you planning to use?

Point 4
See 1 above and post here again.

look forward to hear how you are getting on. You will not regret the upgrade to dcc.

TVBG

 

[the volebender general]

Sounds perfect to me.

Also sounds like you have already been reading up a little. Putting your 'ring main' down (power bus)is a great start whatever dcc system you buy.

TVBG

 

[the volebender general]

Brian,

You have edited that one on me!

Your copper wire turns out to be a single common return wire for DC!

Mmmm,

Ok - I cannot go down that route with you; I would not advise you struggle with mixing the two systems, dcc and dc at all. Lenz do a LT100 to do this -if you must.You can download the manual at www.Lenz.com ... if you must....

But- 1:

If you are using a a dc controller's ac outputs power to thrown switches and signals; continue to use this system. Great; the hard work is done. Call this system of power and wires, whatever colour or type; your 'accessory bus' and do nothing more with it. Fine; many people do this and do not like to switch points in dcc, you are one of the many.

2: run another copper wire around your existing layout so you have the two close together. Call these two your main 'power bus' feed.

3 Any Dcc system you choose to purchase can now be connected to just these two wires.

4 attach your track feeds and section feeds around the layout to these two wires.

5 I think you have not seen that a 'single' top Lenz system, for example, puts out five amps and can therefore control more trains that you can possibly handle; Cabs in dcc are just another hand controller or computer or mobile phone attached to in the one box - amplifier.

6 In short, what I am suggesting, is that you do not try to save you dc stuff and worry about dual systems! You simply make the jump to dcc in one go.

The above seems more dogmatic than I would like, so I shall add, it is just my humble opinion, if I have understood you correctly after your editing!

mmm

Regards
TVBG

 

[the volebender general]

Brian,

Was it your Ashford web site that I was looking at this afternoon, and have you just guessed Lisa p4's diagram, or am I just getting my Brian's hopelessly mixed up?

Anyway, I would love to know how some of the new Gaugemaster people are getting on with the rebadged system too - so I hope someone posts here.

Importing from Usa - I have imported the Power Pax unit from Mikes Models and with import tax and shipping the dollar price was close to the English pounds price. Also I had to mail order a US - Uk adaptor from Maplins plus postage - You need to factor this in!

I think, for what its worth, you should have a look at the Lenz system 90 (two hundred and forty quid I think) and use this as your bench mark to test against the Digitrax system and the Gaugemaster.

Re Lenz - fancy a trip to bonny Scotland - big dealer there!!

TVBG

 

[the volebender general]

'Off course here...'

No - just me Brian. Made an assumption about what you knew because LizaP4 said the device was for DCC and I couldn't remember the full web site details you gave. Thats All. Will take another look at your site in the morning.

If price is the key e.g. two hundred pounds, no more, but hopefully less. I think I would wait for the Hornby Elite (see reviews above), build up my knowledge base about the other three systems and buy in 6 months-ish!

This maybe should have its own thread; buying from the USA.

After some good and some bad experiences I would only buy from Mikes Models and Walthers direct. Walthers will do you the Prodigy for 199 dollars (my 2004 catalouge!)
Walthers are also as safe as houses, with real support for us here in Europe, if you must go surfing USA, then thats who i would go with.

TVBG

 

[the volebender general]

I think I was tired last night. I meant Tonys Train Exchange for the Power Pax etc, and Walthers for models and bits. ThanKs for the price update Doug i wont be importing the heavy Walthers catalouge for a year or two!

TVBG

 

[the volebender general]

BillD,

I think the import duty over Europe is a bit hit and miss. The trouble is where I am, northern europe, the state never misses and I can not get the goods out of the post office without paying!! Last week an import from the USA worth 50 dollars came to the grand total of 49 pounds. can i import via you guys in France?

Anyway, Loco Mouse II. As I have said elsewhere I think the hand held is the best there is for controlling single loco's. I upgraded to a Lenz 100 set. The Lenz hand-held is a great engineering and building tool (checking decoders etc.). The two sit together on my control panel, but I pick the mouse most often.

Idea. I bought the Lenz set 100, and a Adapter plate La152, keep the Roco mouse and just plug it in.

p.s. is your loco stud at 99 already or do you mean you wish to double head etc?

TVBG