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Hi pacman
You haven't stated what make and type of points you're using or what gauge your working in?? i.e. In "00" using Peco code 100, Peco Code 75 or other manufacturer.
If you're using Peco solenoid motors then the ideal option is to fit their point switches to the motor by supergluing them in place.
Switching the frog polarity by using this point operated switch will improve running reliability. Don't forget to fit insulated rail joiner to the two rails leading away from the frog rails to prevent feed back into the points and short circuits occurring due to reversing polarity on the frog.
As you wrote the question in the DCC forum I guess you're a DCC user? Then, I would recommend making all your points "Friendly" where the open switch rail is at the same polarity as its adjacent stock rail rather than as supplied where the switch rail is at opposite polarity when open. By doing this simple conversion the possibility of wheel flanges causing short circuits as loco's pass over the points is totally eliminated.
Full details of both Peco Code 100 point conversion and the simpler to carry out Peco code 75 together with frog switching details can be found on my web site here - My Webpage
However, the conversions shown can apply to virtually any make of points and in any gauge.
Good luck
 

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QUOTE At that point, the Peco advantage is ease of installation (provided you don't mind making the big hole)
Big hole??
Not necessary at all!!!(Though depends on your view point of what a "Big Hole" is?)

I guess you mean a hole large enough to pass the complete motor through when its fixed to the bottom of the Peco point?

Largest hole I drill for a Peco solenoid motor through the baseboard is 8 to 10 mm dia. This is directly under the point Tie Bar and centrally aligned. The motor is screwed up underneath and the operating pin passes through the pre drilled hole into the points tie bar. Simple and no gapping hole to cover over before ballasting etc!


The PL13 switch is very simple to install and wire. I used some 40 or so of these on my former Ridgley Vale layout and never had one fail though! Did manage to knock one off, but that's was an 'Own Goal'. If they are superglued on in the correct position they cause no bother to the motor or the point operation. It when they aren't aliened correctly that problems set in!
 

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Hi pacman
QUOTE Haven't heard any comments about the Seep varieties; has anyone used Seep? And if so, how good are they with DCC?
You can't use a Peco, Seep or any other point motor directly off of a DCC supply. Between the motor and the DCC bus on any DCC system you will need some form of decoder. There are plenty available and many operate up to four sets of points independently. Some have built in CDUs too.

Changing to DCC loco control doesn't necessarily mean you need to operate points or other accessories by DCC, though this is at times ia a nice option, especially if you're thinking of PC control for example. You can still use conventional DC (or AC) to control all lineside accessories. This then gives time for you to buy accessory decoders as the finances allow and convert as need be. Alternatively they can be left to operate 'conventionally' all the time. The choice is yours.

SEEP motors are ok and a little cheaper than the Peco motor and Peco single point switch units combined price. Either will give a positive solenoid movement. (Called the Snap!) when subjected to a 12 to 16v power supply pulse (Best via a CDU).
Electric motor drive units, such as the Tortoise are more expensive but offer slow movement and at least one set (if not more) of independent change-over contacts. However and as already pointed out, there can be a problem with these types of motors due to excessive slack occurring in their operating pins movement allowing the motors contacts to make up before the switch rail has moved fully over.

Model railways have used solenoid point operation since the first commercial point motors were manufactured, there is little to go wrong and they are relatively cheap to buy new. If you want slower point throwing then you will have to buy the electric motor operated styles - Tortoise or Fulgarex etc.
Good luck and chose thoughtfully and carefully
 

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Hi MMD
QUOTE I see international models quote the Tillig slow moving turnout motor with polarity switching at £11.00 which is cheaper than Peco by quite a bit.
Now my maths isn't that good but.......
If a Tillig motor is £11 I've just looked at The Signal Box web site an they quote the following..
Peco PL10 motors @ £3.95 or 6 for £3.50 each
Peco PL13 switches @ £2.00 or 6 for £1.80 each
and Peco PL15 micro switches @ £5.15 each or 6 for £4.50 each.


Based on the 'each' cost a single Peco motor and single switch is £5.95 and a motor and twin micro switch is £9.10. So, its almost two Peco motors and single switches for the price of one Tillig or have I missed something??
 

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Hmmm
I'm confused....(Doesnt take a lot!)

One minute were dicussing £ (Strerling) then the Euro sudenly is used and a supplier in Germany (I think its a German company?)!! But MMD stated 'International Models' at £11.00 each UK prices and of course no import duties!
UK retailer (The Signal Box) can supply Peco PL10W motors at £4.45 each in the UK less if you buy more!
Now, where did the PL10W come from?? I wasnt taking about PL10W's just the good old PL10 basic or extened pins types! Which retail for £3.95 each.


Anyway I think the answer is... If you want slow moving points then go for an electriclly operated motor if not stick with a solioide type!
 

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I agree my error.
No Import duties levied on any goods from a member EU contry.
There is VAT though. This will be added at the selling countries rate (if not already included in the retail price) or if the seller is UK VAT registered then at the UK rate of 17.5%.


Postage from abroad (EU or elsewhere) will oftern be more than in the UK
 
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