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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi Guys,

As I am about to start laying (and wiring) track, I would be interested in peoples opinion of the best way to toggle electrofrog turnout frog polarity when switching the points.

As I understand it, the frog has to be isolated from the layout and receive a switched feed dependant on which way the turnout is set?
The methods I guess are:-

1. Use something like a Peco PL13 accessory switch to switch ploarity as the point motor is thrown
2. Use a manual toggle switch and set the polarity by hand (and not forget)
3. Use the turnout's in-built wiring to power the frog from the toe end appropriately

Are there any other options? Are any a better way than others? And more importantly, if you choose to use a manual approach and then forget to throw the switch, can you damage anything (loco, decoder, DCC unit etc.) by running a loco onto the turnout without a frog set correctly?

Excuse my naivety...just finding my feet in the wacky world of DCC wiring
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
QUOTE (Brian @ 8 Aug 2006, 08:51) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>You haven't stated what make and type of points you're using or what gauge your working in?? i.e. In "00" using Peco code 100, Peco Code 75 or other manufacturer.
Sorry about that. I am (will be) working in '00' gauge. I have been track planning using Peco Code 100 templates, but at this moment cannot decide whether to go for Peco Code 100, Peco Code 75 or this rather nifty looking Tillig gear. My original intention was to use Peco/Hornby point motors and use stud and probe for changing. Not having adopted DCC yet, the concept of isolating and powering frogs had not entered my mind, until now. Now DCC is on the cards, how to swap the frog polarity became an issue...

looks like using Peco PL13 accessory units might be the way, but using Tillig may require different options.

Hmmm...
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
QUOTE (dbclass50 @ 9 Aug 2006, 20:09) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>I eventually traced the problem to the point itself swiching slightly before the microswitch.

So, although slow acting point motors are more realistic and quieter, it sounds like the 'snap action' solenoid types do have their advantages, even if they are a bit more tacky


Hmmm, at this moment I am erring toward using Peco turnouts (maybe Tillig, but have been warned about flanges on my older locos), with either:-

1. Peco motors and PL15 dual microswitch attachments (to allow for future options)

or

2. Seep or Fulgurex combined motors and switches

Haven't heard any comments about the Seep varieties; has anyone used Seep? And if so, how good are they with DCC?
 
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