Model Railway Forum banner
1 - 20 of 35 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
118 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
HI All,

Im new to this so please bare with me. Im in the process of building a portable OO Gauge layout 20`x 8` extendable to 28` x 8`. My problem is this- Having built some of the boards and done some of the joins Im unhappy with them as it has left a very large gap between the rails. Has anyone got any ideas on how to rectify this problem or can suggest a better way of making the joins. I currently use Peco code 100 flexitrack soldered to PCB which is screwed to the baseboard at the edges but even with them screwed down and the rails at the edge of the board there is a large gap.

Any help on this would be great,

Mark
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
15 Posts
The secret is to make sure that the baseboards are securely connected and that the joint between baseboards is consistent. If the baseboards are not always connected together exactly right, then your tracks will always be wrong. So I would ask as to how your baseboards are secured to each other?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
118 Posts
Discussion Starter · #3 ·
QUOTE (Phil Ban @ 15 Jun 2008, 00:15) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>The secret is to make sure that the baseboards are securely connected and that the joint between baseboards is consistent. If the baseboards are not always connected together exactly right, then your tracks will always be wrong. So I would ask as to how your baseboards are secured to each other?

Hi Phil,

The boards are slotted together with four wooden dowels and then secured by four coach bolts. Two in the baseboard and two in the brace between the legs.
The boards are tight together and level as best that i can get. (without adjustable feet at the moment)

Mark
 

·
garage hobbit&#33;&#33;&#33;
Joined
·
1,715 Posts
Hi Mark, welcome to the forum,

The way I did the track on my layout, Milldale, was to align the boards together then lay the track over the join. Remove 3 sleepers either side of the join, replace with copper clad sleepers and solder to the track. And finally cut accross the board joint with my multi tool (simular to a dremmal) this gave a very small gap and aligns every time.

Would love to hear more about your layout, hats it going to be, Steam, early diesel, modern image?

Good luck with it

Brian
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
59 Posts
are copper clad sleepers readly available from a model shop because last time i looked for some i couldnt find any although i didnt look that hard as i saw something else and bought that instead
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
118 Posts
Discussion Starter · #6 ·
QUOTE (bro sewell @ 15 Jun 2008, 09:29) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>Hi Mark, welcome to the forum,

The way I did the track on my layout, Milldale, was to align the boards together then lay the track over the join. Remove 3 sleepers either side of the join, replace with copper clad sleepers and solder to the track. And finally cut accross the board joint with my multi tool (simular to a dremmal) this gave a very small gap and aligns every time.

Would love to hear more about your layout, hats it going to be, Steam, early diesel, modern image?

Good luck with it

Brian

Hi Brian,

Thanks for the welcome and the interest. I Had never thought of that, sounds like a good idea. Will have to try it. Can you suggest anything for the points as I have two very close to the edge of the joins i.e right at the end of the boards? The Layout at the moment is titled Millbrook Junction set somewhere in the southeast. The Layout period is ruffly set between early 80`s and the present day as I love the Network South East era. And the fact that there is some great new products from Bachmann. I have just purchased two class 108`s. One two car NSE and one three car Blue Grey and they are fantastic. The wife is the same. She just purchased a Freightliner 66 also from Bachmann to add to the large stable of rolling stock that I have. (over 600 items in total).

Although that its going to be set in that time scale I do have steam as well, so there might be the odd steam special appearing now and then. Our aim is to eventually get it onto the exhibition circuit but its going to take a long time before that happens. Add to that the help that we will need as we dont belong to any clubs, what with me working nights and the other half being a full time mum. Hence the reason why Ive joined this forum. If anyone can offer assistance be it in written form or physical. It would be greatly appreciated.

Mark
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
118 Posts
Discussion Starter · #7 ·
QUOTE (bri.s @ 15 Jun 2008, 09:46) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>are copper clad sleepers readly available from a model shop because last time i looked for some i couldnt find any although i didnt look that hard as i saw something else and bought that instead

Hi there,

Just done a search on tinternet, try C+L Finescale, they have a large range of related stuff including copper clad sleepers. According to the website you get 100 32 mm, thin copper clad sleepers for £3.00. I dont know what they are like or whether that good value for money as I have not purchased any myself but I hope this helps.

Mark
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
189 Posts
QUOTE (Rayden500 @ 15 Jun 2008, 09:55) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>Hi Brian,

Thanks for the welcome and the interest. I Had never thought of that, sounds like a good idea. Will have to try it. Can you suggest anything for the points as I have two very close to the edge of the joins i.e right at the end of the boards? The Layout at the moment is titled Millbrook Junction set somewhere in the southeast. The Layout period is ruffly set between early 80`s and the present day as I love the Network South East era. And the fact that there is some great new products from Bachmann. I have just purchased two class 108`s. One two car NSE and one three car Blue Grey and they are fantastic. The wife is the same. She just purchased a Freightliner 66 also from Bachmann to add to the large stable of rolling stock that I have. (over 600 items in total).

Although that its going to be set in that time scale I do have steam as well, so there might be the odd steam special appearing now and then. Our aim is to eventually get it onto the exhibition circuit but its going to take a long time before that happens. Add to that the help that we will need as we dont belong to any clubs, what with me working nights and the other half being a full time mum. Hence the reason why Ive joined this forum. If anyone can offer assistance be it in written form or physical. It would be greatly appreciated.

Mark

Mark,

Welcome to the forum. You will find a lot of very good advise here and I regularly surf the forum for interesting facts and ideas.

Sounds like an interesting project and seems you have the 'better half' involved (good move). These things take time and most of the fun is in the making and the playing.

Have fun first and foremost and using pictures helps to convey your ideas. I am still getting the hang of adding pictures but the site admin and members will give help and advice.

Onwards

 

·
garage hobbit&#33;&#33;&#33;
Joined
·
1,715 Posts
QUOTE (Rayden500 @ 15 Jun 2008, 10:55) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>Hi Brian, Thanks for the welcome and the interest. I Had never thought of that, sounds like a good idea. Will have to try it. Can you suggest anything for the points as I have two very close to the edge of the joins i.e right at the end of the boards? The Layout at the moment is titled Millbrook Junction set somewhere in the southeast. The Layout period is ruffly set between early 80`s and the present day as I love the Network South East era. And the fact that there is some great new products from Bachmann. I have just purchased two class 108`s. One two car NSE and one three car Blue Grey and they are fantastic. The wife is the same. She just purchased a Freightliner 66 also from Bachmann to add to the large stable of rolling stock that I have. (over 600 items in total).Although that its going to be set in that time scale I do have steam as well, so there might be the odd steam special appearing now and then. Our aim is to eventually get it onto the exhibition circuit but its going to take a long time before that happens. Add to that the help that we will need as we dont belong to any clubs, what with me working nights and the other half being a full time mum. Hence the reason why Ive joined this forum. If anyone can offer assistance be it in written form or physical. It would be greatly appreciated.Mark

Not sure about points crossing board joins as I planned my layout track plan in full size on paper long before any wood was cut for boards, and avoided points going over deliberatly.

As for the copper clad sleepers, I get mine from a shop called Caistor Loco (No conections) as was the closest stockest at the time, I may have moved since, but all I do is order over the phoe and arrange to either have set in post or pick up at a swap meet, next one is on last weekend of June over at the Lincolnshire Show ground, not to far from South Yorkshire, just down the A57 (for Bri S)

I hope you enjoy you railway, and please share some pics

Brian
 

·
Administrator
Joined
·
9,844 Posts
QUOTE Can you suggest anything for the points as I have two very close to the edge of the joins i.e right at the end of the boards?

This is something I would try to avoid if at all possible. If there is no way around it and you feel up to the task, maybe constructing your own points for that part of the layout would be a solution. If you used software such as Templot (they have a website here) you would be able to design the point layout so that it crosses the baseboard join with as few complications as possible. From the sound of your baseboard joining technique, I think you will get the precision required for accurate rail realignment. I've not used Templot but from viewing the tutorial videos about it, it looks to be a good piece of software.

David
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,202 Posts
hi....welcome to the forum.

as bro sewell says, the best way of ensuring alignment and minimal gap is to first clamp the boards together, then lay the track across the joint. Remove plastic sleepers, and insert [either] PCB sleepers, fixed down with the rail soldered to them, or, for extra security if the boards are to be frequently moved, then insert a larger rectangle of printed circuit board...[available from the likes of Maplins?]....this rectangle can be secured down to the trackbed using more substantial screws, for example.
[don't forget to create a slot in the copper, to avoid short circuits?]

Once the rail has been soldered, the PCB fixed down, etc.....then, using either a dremel-type cutting tool, or simply a razor saw [for a THIN cut], cut along the gap between the boards.

[the rectangle of PCB an then be disguised scenically..barrow crossing, or whatever]

Two observations though......

[1]....have the adjacent boards actually been moved and replaced?

if so, have they been replaced exactly level, ie the same plane as when you first laid the track?

It is possible that the boards have been re-connected with the opposite ends actually a tad LOWER than originally....this would thus create a wider gap between the adjoining rails?

How are the board supports adjusted? [ie legs?]

[2]....have you considered actually using bridging tracks instead of your existing method? These would involve ending your existing tracks around, for example, a couple of inches away from each board join.......when the layout is erected, bridging tracks are inserted in the gaps, and joined to the adjacent rails using sliding fishplates.

For a portable layout [as distinct from a TRANSPORTABLE layout..ie one that is erected and dismatled and carted around very frequently]....which might only need to move once in a blue moon....then the method [2] also allows for pointwork across a board joint ??? [again using sliding fishplates?]
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
560 Posts
Welcome aboard

Great idea to have the other half involved, saves on all the underhanded sneaking in of the new purchases

If only we were all so lucky
Can only suggest that you follow the advice above and lay the track over the join, solder down then cut


By the time this is ballasted it will be very firm indeed

Be great to see some pics as soon as you've got some to show us. Either set up a phtobucket or similar account and link to it or better still join the Plus+ membership here and set up an album to show us your progress
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
118 Posts
Discussion Starter · #13 ·
QUOTE (Basil @ 15 Jun 2008, 11:12) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>Mark,

Welcome to the forum. You will find a lot of very good advise here and I regularly surf the forum for interesting facts and ideas.

Sounds like an interesting project and seems you have the 'better half' involved (good move). These things take time and most of the fun is in the making and the playing.

Have fun first and foremost and using pictures helps to convey your ideas. I am still getting the hang of adding pictures but the site admin and members will give help and advice.

Onwards



Hi Basil,

Thanks for the welcome,

This is true, it is fun but bloody annoying at times lol. It certainly is an interesting project. My first portable layout, indeed my first layout for quite some time. I have had "static" layouts in the past but have lots of stock which has been collected over the years and I thought it was about time to make something on which to run it all. I like you are having problems putting pictures on here but if you have MSN or email you can contact me and I will send some pictures to anyone who is interested.

Having the better half involved is great. Sometimes she is more enthusiastic about the project than me!! Which is good cause it keeps me going when the going gets tuff.

Mark
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
118 Posts
Discussion Starter · #14 ·
QUOTE (bro sewell @ 15 Jun 2008, 11:39) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>

Not sure about points crossing board joins as I planned my layout track plan in full size on paper long before any wood was cut for boards, and avoided points going over deliberatly.

As for the copper clad sleepers, I get mine from a shop called Caistor Loco (No conections) as was the closest stockest at the time, I may have moved since, but all I do is order over the phoe and arrange to either have set in post or pick up at a swap meet, next one is on last weekend of June over at the Lincolnshire Show ground, not to far from South Yorkshire, just down the A57 (for Bri S)

I hope you enjoy you railway, and please share some pics

Brian

Hi brian,

Sorry, when i said that the points were at the edge of the board I didnt mean that they went over the baseboard join. I was refering to the "mouth" of the turnout begining at the edge of the board. Not as a whole going over the join. I did plan for that so they wouldnt be over the joins. Wish I could add photos to show you what I mean. Would be alot easier.

Mark
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
118 Posts
Discussion Starter · #15 ·
QUOTE (dwb @ 15 Jun 2008, 12:11) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>This is something I would try to avoid if at all possible. If there is no way around it and you feel up to the task, maybe constructing your own points for that part of the layout would be a solution. If you used software such as Templot (they have a website here) you would be able to design the point layout so that it crosses the baseboard join with as few complications as possible. From the sound of your baseboard joining technique, I think you will get the precision required for accurate rail realignment. I've not used Templot but from viewing the tutorial videos about it, it looks to be a good piece of software.

David

Hi David,

Thanks for the advice. Not quite sure Im up to scratch building points just yet. I Cant get my head round building Metcalfe kits yet. lol. Have posted a bit further down about the points. It seems that I didnt make myself all that clear with my description earlier and people seem to be missing the point. (Sorry!!)
Putting pictures on would help but alas am not too sure on how to do this yet.

Mark B)
 

·
Administrator
Joined
·
9,844 Posts
QUOTE alas am not too sure on how to do this yet.

You can find instructions on how to post pictures by clicking this link to take you to the Forum topic on how to do it.

If that doesn't work, ask a question in that topic

David
 

·
garage hobbit&#33;&#33;&#33;
Joined
·
1,715 Posts
Building Tower Urban design Tower block Skyscraper Points near board joins

Track Wood Composite material Engineering Tints and shades Same points from further away

Audio equipment Electrical wiring Circuit component Font Flooring 3way on my fiddle yard

Wood Facade Pattern Font Plant By station bay

Hi Mark,

Its taken me along time to get pics on here, so I gave up and joined plus+ today and its now so easy!


Here are a couple of points I have done, hope they are of use to you

Brian
 

Attachments

·
Registered
Joined
·
118 Posts
Discussion Starter · #18 ·
QUOTE (alastairq @ 15 Jun 2008, 12:13) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>hi....welcome to the forum.

as bro sewell says, the best way of ensuring alignment and minimal gap is to first clamp the boards together, then lay the track across the joint. Remove plastic sleepers, and insert [either] PCB sleepers, fixed down with the rail soldered to them, or, for extra security if the boards are to be frequently moved, then insert a larger rectangle of printed circuit board...[available from the likes of Maplins?]....this rectangle can be secured down to the trackbed using more substantial screws, for example.
[don't forget to create a slot in the copper, to avoid short circuits?]

Once the rail has been soldered, the PCB fixed down, etc.....then, using either a dremel-type cutting tool, or simply a razor saw [for a THIN cut], cut along the gap between the boards.

[the rectangle of PCB an then be disguised scenically..barrow crossing, or whatever]

Two observations though......

[1]....have the adjacent boards actually been moved and replaced?

if so, have they been replaced exactly level, ie the same plane as when you first laid the track?

It is possible that the boards have been re-connected with the opposite ends actually a tad LOWER than originally....this would thus create a wider gap between the adjoining rails?

How are the board supports adjusted? [ie legs?]

[2]....have you considered actually using bridging tracks instead of your existing method? These would involve ending your existing tracks around, for example, a couple of inches away from each board join.......when the layout is erected, bridging tracks are inserted in the gaps, and joined to the adjacent rails using sliding fishplates.

For a portable layout [as distinct from a TRANSPORTABLE layout..ie one that is erected and dismatled and carted around very frequently]....which might only need to move once in a blue moon....then the method [2] also allows for pointwork across a board joint ??? [again using sliding fishplates?]

Hi there,

Thanks for the tips, I think that it will end up as an exhibition layout so a transportable layout type. At the moment its being put up and taken down once in a while. Basically whenever I can get time at the weekends to do it.

Mark
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
118 Posts
Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Hi All,

Just posted some pictures in my photo gallery of Millbrook Junction in the progress.

Hope you enjoy, please feel free to post suggestions and comments, good or bad open to all.

Mark
 

·
Administrator
Joined
·
9,844 Posts
Hi Bro Sewell,

I just have to ask this to prove that I really did look at your full size photos
Do you find that having spiders next to your double slips makes them work better?


David
 
1 - 20 of 35 Posts
Top