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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Looking throughout the forums at various pictures of peoples layouts and I have been very very impressed by some of the scenery, in particular, the buildings and cliff faces which have an excellent realistic weathered appearance. As I am only in the early stages of modelling I have no clue how this look is achieved and I was wondering if anyone cared to share this secret with me. Heres hoping anyway!
 

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QUOTE (rocket01 @ 24 Feb 2009, 16:44) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>Looking throughout the forums at various pictures of peoples layouts and I have been very very impressed by some of the scenery, in particular, the buildings and cliff faces which have an excellent realistic weathered appearance. As I am only in the early stages of modelling I have no clue how this look is achieved and I was wondering if anyone cared to share this secret with me. Heres hoping anyway!


If you would like to email me with questions about buildings and scratch building / painting i will try and answer them all for you, i have no problems helping you out email as much as you need to!!!!

PS :- if you look up my posts there are quite a few examples of the stuff i make

Ask away


Nikki
 

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Rule # 1 - look closely at the real thing, if your layout is set in a specific area check out the local geology first.

60134
 

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Hello there

I have been experimenting with various methods. I brought some moulded polystyrene rock face when in USA and used the traditional, plaster of paris / Multi finish do it yourself rock face. Here are my results:

Dawlish sea wall using fifishing plaster built up in layers and scoured with a lolly stick.


Pre moulded rock:


Here it is painted etc:


And finally - the old method of building layers of rock face:


Full details and more photos on my website craig-munday.fotopic.net

Best wishes

Craig
 

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I use rubber rock moulds from the US and P38 car filler .I just spread the filler in the mould so that its not too thick and take it out when its gone"green" or just about set but not actually hard ,you can then adjust it to what area it needs to fit .It works very well for me .I spray it with grey primer car paint but vinyl house paint would also do .The P38 is a bit smelly when all drying out so if you make all your castings out doors and let them cure it cuts the pong down .i think I used plaster to set the castings onto the foam undercliff .The moulds do not damage but test the compatibility first I cottoned onto this when making a model car pattern .I could see how well p38 moulds when I cast some wheel inserts and realized that it reproduces every tiny hair and speck of dust .I used the p38 for the mould and the copies .. Forgot to add ,just crack the castings with cutters to get small pieces for gap fillers and odd places .
Martin
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Thanks for all the information, I am a fair distance away from creating scenery and landscapes at the moment however I am planning what I am going to do.
Once I have built my base layout when I move home i will begin!!
 
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