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Cabin Layout

2592 Views 35 Replies 12 Participants Last post by  PAPPA.B
It has been about 6 years since I last wrote about my 00 railway in an old 10' x 8' shed. ( this was titled Starting Again and I think Shed Layout ).I had slightly lost enthusiasm for this due in part to other commitments and the fact that the layout was too crammed. I had a 23' x 12' wooden building which was an old garage dating from 1947 which was very dark and draughty. There was also a lean too extension on this making a total length of about 30'. I had plans to renovate/rebuild it in blocks with wooden cladding and double glazing but I was over-ruled on that. In fact when I investigated a bit more the old garage was about ready to collapse and I had to be very careful taking it down. In 2018 we went to look at greenhouses and found a 20' x 10' "log cabin" on display. We bought a greenhouse and I also ordered a cabin although I didn't like the double doors being in the centre of the long side. I completed building it by October 2018 and fitted it out with kitchen cupboard base units on one short side and halfway along the long side at the rear. These were for support of the baseboards and for storage. I eventually started track laying in about May 2019. I started out with a copy of the main station from the previous layout. This is loosely based on Brent in South Devon. Because of the centre doors I was restricted to about 9' on that side and even then it was over one side of the double door. My other half also wanted to use some space for an exercise bike so my original idea of a dog bone shape layout wouldn't work. I ended up with a continous run not a great deal bigger than the old layout.
Train Building Rolling stock Vehicle Sky

This is the main station, I am not happy with the platforms and intend to rebuild them soon. I have also lengthend the station a bit, more later.
The other side featured a country station partly based on Midsomer Norton in Somerset.
Train Mountain Sky Cloud Paint


Note my attempt at painting a backscene, I used acrylics which everyone says dry darker but this turned out far too bright and garish so was discarded.
I kept things as they were until early this year. I decided that crawling under the board to get in the middle was getting a bit much now I am 70! Also, just going round and round was not that interesting.
I had already extended the board along the rear for about 18', I left space at the end for access to the electrical consumer unit, and had laid some more sidings/ fiddle yard. After a bit of thought and measuring I realised that I could do away with the roundy roundy style and duck under and replace the small station with a double track return loop. The fiddle yard was relaid with crossovers to allow access to all roads from each direction. This also allowed the station to be lengthend slightly so that a 3 coach train and loco fits in the bay with room to spare. The loop line crosses over a vally on a viaduct and then enters a tunnel before returning back towards the station and fiddle yard.
Table Cabinetry Wood Window Interior design


I have completed more landscaping since this picture was taken in June this year and made a start with ballasting the track here. As you can probably see I used two DPDT switches to change to polarity in the loops, this works ok with DCC and I found that I could actually reverse the switch with a train on the loop with just a bit of hesitation in speed. This differed with diferent locos, possibly due to different decoders. I have a mixture of Lenz, Hornby, Hattons in use. I recently fitted Digitrax reversing modules instead, these were easy to set up and work a treat.
I am trying to concentrat on one job at a time to get at least one part looking acceptable before moving on to the next part.

More to follow soon.
Chris
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Welcome back!

<SNIP>
The loop line crosses over a vally on a viaduct and then enters a tunnel before returning back towards the station and fiddle yard.

<SNIP>
I will say that I very much like the changes in levels with the hillside, valley and castle atop, it flows nicely!

Regards,

Cameron.
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Welcome back!


I will say that I very much like the changes in levels with the hillside, valley and castle atop, it flows nicely!

Regards,

Cameron.
Hi Cameron, Thanks for the kind comments. I am pleased with it so far, I was taught woodwork at school far too many years ago but I won't call myself a joiner, more a higher class of wood butcher! The track is on the level and I managed to drop the level too make a valley for the viaduct to cross. I have cast some rock faces from moulds to place at the back of teh valley below the castle. The castle was a christmas present and fits in well on the hill top. You can see where it will go in this picture.
Plant Window Wood Flooring Floor

More to come soon I hope,
Chris
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Just a few more pictures of the viaduct area. I forgot to mention that the layout is set in the West Country, probably in Somerset and is an unlikely blend of GWR, S&DJR, LSWR/Southern. On processing the pictures I realise I need the duster out! Photographs really show what you don't "see".
Train Nature Vehicle Rolling stock Track

GWR Railcar crossing the viaduct, I ended up with 2 of these via a duplicate order. They are the only diesels so far.
Train Plant Vehicle Rolling stock Track

S&D 7F with a coal train and cobwebs!
Train Nature Plant Vehicle Rolling stock

I liked this composition so have included it even though there is camera shake, I must have bumped the tripod, must try harder!
Chris
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Nice job and coming along very well, those SDJR locos are very nice I have 5 of them and a kit built older one, quite a nice idea to fuse the three lines and why not, I was disappointed to find that the MSWJ was not closer to the SDJR and of course that would introduce GWR locos as well, anyway I went with the GCR in the 1960's to get maximum choice of locos.
Great looking shed too shame about the doors and somewhere you have to have a duck under whatever you do.

Hope you keep the pics coming
Kris
Thanks for the comments Kris. I changed the format from Roundy Roundy to get rid of the duck under. Here is a very rough diagram of the layout, not to scale, this is a quicky, I have forgotten how to draw curves with this programme and the online help link isn't working so forgive the roughness and straight lines where there ought to be curves.
Font Rectangle Parallel Pattern Slope



The sidings labelled as carriage sidings where the original fiddle yard which was to have been loops on both the up and down lines but they would have been too short to be any practicle use. i removed one side to make room for the engine shed and turntable but left the others in place. I hope to complete more of the scenery around the viaduct tomorrow if I have time.
Chris
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Hi Chris It's good to see you back and with a new layout and layout (room) which looks great and i'm liking your progress. There are a lot of similarity with what I am doing and considering doing. I like your theme of area and mixture of companies . I get the duck under thing, nearing retirement it is in my thoughts as well. Keep posting please. Jim
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Hi Jim, I lived with the duck under for about 3 years but I kept bumping my head as well as finding it a bit more of a struggle to get into the middle to operate the layout. Now I can just walk round and it also gave me more usable storage space underneath to keep my G scale outdoor rolling stock. It was getting too much trouble to drag the stock boxes out and under the baseboard to run trains outside, the object of the game is to be able to run trains and not make it more difficult! Not too much progress at the moment, all the hedges need trimming ( I have about 400' of hedge some need both sides so it takes a few days now). At the moment I am trying to make a river under the viaduct. I made the shape by cutting away some of the foam insulation used as a scenery base to make the water course. The bottom has been painted with dark green shading to yellow ochre at the edges, I have also glued some "pebbles" sold as a stone wagon load along the edges to make a shingle edge. I am now giving it several coats of clear varnish, so far so good. The water will appear to come out of the cliff face at the back (no pictures yet) as per Wookey Hole in Somerset.
I hope to have a few more pictures soon when teh varnish dries, it is white at the moment but will go clear by tomorrow.
Chris
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I've not been to Wookey Hole since childhood Chedder caves although some time ago is more recent. I thought my hedges were a pain but nothing like 400ft sounds like it keeps you busy and active. Very important something i've been thinking about a lot just lately . Look forward to more pictures. Jim
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It's about 12 years since I visited Wookey and Cheddar, we stayed at the Caravan Club site near Burnham. You can't find much of the S&D left there, most of the station seems to be a car park, the old "jetty" is still there of course.
Finished the hedges this morning and had a break from gardening to do a bit on the layout. I am fitting surface mounted point motors at the moment. I had several left from the previous layout and have carried on with them as the baseboards are mounted on kitchen cupboard units and it is awkward working underneath. The baseboards were built in situ so I can't turn them over to work on them. I can live with them and will try to hide them as best I can, for instance the points for the double junction are hidden behind the signal cabin from the viewing side. I have also repaired a couple of signals built from Ratio kits and placed them today, now the junction is protected by a home signal.
Plant Nature Grass Architecture Body of water

N15 no. 771 Sir Sagramore on the viaduct. I have processed this to look like evening light. The rock face is nearly finished and the water is coming on. I used a rather deep coat of varnish on Tuesday and it still hasnt dried completely clear yet, I will add more coats as thinner layers when possible.
Train Land vehicle Vehicle Rolling stock Wheel

Another shot of 771

Train Building Rolling stock Transport hub Cloud

This is the goods yard and station, much still to do here! The back scene is an old rather tired one temporarily tacked in place, it will do for now.

Building Window Wood Mode of transport City

Looking along the track into the station.
Train Vehicle Rolling stock Toy Wheel

4050 on the turntable. This is a second hand Hornby unit bought "untested". It worked! I had to come up with a way of powering it as it is designed to work off the dc track supply. I use dcc so this wasn't going to be any good. I had a Hamment and Morgan rheostat type controller which must be 60 years old but works. I powered this from a plug/transformer saved from some computer equipment, it gives out about 9v dc so the turntable rotates nice and slowly. I am still thinking of a way to disguise the plastic box housing the motor and also the black plastic base. I can bury that under scenery i suppose.
The water tower is only placed there temporarily. The hut in teh background hides a tag strip which connects 2 point motors.
Chris
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Neat installation of the turntable, 'sunk' in that way. I would infill with loose 'cut to fit' corrugated card pieces - a little tedious agreed - and top with brown paper lightly secured with PVA, as the base for scenic treatment. The 'why' of this is easily removeable in the event of need for access.
Thanks for that. I had thought about using some of the cork covered corugated cardboard you can see on teh left of the picture. This was part of an old display board and I have enough left I think.I didn't want to cover it so well that it is impossible to get at if the turntable needs any repairs so the idea of lightly fixing paper over the outside edge seems a good idea. I will see how that looks.
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I should have suggested an alternative adhesive for securing the paper - expensive for a small one off project - but it works so well. That's 3M spraymount, (doubtless there are equivalents) also good for mounting pictures, putting up backscene, and for an excellent wheeze from another modeller, on underboard point motor access.

Drill a half inch hole for the actuating rod, get it all set up and working, and then before ballasting take a square of brown wrapping paper about 40mm on a side, slit it just over half way across, and open the slit very slightly in the centre to allow free movement of the rod. Mask off the slot, then spray the paper with adhesive, lift the point slightly, slide the paper into position sticky side down, recheck the action and once sure the location is correct, press down to secure. This way there is no trouble with the drive aligment adjustment, and no gaping hole for loose ballast to fall through.
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I should have suggested an alternative adhesive for securing the paper - expensive for a small one off project - but it works so well. That's 3M spraymount, (doubtless there are equivalents) also good for mounting pictures, putting up backscene, and for an excellent wheeze from another modeller, on underboard point motor access.

Drill a half inch hole for the actuating rod, get it all set up and working, and then before ballasting take a square of brown wrapping paper about 40mm on a side, slit it just over half way across, and open the slit very slightly in the centre to allow free movement of the rod. Mask off the slot, then spray the paper with adhesive, lift the point slightly, slide the paper into position sticky side down, recheck the action and once sure the location is correct, press down to secure. This way there is no trouble with the drive aligment adjustment, and no gaping hole for loose ballast to fall through.
I have some 3M spray mount, I use it for picture mounting and have used it for fixing downloaded printed kits onto card before cutting the pieces out to make buildings. This has lasted several years on some buildings I have made. The only problem I have found is that you need good quality paper or the ink gradually fades and changes colour. I found that out the hard way.
Chris
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I have some 3M spray mount, I use it for picture mounting and have used it for fixing downloaded printed kits onto card before cutting the pieces out to make buildings. This has lasted several years on some buildings I have made. The only problem I have found is that you need good quality paper or the ink gradually fades and changes colour. I found that out the hard way.
Chris
I found out about Ink-Jet fading - quite quickly, as it turned out :oops: . The immediate solution was to get our local Ryman shop to Laser print on good paper. They even laminated the Switch and Mimic board one for me. Very good value and persuaded me, recently, to buy a small colour Laser desktop printer.

Julian
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I found out about Ink-Jet fading - quite quickly, as it turned out :oops: . The immediate solution was to get our local Ryman shop to Laser print on good paper. They even laminated the Switch and Mimic board one for me. Very good value and persuaded me, recently, to buy a small colour Laser desktop printer.

Julian
When I was still at work we had a laser printer but only a black and white one. I found it very good. We also had a laminator and I made up quite a lot of small items with it. You can cut the laminated paper up into quite small pieces ( ie labels ) and they stay together. Next time I need to replace the cheap printer I will look into a colour laser one. My main printer is a Canon Photographic printer, very expensive on ink!
Chris
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I have been working on more scenery since last Friday and have just about completed the rockface behind the viaduct. The rocks are a mixture of plaster formed in a mould and bark from a dead willow in my garden. I sprayed the lot with grey acrylic and then dabbed on yellow ochre with a final wash of black. I am pleased with the look. The conifers are from a "learn to make trees kit" from Woodland Scenics and look a bit like Lodgepole Pines from North America rather than the sort of pines you might find in the West Country but the look good. The river is a bit of a problem at the moment, I bought Ronseal Clear Varnish to make the water. I was a bit dubious when I opened the tin as it was milky in appearance. I tried a thim coat and after a few hours it seemed to dry clear. I painted on 2 further coats, still ok. I then added a thicker layer and it now has a slightly milky appearance after about 4 days. I can only wait and see if this is due to it not fully drying yet ( the nights are colder and damper so it might take a long while), or if it doesn't clear I shall have to repaint the water and try another varnish.
Wood Grass Vegetation Brickwork Brick


I took a couple of pictures of the viaduct as below.
Train Plant Nature Green Rolling stock

Collet Goods which seems to have a problem, I didn't see that I had dislodged the tender when I took this but thought I would show it anyway as how not to do it.

Train Plant Building Rolling stock Light

Here is a better result of Drummond T9 and train.
Chris
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I am gradually installing surface mounted point motors using up some old Peco ones from a previous layout and I have been trying the items from Rails of Sheffield. At first I had a job getting the Rails one in position, they seemed to need to be exactly in the right place whereas the Peco ones are not so critical. I found most of the trouble was that the Rails motors have a joggle in the actuator bar to accomodate for a track underlay. I hadn't noticed this at first, failing eyesight, when I did I cut away some of the underlay to mount the motor directly onto the baseboard and all was well. The bar didn't keep coming of the point tiebar etc. The only criticism I would have for the Rails motors is the tiny screws supplied are not up to good quality plywood. I had to use larger brass screws instead but these will tone down. The Rails motors are slightly smaller than the Peco ones and as they are mounted lower should be easier to disguise with ballast etc.
Chris
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I like the way the railway bridge masonry detail references the Castle crenellation. That was typical of the style of the C19th architects, looking for some relationship to past structures. Not like today's 'I can make it ugly, any way I want'.
I like the way the railway bridge masonry detail references the Castle crenellation. That was typical of the style of the C19th architects, looking for some relationship to past structures. Not like today's 'I can make it ugly, any way I want'.
That was purely by luck as they are both Metcalf kits but let's say it is a happy accident. I am glad you like it.
Chris
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