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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Some of you will already have seen some of these models but because I am so keen on using card as a modelling medium and think that it a much under rated material I like to spread the word among as many people as possible. Especially the young who may not have so much cash to spend and who would like to see what can be done with very little effort and cost. If any interest is shown then I will continue with various models but if not then that is perfectly understandable and the subject will just fade away.
Enough of the blurb and here is the start of a diesel locomotive washing facility. I am not a scale modeller of prototype material as I like designing my own models once I get a general idea of what's needed.
This first photograph shows that model is going to have two tracks, a layby outside the facility, for interior cleaning, and the main track inside. Here you can see that the card platforms are installed and work has started on the support girders. The short length of track is just there for measurement purposes.

 

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To open up the topic a little more CeeDee, I have built a couple of card kits recently (Metcalf) and been pleasantly surprised, so maybe I can become a "convert to cardboard", - it's cheaper that plasticard!!
My question is, how can I add extra detail? (Drainpipes etc) Can I stick plastic bits on, if so with what glue? Also is there a simple way of highlighting the relief effect of stone or brick finishes.
Finally, what do you find to be the best glue to use and weathering method. (OK that's two finallys).
Thanks in anticipation.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Hi Jeff, I have always used white PVA glue for all my card work. I have a glass work surface (from an old coffee table) and if I want plenty of time to mess with the glued joints then I use the glue straight from the tube, if I want a more or less instant joint then I squeeze some of the PVA onto the glass surface and leave it for a few minutes to dry out a little before using it. Any mess on the glass surface is easily removed, when the glue has dried out, using the end of my steel ruler as a push scraper. The glass surface is also an excellent place to get things square as it is perfectly flat. As for sticking detail, if the detail is light then I find the PVA fine regardless of the material being used. Any other cases, i.e. plastic windows to card then I find UHU as good as anything else. Brick paper to card in small pieces, PVA spread with the finger is fine but anything larger than a couple of square inches I find an office or school type liquid gum is best.
Highlighting is easily achieved by running a thin dark paint over the scribed brickwork and then wiping it off quickly. I use exactly the same technique, as do many others, on my scribed plaster work for walls etc.
Hope this helps.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Things are now starting to come together and you can get a better idea of what I am about with this next photograph. The girders have been painted and the high pressure water pipes installed. As you can see the Class66 is still hanging around.

 

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Thanks CeeDee, your reply helps no end.
I've been using Copydex on my Metcalf kits, applied with a small brush, which is very good. The main problem is that even when kept in water between applications, the brush gets in one hell of a state very quickly.
Just one more question (sorry ) Have you scribed Metcalf card kits? I'm afraid to try it without advice in case I ruin their excellent printing. Perhaps I should be using a different scriber!!
Thanks again, I'll be watching your future posts on this topic.
 

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Just a thought CeeDee, what about a section on how to build with card on your website. As a regular reader, I am sure I'm not alone in saying I would find it useful.
If it would be too much of an undertaking, perhaps a few brief tips would be better than nothing.

Or am I just a mad Welshman who wants the world and can buy a book with all the information, thereby leaving you in peace and quiet to do what you really want to do with your time?
If so just tell me to sod off, I'm pretty thick skinned and slow to take offence, even if I do enjoy reading how other people "do their thing".
Whatever, many thanks for a very enjoyable website, which I would (and do) recommend to anyone.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Hi Jeff, if you are condsidering scribing ready printed card, as in the Metcalfe kits, then one of the best tools I have found is an old biro, empty of course. There are various sizes and sharpness of balls on these pens so if you are having a go then practice on a piece of scrap from the kit, the last thing you want to do is break through the paper surface. There are always bits and pieces left from the kits for you to try scribing on. Also most important is to make sure that the ink reservoir is indeed empty. The pens I use I first strip down, pull off the plastic reservoir and then make sure the roller end is perfectly clean. Let me know how you get on if you do decide to press on with it.
As for your other idea I may well have a go at that when I find the time.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
For me Dennis this is what model railways are all about. I don't have the talent to be an artist or a musician, much to my regret, so this is the next best thing as far as I am concerned. The beauty of these models is that they are well within the capabilities of most modellers and that is why I put them on the internet hoping that more people will have a go and so get even more out of this great hobby of ours.
 

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>I don't have the talent to be an artist or a musician

Well, I'm really enjoying watching each stage as it progresses; it's inspirational


David
 

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Nice model Bob, to my eye, equally as good as anything I can produce in Plasticard !
I assume that the painting has been done with acrylics or watercolours ? Whatever, the finish is good.
Now I'm starting to understand how the modellers at Pendon can produce such good work !
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
I bet your efforts had to be exact to scale though Dennis, no such restrictions on me fortunately.

Water colour, acrylic and enamels Jeff, depends a lot on the effect I want as they all look different on card as they soak into the material as opposed to sitting on it's surface.
 

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thats looks great CeeDeeI,
i was wondering , how much time does it take to assemble and also how much it would cost to build 1

i could use this idea to make a garage for my (slot ) cars
 
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