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Top tips for Disco-Dave with regard to card modelling.
Don't try and economise on blades for cutting, as soon as the keen edge has gone replace the blade. You don't have to use expensive craft knives if you can't afford them as the cheap Chinese imports of plastic knives with the snap off blades are fine for the job.
A strong steel straight edge for cutting, never plastic or wood.
The new self healing cutting boards are quite good as a surface to cut on but my preference is plate glass. My work table has a sheet from an old coffee table but in the past I have used a car window from the scrap yard. Glass is also very good for putting blobs of glue on to work with as when it dries it is easily scraped off with the short end of the steel straight edge and best of all it is perfectly flat for testing your models on.
Don't use cheap cardboard with a high soft fibre content as this soaks up moisture from the air. The card should be really 'hard'. I used to get my basic building card, when living in the UK, from a local printers outfit. Quite cheap in big sheets. Art shops sell good quality card as well. Photographic mounting card is also good, if quite expensive.The finer card for detailing I get from filing cards, post card, old Christmas card and even old medicine boxes. It's suprising what good quality card some manufacturers use for their products.
I believe that white PVA glue to be the best all round stringless adhesive to use.
Shellac is very good as a preservative for card and a damp proofer if your circumstances dictate the need. Shellac is also sold as button polish. I buy mine as brown flakes and melt it down with methylated spirits.
Don't be tempted to use over thick card as it isn't necessary, unless the scale you are working in needs it of course.

Some of my card models are over half a century old and still as good today as when they were first made so don't let people tell you that card models don't last.

That's enough to be going on with Dave and if you need any further help then just ask.

Thanks for the information about the lighting John, hadn't thought about vapour dangers but there agin Barchester doesn't have a financial problem at the moment so expense doesn't really come into it. Nothings too good for the boys you know.
 

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Now you can see in this picture that the unit is now capable of offloading from rail tankers from either track after the addition of further pipework. The monitoring equipment is now in it's correct place and the delivery pumps, complete with hoses, for fuelling locomotives, are also in position.

 

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Discussion Starter · #56 ·
Hi John. I think that probably the Barchester fuelling unit comes under the larger ones with regard to size but as I said before, from a modelling point of view another set of awnings hid too much detail so I took them away. That's all useful information though and will go down in the Barchester technical log.
 

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Discussion Starter · #59 ·
Showing that the biggest of Barchester's locomotives fits snugly into the new unit. It is completed now except for the ballasting, bit of grass edging and some white fencing, just finished 12 yards of that so there's no shortage, oh, and a timber cross track walkway for the staff.

 

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Discussion Starter · #60 ·
This is the final product with everything in place that was mentioned in the previous post. After a few hours effort, absolute minimum cost and a lot of satisfaction I have another model that is unique to Barchester. Not to everyones liking of course, and don't even mention being correct to scale but for me it's a question of making it look right for the part it has to play on Barchester and that's the starting point for everything I build.

 

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The next project was something totally different and much simpler to make with plain card and some off cuts of square timber. Barchester needed a jetty for it's main canal basin and this was the result. Once more totally freelance without pretentions of being anything otherwise.
In this picture you can see the plain top of the jetty which has been scribed for planking and then coloured with wood dye. The 'legs' are short lengths of square timber.

 

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Discussion Starter · #63 ·
Here you can see that the jetty has had all the bits added to it from the previous photograph plus a few drums and crates. There is much more to add once the model has been installed on the layout and a friend has given me a plastic kit of a crane which should be suitable for the jetty. I am not a lover of plastic kits, much preferring to make my own stuff and having looked at the bits and pieces that make up the kit I cannot see a problem with making them from card.

 

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Here we have the new plastic crane fitted to the jetty so now the whole thing can be positioned in it's permanent home in the larger of the two canal basins on Barchester. Notice how effective the use of simple materials can be, bits of card, nails, string etc.

 

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With regard to the first post all the girder work is made from card and was painted in situ as I don't really like handling things after they are painted, especially when acrylic paints have been used. The platforms are scribed card, grooved, then given a wash of dirty water (water that has been used for cleaning brushes) and then wiped with a rag.
The jetty has been laid with individual planks of card, on top of a card base, and then the whole thing painted with a wood dye.
Hope this answers your questions ok keekster.
 

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Discussion Starter · #71 ·
N gauge has never been my thing keekster but I see no reason why card shouldn't be just as good in N gauge as it is in 00 gauge if that is what you are thinking of. Presumably you are a lot younger than I am so you shouldn't have difficulty with the eyes and hands in that scale whereas now I would find it almost impossible to work to so small a size in the things I like making..
 

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If you can handle the Metcalfe kits without any problem keekster then I would tend to stick with card as a modelling medium as you are obviously comfortable with it. The only wooden jetties I have ever seen are on other peoples model railways so I have presumed that that is what they look like and mine has been made to fit a space. All the other projects at Barchester are to my own design. The criteria being what I think they should look like and not as they are in reality. If my design and reality just happen to coincide then all well and good, if not then that's realities loss and Barchesters gain. In reality and the prototype world Barchester doesn't exist so why should any of it's component parts have to comply with prototype standards especially if it is to the models detriment?
 

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Further to my remarks a couple or three posts back about making cranes from card, as Barchester needed at least two more of them, here is a picture of how I went about it. On the left is a partially constructed crane and on the right the cut out bits for the identical second one. No problems so far. Components are all card, paper and short lengths of kebab sticks.

 
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