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Hi CeeDeeI,

I've really enjoyed following this thread, and seeing the models and layout develop. As a beginner, just starting on my first layout, what would be your top tips for successfully modelling in card?
 

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I've recently started using Metcalfe Kits and find them very good. You do need to make up details like gutters and downpipes, but it's worth it. The idea about a coating to protect the card is good, and I'll be having a look round for something. I'm in the middle of a Metcalfe Signal Box at the moment and decided to do a bit of an interior. I built a passing resemblance. to a lever frame from lolly sticks and matchsticks, a bench and some block instruments from the same, and intend to do a stove and such like from whatever else comes to hand. I have to say that cee dee's work inspires people like me, and that we're not seeing enough of him on rmweb.
 

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Dear Bob,
Very interesting work.

Re lighting your fuel unloading point - I think they would be more likely to use lamps on columns a little distance away. This would be to have the lights outside the area of a potential vapour leak so they don't have to use expensive vapour-resistant fittings. I recall a small fuel point at Cricklewood I used to pass each day which was lit this way but did have extra low-level bulkhead fittings to illuminate the hose connection points.
Regards,
John Webb
 

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Top tips for Disco-Dave with regard to card modelling.
Don't try and economise on blades for cutting, as soon as the keen edge has gone replace the blade. You don't have to use expensive craft knives if you can't afford them as the cheap Chinese imports of plastic knives with the snap off blades are fine for the job.
A strong steel straight edge for cutting, never plastic or wood.
The new self healing cutting boards are quite good as a surface to cut on but my preference is plate glass. My work table has a sheet from an old coffee table but in the past I have used a car window from the scrap yard. Glass is also very good for putting blobs of glue on to work with as when it dries it is easily scraped off with the short end of the steel straight edge and best of all it is perfectly flat for testing your models on.
Don't use cheap cardboard with a high soft fibre content as this soaks up moisture from the air. The card should be really 'hard'. I used to get my basic building card, when living in the UK, from a local printers outfit. Quite cheap in big sheets. Art shops sell good quality card as well. Photographic mounting card is also good, if quite expensive.The finer card for detailing I get from filing cards, post card, old Christmas card and even old medicine boxes. It's suprising what good quality card some manufacturers use for their products.
I believe that white PVA glue to be the best all round stringless adhesive to use.
Shellac is very good as a preservative for card and a damp proofer if your circumstances dictate the need. Shellac is also sold as button polish. I buy mine as brown flakes and melt it down with methylated spirits.
Don't be tempted to use over thick card as it isn't necessary, unless the scale you are working in needs it of course.

Some of my card models are over half a century old and still as good today as when they were first made so don't let people tell you that card models don't last.

That's enough to be going on with Dave and if you need any further help then just ask.

Thanks for the information about the lighting John, hadn't thought about vapour dangers but there agin Barchester doesn't have a financial problem at the moment so expense doesn't really come into it. Nothings too good for the boys you know.
 

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Now you can see in this picture that the unit is now capable of offloading from rail tankers from either track after the addition of further pipework. The monitoring equipment is now in it's correct place and the delivery pumps, complete with hoses, for fuelling locomotives, are also in position.

 

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Just a short note to endorse CeeDee in his use of PVA glue for card.
I've tried everything over the years and glue was one of the main reasons I gave up trying with card.
Now a pot of neat PVA, a brush, a pot of water and a cloth, and I'm away. Cheers CeeDee !!
 

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Dear Bob,
Re sheltering from the rain - the most important consideration in full-scale practice is to minimise water getting into the fuel. From photos in a couple of books, very small fuel points didn't seem to worry, larger points had an awning high enough to cover part of the side of the loco. In this case the lighting was enclosed fluorescent fittings hung under the awning.
Regards,
John Webb
 

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Discussion Starter · #56 ·
Hi John. I think that probably the Barchester fuelling unit comes under the larger ones with regard to size but as I said before, from a modelling point of view another set of awnings hid too much detail so I took them away. That's all useful information though and will go down in the Barchester technical log.
 

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Discussion Starter · #59 ·
Showing that the biggest of Barchester's locomotives fits snugly into the new unit. It is completed now except for the ballasting, bit of grass edging and some white fencing, just finished 12 yards of that so there's no shortage, oh, and a timber cross track walkway for the staff.

 

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Discussion Starter · #60 ·
This is the final product with everything in place that was mentioned in the previous post. After a few hours effort, absolute minimum cost and a lot of satisfaction I have another model that is unique to Barchester. Not to everyones liking of course, and don't even mention being correct to scale but for me it's a question of making it look right for the part it has to play on Barchester and that's the starting point for everything I build.

 
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