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Cardboard Modelling On Barchester

27618 Views 185 Replies 27 Participants Last post by  Brian
Some of you will already have seen some of these models but because I am so keen on using card as a modelling medium and think that it a much under rated material I like to spread the word among as many people as possible. Especially the young who may not have so much cash to spend and who would like to see what can be done with very little effort and cost. If any interest is shown then I will continue with various models but if not then that is perfectly understandable and the subject will just fade away.
Enough of the blurb and here is the start of a diesel locomotive washing facility. I am not a scale modeller of prototype material as I like designing my own models once I get a general idea of what's needed.
This first photograph shows that model is going to have two tracks, a layby outside the facility, for interior cleaning, and the main track inside. Here you can see that the card platforms are installed and work has started on the support girders. The short length of track is just there for measurement purposes.

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Used kebab sticks? Yuk! Dear me no, Barchester is far to refained for that carry on.
One of the pair of cranes almost completed and under test in the Barchester workshops.

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One of the two new cranes in service in the Barchester timber yard.

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No Jeff, not plastic but card with a layer of plaster which is then scribed for the brickwork. The beauty of this is that you are not tied to any manufacturers output but can have whatever finish you need.
Here is a picture of the second crane in action in the Goods Yard. Again everything here is of card or paper except for the milk churns.

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Hi keekster. The goods platform is part of the Metcalfe card kit. They are a really good series. The pipework is paper from the printer, ordinary cheap stuff, cut into strips, rolled round a paint brush handle and then a touch of PVA slid along the long edge. Then it's just a matter of continuing the roll with the fingers. About three or four minutes practice and you will have the technique off easily. Also great for chimney pots and works to almost any diameter. The fuel tanks on the Barchester diesel refuelling point were done in the same way with the same material.
My brick paper sheets usually come from Signal Box, the people I usually deal with for my kit.
The next project I'm looking at keekster is quite a simple affair but still effective in it's own way, a set of stables for Barchesters own Jones the coal who still uses horses for his coal wagons.
Hi keekster, if you want a very reasonable ready made road surface then try the tarcamadam on this Metcalfe site. There is a generous amount in each pack. Everything depends on the kind of road surface you want to represent from the smooth, modern day tarmac to the rough and rutted country roads of old.

Again for roof tiles in different colours try this site at Superquick.

These different coloured tile papers can be used as is, they can be 'soft'scribed with an old biro tip to give them definition or cut into strips and overlaid with each other. Or, as I tend to do when scratch building, use paper strips of different roughness with the separate tiles nicked and overlaid then coloured and weathered to suit. Weathering will make a big difference to whatever you use for both road surface and roofing.
While having no financial interest in either of the companies mentioned I would heartily endorse all their products.
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Here are the stables under construction. Comprising two buildings, one enclosed with stable doors and the other an open structure. The almost completed one is all of card while the one at the front has a rear and side walls of card while the framing is made of the large BBQ match sticks and toothpicks for the round side bars. The roofs, of corrugated card, are coloured and weathered as required.

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Here are the two buildings assembled and in position with the card fencing added.

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Hi Richard. Nothing fancy with my windows I'm afraid. Each one is cut out from it's card wall, backed with any celluloid type material I happen to have, old packing material, shirt collar stiffeners etc, then the glazing bars are added as needed from slices of white or coloured, usually white, sticky labels. Lentils, sills, fancy brick surrounds and any further exterior decoration added as needed. Doing the windows this way they can be as plain or as fancy as you need, from old warehouses to country hotels. Nothing high tech on Barchester.
It looks as if it should work ok keekster. Personally I wouldn't have taken up so much room with the engine shed but that's just me. How many fiddle yard tracks have you got there? No release crossover on the platform line either, is that deliberate or an oversight?
Here is the finished stable model complete with suitable livestock. They should be comfortable enough there as well as helping to fill the coffers of the Barchester Railway Preservation Society on open days.

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Here's the start of another card model, this time an open sided saw shed. Very simple to make but can be quite effective in the right place. This first photograph shows the base and the supporting posts for the walls and roof.

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Thanks Raider, it just might encourage someone to have a go, hopefully.
Yes keekster, I find wood stain very effective on card and easy to get different effects.
Hi keekster. With regard to the white building. On scribed walls I would always apply a thin coat of paint of the required colour as this accentuates the scribing as you are dealing with two different surfaces, the smooth uncut surface and the rougher finish inside the cut and this produces two different shades of your colour. If you are sure you don't want to do this then get a small off cut of card and scribe it the same as your model then get some white water colour paint with just a touch of black in it and wash it over the surface of the scribed card then quickly wipe it off with a soft piece of cloth. You may have to try it a couple of times till you get the wash right for your building. If this seems a bit drastic then get a very sharp hard pencil and lightly, very lightly, go over the scoring. Again try this on a piece of scrap card first. Finally I have to say it is not a good idea to leave a white card surface in the raw as it is so easily marked and almost impossible to clean without marking it further.
The brick paper is marked out over size, put on after the card is cut out and the surplus folded over the card edges. This also applies to door and window openings.
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Apart from the adhesive Brian yours is the same method as I use. My preference is for gum but mainly because here in Spain it is the easiest thing for me to obtain and yes it does have slip qualities but not as much as your paste I would think.
Keekster don't be too concerned about having pure white walls as I'm sure you realise that, unless freshly painted, there will be all kinds of stains from the weather and other things.
Here we have a photograph of the open sided saw shed in two halves. The base and then the walls and roof. It is much easier to build this type of thing in a modular form and then fix the sections together later on. The corrugated roof has been added, but not coloured yet and the base is almost complete. Apart from the roof supports, sawdust and the saw blade, all construction is from card.

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