Model Railway Forum banner
41 - 60 of 95 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
375 Posts
No Jeff, not plastic but card with a layer of plaster which is then scribed for the brickwork. The beauty of this is that you are not tied to any manufacturers output but can have whatever finish you need.
Here is a picture of the second crane in action in the Goods Yard. Again everything here is of card or paper except for the milk churns.

 

·
Registered
Joined
·
375 Posts
Discussion Starter · #82 ·
Hi keekster. The goods platform is part of the Metcalfe card kit. They are a really good series. The pipework is paper from the printer, ordinary cheap stuff, cut into strips, rolled round a paint brush handle and then a touch of PVA slid along the long edge. Then it's just a matter of continuing the roll with the fingers. About three or four minutes practice and you will have the technique off easily. Also great for chimney pots and works to almost any diameter. The fuel tanks on the Barchester diesel refuelling point were done in the same way with the same material.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
375 Posts
Hi keekster, if you want a very reasonable ready made road surface then try the tarcamadam on this Metcalfe site. There is a generous amount in each pack. Everything depends on the kind of road surface you want to represent from the smooth, modern day tarmac to the rough and rutted country roads of old.

http://www.metcalfemodels.com/acatalog/Bui..._Materials.html

Again for roof tiles in different colours try this site at Superquick.

http://www.superquick.co.uk/d_seriesframes.htm

These different coloured tile papers can be used as is, they can be 'soft'scribed with an old biro tip to give them definition or cut into strips and overlaid with each other. Or, as I tend to do when scratch building, use paper strips of different roughness with the separate tiles nicked and overlaid then coloured and weathered to suit. Weathering will make a big difference to whatever you use for both road surface and roofing.
While having no financial interest in either of the companies mentioned I would heartily endorse all their products.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
375 Posts
Discussion Starter · #89 ·
Here are the stables under construction. Comprising two buildings, one enclosed with stable doors and the other an open structure. The almost completed one is all of card while the one at the front has a rear and side walls of card while the framing is made of the large BBQ match sticks and toothpicks for the round side bars. The roofs, of corrugated card, are coloured and weathered as required.

 

·
Registered
Joined
·
375 Posts
Discussion Starter · #92 ·
Hi Richard. Nothing fancy with my windows I'm afraid. Each one is cut out from it's card wall, backed with any celluloid type material I happen to have, old packing material, shirt collar stiffeners etc, then the glazing bars are added as needed from slices of white or coloured, usually white, sticky labels. Lentils, sills, fancy brick surrounds and any further exterior decoration added as needed. Doing the windows this way they can be as plain or as fancy as you need, from old warehouses to country hotels. Nothing high tech on Barchester.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
375 Posts
Hi keekster. With regard to the white building. On scribed walls I would always apply a thin coat of paint of the required colour as this accentuates the scribing as you are dealing with two different surfaces, the smooth uncut surface and the rougher finish inside the cut and this produces two different shades of your colour. If you are sure you don't want to do this then get a small off cut of card and scribe it the same as your model then get some white water colour paint with just a touch of black in it and wash it over the surface of the scribed card then quickly wipe it off with a soft piece of cloth. You may have to try it a couple of times till you get the wash right for your building. If this seems a bit drastic then get a very sharp hard pencil and lightly, very lightly, go over the scoring. Again try this on a piece of scrap card first. Finally I have to say it is not a good idea to leave a white card surface in the raw as it is so easily marked and almost impossible to clean without marking it further.
The brick paper is marked out over size, put on after the card is cut out and the surplus folded over the card edges. This also applies to door and window openings.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
375 Posts
Discussion Starter · #111 ·
Apart from the adhesive Brian yours is the same method as I use. My preference is for gum but mainly because here in Spain it is the easiest thing for me to obtain and yes it does have slip qualities but not as much as your paste I would think.
Keekster don't be too concerned about having pure white walls as I'm sure you realise that, unless freshly painted, there will be all kinds of stains from the weather and other things.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
375 Posts
Here we have a photograph of the open sided saw shed in two halves. The base and then the walls and roof. It is much easier to build this type of thing in a modular form and then fix the sections together later on. The corrugated roof has been added, but not coloured yet and the base is almost complete. Apart from the roof supports, sawdust and the saw blade, all construction is from card.

 
41 - 60 of 95 Posts
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top