[TheBufoon]

I do like the old Hornby/Triang Loco's. The Class 35 Hymek is one of my favorites.

Lots of damage to the body, especialy when I tried to dismantle, I like a challenge though !

So far I have got the motor Bogie in a reasonable working order, now to work on the body.

Wish me luck !!

So lets try to clean the plastic, I know that using caustic soda is maybe not the way to go, but as a cheap alternitive to Modelstrip or evan Brake Fluid, I thought I would give it a go.

The water is turning Blue ! That's good. is in not !

 

[Guest]

You could find a secondhand bodyshell from your local model shop etc or E-bay, Hornby may still have some lying around, might save you some time and cursing, I have a spare bodyshell in the UK, unfortunately I will not be back until July/Aug, but good luck anyway.

Dick

 

[7113]

Hmm - I think that body shell is possibly long past it's sell by date, and as a result I would tend to look out for another bodyshell.

Nice to see that you got it running well though.

Regards

 

[OldSutt]

I had the problem of cleaning some grotty Airfix B set white roofs recently. Water removed some of the grime, but "she who must be obeyed" thrust some Cif (Jif) cream at me, saying "try this". Much to my suprise it worked and by not using too much and rinsing have retained some of the weathered white look.

 

[clive hayward]

Excellent project, I too like the old Triang locos, reminds me of my childhood. I would go for a secondhand body though, even one of the "non-BR" blue ones as Triang never did get the shade right!

Regards

Clive

 

[TheBufoon]

Thanks for the feedback.
The paint removal was a success, I'm now working on repairing the body. The whole point of this project is to spend cash as little as I can, with the optimal outcome.

This may upset some people, but this loco is going to be re-painted with the colours of my favorite heavy haulage company, Sunter Bros.

I have "Artistic License", so I can do as I wish !

 

[SRman]

That body is repairable with a little work with plasticard and filler. While you are at it, it would be worthwhile to remove the moulded on handrails and insert wire replacements.

I have repaired Triang/Hornby bodies like that before; a Pannier tank which had a large triangular chunk out of the rear bunker and buffer beam, and a Standard 3MT tank with similar damage plys a bit of the front buffer beam missing as well. Just use lots of solvent to fuse the plastic replacement bits in place and allow plenty of setting time before filling, filing and painting.

Of course, you could buy a complete replacement body from the likes of Modelspares or East Kent Models - they aren't all that expensive. On the other hand, there is more of a sense of achievement if you can do it all yourself (like you, I like the challenge) - and you save having to oil the hinges on your wallet!!!

If you were prepared to spend a little extra, you could also get some brass extras, such as the roof fan grille and fan, which would also allow you to correct the position of the fan - something Triang-Hornby got wrong originally as it should be off centre. While the Heljan Hymek is better, the Triang/Hornby one was never a bad model to start with. I have one which is in the process of being detailed with brass fan, separate handrails, etc. and I twin-motored it and through wired all the pick-ups. It runs very smoothly and will pull anything I put behind it (not quite as smooth or quiet as the Heljan mech but will still crawl along reliably if asked to do so), and it looks quite alright parked right next to the Heljan Hymek.

 

[madon37s]

QUOTE (TheBufoon @ 27 Mar 2009, 22:04) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>so I can do as I wish !

You most certainly can my friend, Go for it!

Have you got a picture of a real loco in "Sunter Bros" as I have never heard of them. Would like to see the livery.

Kind regards

Paul

 

[upnick]

Hi

A good alternative to caustic soda is fairy powerspray of course you dont have to use gloves and its cheap enough to strip several bodies with a bottle, place the body in a plastic bag spray well and seal the bag leave overnight ....... it should look like a gel around the body and not foamy at all ......... use an old toothbrush all over the body then rinse under the tap the paint should fall off easily though at times a second application may be needed.

Just a thought for the next body .......

The body is repairable look forward to the Sunter scheme ...........

 

[TheBufoon]

QUOTE (madon37s @ 28 Mar 2009, 08:42) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>You most certainly can my friend, Go for it!

Have you got a picture of a real loco in "Sunter Bros" as I have never heard of them. Would like to see the livery.

Kind regards

Paul

Thanks for the advise on detailing & repairing.

To my knowledge Sunter Bros never had any Locos. The company merged with Wynn's in the late 70's then became Ecconfreight. Now the company is GCS Johnson.

I'm reviving the Sunter Bros company !

 

[7113]

I have to say I think the Sunter livery will actually suit the Hymek shape - I look forward to the finished result.

Regards

 

[TheBufoon]

QUOTE (TheBufoon @ 28 Mar 2009, 12:06) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>Thanks for the advise on detailing & repairing.

To my knowledge Sunter Bros never had any Locos. The company merged with Wynn's in the late 70's then became Ecconfreight. Now the company is GCS Johnson.

I got it wrong, Sunters didn't become GCS Johnson, the fleet was sold off, ALE got some of the vehicles.

 

[TheBufoon]

Hi all, I have been reading all of your advise and got hold of two more Hymek's. I'm going to use a better body & thank's to SRman I'm going to make a twin motor & wire the pickups, maybee even pop a decoder in there.

Photos to follow.

 

[TheBufoon]

I have started work this evening on the twin motor, I'm using two more Hymek's, increasing the cost to £23.00, never mind ! At least I have a better condition Bodyshell.

The process of cutting out the best of the chassis has gone very well, using a Rotary drill & a craft knife.

Final checks before mixing 5min expoy.......

Need a bit more trimming here...............

Now the hard part ! Before add the decoder I will get both the motors working in the same direction, hard wiring seems to make sence.

 

[SRman]

Snap!!

Sorry it has taken so long to get a reasonable picture up. It looks like you have done very much thesame as i have. My cut was made in the middle of the fuel tanks because I wanted to allow for more strengthening material, but I knew the join would be much harder to disguise. From your pics it looks like you have done a much neater job than I managed.

I still have to add the separate wire handrails and brass turned horns too - neither of these things are in my pic.

Keep going, you're doing a good job there - nad you have overtaken me, I think!!

One other thing, though. Be careful what decoder you use, as these motors can have a fairly heavy current draw.

 

[TheBufoon]

Thanks SRman. I was going to use a Hornby R8249, as this is the only spare decoder I have, would this be suitable ?

How do I find out which one to use ?

Thanks.

 

[SRman]

I would definitely NOT use the Hornby one, as they are rated at only 0.5 amp continuous.

If you are using a cheapy decoder, Bachmann's one might be a better bet as it is a cut-down ESU rated at 1.0 amp continuous, with a higher rating for short bursts.

Better still, if your budget can stretch to it, one of the higher rated Lenz or TCS decoders would be the go. TCS have the advantage of their "goof-proof" warranty, which means that if you blow it up within a year of purchase, they (or the retailer) will replace it free of charge, whether or not it was your fault. The T1 with two functions is rated at 1.3 amps continuous, 2.0 amps overload.

The more recent Hornby decoders (like the R8249) do give quite smooth control in Hornby's own newer steam locomotives, so I'm not being anti-Hornby here, just practical!

 

[TheBufoon]

I have been researching Decoders, thanks SRman, the TCS T1 looks like the best bet for the money.

http://www.bromsgrovemodels.co.uk/pd-15466...p;categoryId=91

It will have to wait a while though !

Meanwhile I can get on with the re-spray, pics to follow.

 

[teleman]

You do need a 1 amp decoder as those motors can draw a lot of power when stalled

A vid i did for somewere else a while back

 

[TheBufoon]

The project has been shelved for a while............................waiting for the right decoder to come my way !