[Boslandew]

I am returning to modelling after some fifteen years and there's no doubt there have been a lot of changes. I have two queries I would be obliged if someone could help me with.

When I last modelled, track and wheel cleaning was done either with a track rubber or a cloth with white spirit on it and I am wondering if there have been any advances there?

I have just bought my first DCC loco, a Roco 'Ludmilla (DR233) I am enjoying learning to operate it (despite a manual that might as well be written in Swahili) but am wondering if there is a recommended way of cleaning the wheels of a DCC loco?

Any assistance would be appreciated.

 

[Julian2011]

The dirt from 15 years ago would much match the modern stuff, so similar means to clean it would be logical. That said, I see wide use of Isopropanol, rather than white spirit and it's also very reasonably priced from many outlets.

I have used cotton buds, which seem able to get at the whole of the tyre and the rim. I have also used the same cotton buds [very wet] whilst running locos on a rolling road, which works very well for the driven wheels and is very simple. None driven can be rotated easily anyway.

I have also cleaned wheels on the track rails, by soaking a kitchen towel in Isopropanol and placing it on top of the rails, then simply drive the loco onto the soaking towel. Once the driven wheels are on the towel, the loco is lightly restrained so the wheels spin on the paper, allowing some slight movement to keep the wheels on clean wet paper. Following the success of this idea, I bought one of the Gaugemaster Roto Wheel Cleaners, which is set up for the same principle, but easier and more efficient to use. Roto Wheel Cleaner^™ - HO Scale - Woodland Scenics I can't vouch for it yet as it is a new acquisition and remains new in the box, although that situation can't last long, as my locos are due a clean.

Julian

 

[Boslandew]

Many thanks. The dirt is indeed the same! However so much else has changed I thought it worth enquiring.Thanks for the tip about isoproponol

My query about wheel cleaning was to see if there is any difference between a DC loco and a DCC loco. The Roto Wheel cleaner sounds like a good deal, I'd be interested to hear how well it works.

Now, back to the challenge of soldering!!!

 

[kristopher1805]

Well whilst Julian is correct I go a little further.

I have a static track which I also use for setting DCC codes (using a decoder tester over on the left) and I run locos against a wooden upright and then as it runs use cotton buds to clean the wheels, you must also clean the inside of the flanges as the pick ups rub against them and dirty them up, I have had so many locos some supposedly new come with seriously dirty wheels it takes 4 or 5 go's at ti. to get them truly clean. (my view bought, run till they stop then sold on to the next mug aka ME)

I did use Track Magic but found this coated the rails and everything then slipped, it was a real 'ugger to get it cleaned away so ceased that which was a shame it certainly got wheels, track anything you like clean but it was the slipping that spoiled it.

So having tried just about every method such as the device that the train sits on, but this lost electrical conductivity and anyway why pay money when you can do it for free.

My simple budget but effective system gets the treatment, as to cleaning fluid well I use something a bit brutal but it works, it can if the loco is dirty use a cotton bud per wheel but mine rarely get that bad and one cotton bud per side is normal

http://imgur.com/lgRmlNn

 

[Boslandew]

Many thanks for your thoughts. The idea of running a loco against a post is not one I've heard of before. I had forgotten the effects of dirt. I finished track laying and soldering wire connections and was surprised how dirty the track was already.

I'm busy wiring up points at the moment and will have to have a major track and wheel cleaning session after that using some of the tips you have been kind enough to offer.

 

[34C]

I am returning to modelling after some fifteen years...

... I finished track laying and soldering wire connections and was surprised how dirty the track was already...

Is practically everything in track and stock newly purchased as a result of your return to model railway?

If so, a consistent effect I have seen every time new track or new stock is introduced, is that dirt comes with; which I suspect is mainly residues from the manufacturing processes on the new items. I run new stock on a dedicated circuit for about a couple of hours with 'wipe ups' on the rails until the dirt deposit is minimal. New track, wipe with IPA before laying.

The good news. Current metal tyred wheels (RTR and kit) and nickel silver track, perform more cleanly with plenty of operation.

 

[Boslandew]

Thats interesting. I had assumed it was from the mess I had made drilling various holes and some early very clumsy soldering (and natural untidiness!!) All my track, points and one loco are new. I have one old loco (presently being converted to DCC) and various rolling stock. My layout is end to end so no circuit but I have run my new loco up and down at full tilt for long periods.

At present the layout is in bits as I'm installing the points. I can't work underneath anymore so its designed so that I can stand the sections on edge and work sitting down. Once its back together and I've given the track a good clean I shall be interested to see how my new loco, DCC, runs compared to what I can remember of the old DC layout. Its a great hobby (now that I've learnt how to solder)

 

[34C]

...At present the layout is in bits as I'm installing the points. I can't work underneath anymore so its designed so that I can stand the sections on edge and work sitting down...

And that's a solid tip, nothing like being able to sit down comfortably at this task, and not have solder dripping down on you.

Also, if planning to paint the track sides a 'rust plus filth' shade appropriate to your location, while plain track is best done once laid, points are far easier to deal with before they are attached to the trackbase as you have free access at all angles.

 

[Boslandew]

Yes, I've just re-built my point selection panel this morning, largely sitting down!!

I made the mistake of painting track the other way round. I carefully painted the sides of the track before laying it and then tried to paint the points in situ. Oh well, you live and learn.

One other tip from a beginner for other beginners. I've used Scotchlok fasteners for the first time and am very impressed. However it took me a while to realise that its much easier to close them with the plastic cover 'open' sooner than trying to squeeze the metal contact with the plastic cover as well.