Complete lack of instruction on how to wire Peco code 55 frogs.

Hi James,

Yes I had exactly the same problem until Richard Johnson came to my rescue. Not sure how you intend to control your points but I'm attaching a couple of wiring diagrams, which, although they are for DCC might help. The first is for a simple stud & probe type of control and the second is an "all bells and whistles" option using Richard's famous Masterswitches, DPDT switches and bi-colour LEDs to indicate 'Open' and 'Closed' routes.

Please note that the order of the PM1 connection tags is not correct in Option 1 but is correct in Option 2.

Hope they help.

Sorry to disagree Bob but cutting the wire you are referring to serves no useful purpose as it does not separate the frog from the rest of the point. This link wire merely connects the frog rails to the frog itself. Cutting this wire is actually detrimental to the electrical continuity of the point. On Peco Code 100 points there is a link wire which, when cut, will separate the frog from the rest of the point, hence my earlier statement that the Peco Code 55 points do not have the link wire referred to in the referenced instructions.

There have been many postings on this forum regarding the wiring of electrofrog points and the general consensus is that the method which gives the optimum benefits is to cut the rails in the position I have shown in order to completely separate the frog from the rest of the point and then bond the closure rails to the stock rails as I have shown. The frog is then controlled independantly of the stock rails. It is not necessary to cut the link wire underneath the point.

See the following link

http://www.wiringfordcc.com/switches_peco.htm

My thanks to both of you.

Expat - thank you for the helpful diagrams, I'm afraid I'm in need of even more simplistic help though. My points have this arrangement at the frog...



...and I don't understand what to do with the actual wiring. Bob's pictures seem to be pretty close to the arrangement of my own points, if I use that arrangement is it going to work?

I control the points with PM1 motors connected to a Gaugemaster PCU.

Trevor,

I only just looked at the second of your diagrams and so didn't see the little picture of the point at the bottom. That's much clearer now thank you.

The picture of the point I posted is a code 55 medium radius point - my shorts and longs for some reason have a different looking arrangement - that shown in Bob's instructions.

Are you saying I should leave all the wires on the underside of the turnout alone? That suits me fine, they're damn hard to do anything with without melting or cutting plastic! It looks to me as if the cut happen further back than these wires.

Can I solder my 'frog wire' (the one from the switch...) to this wire? If not, where does it go?

I need to get a much smaller cutting blade for my mini drill as well. First attempt at slicing through I almost chopped the point in two!

Bob - I tried your method but couldn't detach the 'link' wire from one of its set of contacts without damaging the point.

I think I'm finally getting my head around this - I apologise if you're sitting thinking 'he really should have got this by now'!

Sol, thank you very much - I had actually just come across the topmost of your links as I was experimenting and it's help me get there, phew!

Dumb dumb here wasn't using the D and E contacts on the point motors for anything - although I was wondering what they were for all along, I assumed it was some high tech DCC thing. As soon as I figured out how to put those in the equation, all is well.

Right, now to convert 20 or so points on the layout.

I think as I do my first one I shall document it and put it somewhere as 'a completely electronically challenged idiot's guide to wiring live frog code 55 points'.

QUOTE (N Gauge James @ 9 Nov 2008, 23:23) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>Can I solder my 'frog wire' (the one from the switch...) to this wire? If not, where does it go?

Hi James.

Yes that's exactly what I do. If you lift the wire away from the point a little you should be able to solder a connection to it without damaging the sleepers etc. This then becomes the connection to the frog which goes to terminal F on the Seep PM1 point motor.

QUOTE I need to get a much smaller cutting blade for my mini drill as well. First attempt at slicing through I almost chopped the point in two!

The best thing to use is a small circular saw blade in a Dremel. Have a look on the Expo Tools web site for them. They are on page 21 of the Miniature Power Tools section. Expo do warn that these saw blades are for use only on wood and plastic and should NEVER be used on metals, However, in my experience they can, with care, be used to cut Code 55 rails and they give a very fine cut through the rail which is ideal for N Gauge.

A WORD OF WARNING HOWEVER
Remember to wear safety goggles and gloves when cutting as blades can shatter and the consequences could be severe.