Hi Andy
You have it all to do, but welcome to the forum, hope you enjoy and participate.
Sorry you have managed to confuse me about your loft, I assume they are Pink trusses and you fit the boards in the truss area, anyway lets settle some issues
The figure of 8 idea means gradients, you HAVE to in OO climb a minimum of 80mm (Hornby bridges) to clear and that means a gradient both up and down and that causes all sorts of issues so a climb of 1 in 33 means a length of 2.6 metres for the gradient and the transitional curves so you need about 2.9 metres or about 10 feet. so your railway will be dominated by these, it is simpler to build a round on the flat, if no gradient then you have cross over on the flat and thats a pain. A simple round is better but you can with flexi track have some gentle curves.
Better build a higher level at the back if you wish, what I have done with a 4 track main line on the lower level, a two track upper level and a twin track uppy downy so I get a lot of running.
Next what track, best go all new code 75 electrofrog Peco with Streamline points - unless you have old Wrenn wagons as I do.
This gets expensive so start simply and leave room for expansion.
As to your old stuff depends upon how old and whether its worth bothering with, locos less than 10 years old are pretty good, older not so much.
Old track what is it? if code 100 Hornby/Peco standard stuff then OK for sidings and the like. - tell us what it is?
What are your locos
What is your budget
Thats the worst of it, if you are in a hurry then its not cheap, take your time, work out what you want to do and lay decent track as the primary job, you have a spare amount of space so start modestly but really work out what you want so its cheaper later. I did not and am stuck with code 100 insulfrog, I have switched out the standard train set points (Set track) but have few electrofrog points, it all works very well however.
Work out too how wide a curve you can arrange, avoid R1 (371mm) then R2 (438mm) this is the set track point radius, R3 505mm and then R4 571 mm so then at every 67mm but pre set curves come only as R4 max and for tighter bends it is best to go R3/R4 but I also use say R4 then make R5 from flexi.
You have to consider the scene, are you going for rural, branches, main lines, docks, factories,
Period when - GWR in 1948, BR 1959, blue is bland 1986, modern latest stuff, so then you build you railway to suit, once this is sorted you:-
Plan - make your plans
As you build test test test
So take pics and post on here, we will help as we have done all this and more ourselves, and made the usual mistakes, & my advice is;
IF IN DOUBT ASK ! (then consider what suits we as we have more ideas than we have members)
You have it all to do, but welcome to the forum, hope you enjoy and participate.
Sorry you have managed to confuse me about your loft, I assume they are Pink trusses and you fit the boards in the truss area, anyway lets settle some issues
The figure of 8 idea means gradients, you HAVE to in OO climb a minimum of 80mm (Hornby bridges) to clear and that means a gradient both up and down and that causes all sorts of issues so a climb of 1 in 33 means a length of 2.6 metres for the gradient and the transitional curves so you need about 2.9 metres or about 10 feet. so your railway will be dominated by these, it is simpler to build a round on the flat, if no gradient then you have cross over on the flat and thats a pain. A simple round is better but you can with flexi track have some gentle curves.
Better build a higher level at the back if you wish, what I have done with a 4 track main line on the lower level, a two track upper level and a twin track uppy downy so I get a lot of running.
Next what track, best go all new code 75 electrofrog Peco with Streamline points - unless you have old Wrenn wagons as I do.
This gets expensive so start simply and leave room for expansion.
As to your old stuff depends upon how old and whether its worth bothering with, locos less than 10 years old are pretty good, older not so much.
Old track what is it? if code 100 Hornby/Peco standard stuff then OK for sidings and the like. - tell us what it is?
What are your locos
What is your budget
Thats the worst of it, if you are in a hurry then its not cheap, take your time, work out what you want to do and lay decent track as the primary job, you have a spare amount of space so start modestly but really work out what you want so its cheaper later. I did not and am stuck with code 100 insulfrog, I have switched out the standard train set points (Set track) but have few electrofrog points, it all works very well however.
Work out too how wide a curve you can arrange, avoid R1 (371mm) then R2 (438mm) this is the set track point radius, R3 505mm and then R4 571 mm so then at every 67mm but pre set curves come only as R4 max and for tighter bends it is best to go R3/R4 but I also use say R4 then make R5 from flexi.
You have to consider the scene, are you going for rural, branches, main lines, docks, factories,
Period when - GWR in 1948, BR 1959, blue is bland 1986, modern latest stuff, so then you build you railway to suit, once this is sorted you:-
Plan - make your plans
As you build test test test
So take pics and post on here, we will help as we have done all this and more ourselves, and made the usual mistakes, & my advice is;
IF IN DOUBT ASK ! (then consider what suits we as we have more ideas than we have members)
