Model Railway Forum banner
1 - 10 of 10 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
17 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Has anyone tried to convert Code 100 Crossings to a live frog?

I unfortunately chose code 100, before I realised I could use code 75, and I am now beyond the point of no return.

The dead frogs on the crossings are driving me bats, as there is no chance of slow movement using smaller loco's, as they just stop.

I was wondering how easy it might be to replace the plastic extend the rails, and turn them into live frogs.

Has anyone tried it?

Thanks

Mark
 

·
Administrator
Joined
·
9,844 Posts
I haven't tried it but you might find it easier to buy a code 75 crossing and sit it on 250 thou plasticard to get the match up the rail heights. You have to isolate all the end rails anyway. I think the Peco converter fishplates would work best as they are designed for the job but you might get either type of insulating joiner to work instead.

Don't forget that you need to switch the power to the crossings. Here's a diagram showing how and why. I use the same switch as the point which switches the route to the crossing.



David
 

·
In depth idiot
Joined
·
7,678 Posts
QUOTE (MarkyGWR @ 21 Aug 2008, 22:07) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>Has anyone tried to convert Code 100 Crossings to a live frog? .. I was wondering how easy it might be to replace the plastic extend the rails, and turn them into live frogs Has anyone tried it?
Mark,

Not on crossings, but I have converted old large rad points to live crossing for use in storage sidings. Note that this was simply to upgrade cheaply to working live crossing points, not win a beauty contest. Take a note of the crossing angle, because you will be shaping rail to match the profile of the crossing nose. Break the spot welded wire off the back of the short rails after the crossing. Pull the short rails out - carefully, to preserve the chairs - you can reuse these rail pieces if you are not concerned about maintaining the system geometry. Use a burr cutter to remove the plastic crossing nose, and cut down into the point base to provide clearance for the rail foot. Shape rail pieces to form an all metal crossing, install rail in point base, check fit, rail level, running. When satisfied, solder the rails together behind the crossing, attempt to keep solder off the running surface. Solder a feed wire to the new crossing from the underside. Use a quick setting epoxy to bond in the rail, and fill in the gaps in the point base at the crossing. Wire point exactly as live crossing types, and you are done. I see no reason why this technique will not work on a diamond crossing
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,150 Posts
QUOTE (dwb @ 21 Aug 2008, 22:16) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>I haven't tried it but you might find it easier to buy a code 75 crossing and sit it on 250 thou plasticard to get the match up the rail heights. You have to isolate all the end rails anyway. I think the Peco converter fishplates would work best as they are designed for the job but you might get either type of insulating joiner to work instead.

Don't forget that you need to switch the power to the crossings. Here's a diagram showing how and why. I use the same switch as the point which switches the route to the crossing.



David

Hi David.
Can I ask what kind of switch do you use? I have this junction in which I want to replace the code 100 Insul frog crossing with a code 75 electrofrog crossing. I'm trying to work out how to change the polarity of the frogs.Theres a picture of the crossing here.

http://s285.photobucket.com/albums/ll68/to...t=2crossing.jpg
 

·
Just another modeller
Joined
·
9,983 Posts
QUOTE (TonyDaly @ 22 Aug 2008, 06:17) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>Hi David.
Can I ask what kind of switch do you use? I have this junction in which I want to replace the code 100 Insul frog crossing with a code 75 electrofrog crossing. I'm trying to work out how to change the polarity of the frogs.Theres a picture of the crossing here.

http://s285.photobucket.com/albums/ll68/to...t=2crossing.jpg

***If you sue a MASTERswitch Plus on each of those points, it can control all the frog changeovers for both point and diamonds simultaneously - each MS Plus has FOUR sets of changeover contacts + LED control for panel lights - they can be controlled by either PB switches or standard DPDT switches - momentary switching isn't required with MS. (MS itself provides the "pulse" to the point motor)

Richard
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,150 Posts
QUOTE (Richard Johnson @ 22 Aug 2008, 03:53) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>***If you sue a MASTERswitch Plus on each of those points, it can control all the frog changeovers for both point and diamonds simultaneously - each MS Plus has FOUR sets of changeover contacts + LED control for panel lights - they can be controlled by either PB switches or standard DPDT switches - momentary switching isn't required with MS. (MS itself provides the "pulse" to the point motor)

Richard

Hi Richard.
I thought the MASTERswitch might do the job & I guessed that you might spot this post. You were my next port of call once I had heard what way David was doing it. I am wiring and testing my layout track at the moment ,that is how I discovered that I really don't like the Code 100 crossings. Strange but the Double slip I have presents no such problems. Any chance of a diagram as I really haven't a clue how to wire the code 75 crossing with the MASTERswitch in conjunction with the associated points. I presume that you have looked at my picture of the junction. I have another of these junctions on the other side of the layout.
Thanks Richard.
 

·
Just another modeller
Joined
·
9,983 Posts
QUOTE (TonyDaly @ 22 Aug 2008, 16:53) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>Hi Richard.
I thought the MASTERswitch might do the job & I guessed that you might spot this post. You were my next port of call once I had heard what way David was doing it. I am wiring and testing my layout track at the moment ,that is how I discovered that I really don't like the Code 100 crossings. Strange but the Double slip I have presents no such problems. Any chance of a diagram as I really haven't a clue how to wire the code 75 crossing with the MASTERswitch in conjunction with the associated points. I presume that you have looked at my picture of the junction. I have another of these junctions on the other side of the layout.
Thanks Richard.

***There are 16 pages of info and diagrammes with the MS PLUS - showing everything up to a full scissors crossover, so it'll be clear for you.... if not, I can most certainly send you a special drawing, but its lots of work so if I may, I'll wait until I'm sure its needed!

Richard
 

·
Administrator
Joined
·
9,844 Posts
QUOTE Hi David.
Can I ask what kind of switch do you use? I have this junction in which I want to replace the code 100 Insul frog crossing with a code 75 electrofrog crossing

I use Fulgurex motors for my points. They have two auxiliary SPDT microswitches. I use one to change the frog and one for feedback to the control panel. If that's still not enough, you can buy additional SPDT microswitches to fit above the current pair for even more switch options.

David
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,150 Posts
QUOTE (Richard Johnson @ 22 Aug 2008, 15:34) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>***There are 16 pages of info and diagrammes with the MS PLUS - showing everything up to a full scissors crossover, so it'll be clear for you.... if not, I can most certainly send you a special drawing, but its lots of work so if I may, I'll wait until I'm sure its needed!

Richard

Thanks Richard.
Order placed with Bromsgrove.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
17 Posts
Discussion Starter · #10 ·
34C thanks for the info, I think that I will give it a go.

Apologies for not responding earlier, but my graphics card decided to pack up.

Regards

Mark
 
1 - 10 of 10 Posts
Top