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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Changing all my rolling stock and most of my Loco's couplers to Kadees, No 18 & 19.

Advantages:

Real coupling at very low speeds during shunting. No hassel of banging the loco to coach so to couple.
Easy to separate coaches/wagons, simply lift up from track.
Uncoupling with delayed Kadee magnets mounted on rails is unbelivable.

However, haven't decided yet of what to do with passenger coaches. Fleischmann Profi couplers seems to have an edge in the sense of prototypical close coupling. Here you can see the difference in gap.

With Flm Profi couplers:



With No. 18 Kadees



Should I stick with profi's?

baykal
 

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I would agree with John - stick to the Profi's for the coaching stock (with KD's on the ends or the rakes)as generally they don't get remarshalled as much as freight stock.

The Profi does give a very close coupling - more so when you use them with Roco stock - it looks like the FLM pocket stands slightly further away from the coach/wagon - often when I fit Profi's to Roco stock I have to not quite push the coupling fully home (they fit very tightly) to allow a tiny gap.

I've found that KD's are not very forgiving on less than perfect track.
 

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I have to agree with both John and Brian,

Stick to the profis on coaching stock and any other permanantly coupled sets.

Regards
 

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[quote name='BRITHO' date='3 Apr 2008, 13:18' post='50617']
I have to agree with both John and Brian,

Stick to the profis on coaching stock and any other permanantly coupled sets.

Regards
Hi

What is the opinion on couplings for goods wagons? In my very limited experience FLM profi couplings don't always work that well on the straight and never on a bend. However being new to the hobby all my FLM stock is fitted with profi except two older goods wagons bought at a sale. These are shown as made in Western Germany and have hook type couplings which reminded me of Triang. Can I change these for profi or something else? They have a slot similar to he modern stock.


Thanks in anticipation

S & D
 

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Hi

Just a quick couple of questions on the profis, can you lift out lets say the middle coach in a rake like you can with kadees? How do the go on Hornby/Bachmann some with NEM pockets, I understand for those without NEM I will have to build mounting brackets.

Thanks

martin
 

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QUOTE (Martin71 @ 3 Apr 2008, 15:23) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>Just a quick couple of questions on the profis, can you lift out lets say the middle coach in a rake like you can with kadees? How do the go on Hornby/Bachmann some with NEM pockets, I understand for those without NEM I will have to build mounting brackets.

In answer to the first question, yes you can lift a coach straight out of the middle of a rake without any problems.

They should clip straight into the NEM pocket on modern Hornby and Bachmann stock, although I do seem to recall there was an issue with the pocket height on the Bachmann mk1's. Older stock will, as you say, need pockets fitted. Conversion kits are available from both Fleischmann and Roco.

Hope this is of assistance.

Regards
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Thanks guys,

Profi's stays on the passenger coaches then. Shall use kadees only on ends.

QUOTE (dbclass50 @ 3 Apr 2008, 13:14) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>I've found that KD's are not very forgiving on less than perfect track.

Meaning very sensitive on how you lay track? Suddenly my tummy aches!

By the way, just to show how neat the kadees work I made a film on it. It also demonstrates how the delayed mechanism works. Feel free to watch if interested. ( Sorry abt quality but at least shows you the principle.)
The leading actor is the ROCO V100 shunter.


Baykal
 

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QUOTE (BRITHO @ 3 Apr 2008, 16:53) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>Older stock will, as you say, need pockets fitted.

Actually not 100% correct - older FLM coaches & wagons can be fitted with Profi's - two types available, slot fixing & pin fixing, although you don't get close coupling with them they do close the gap quite a bit !
 

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Hi
On the topic of older FRLM stock. I have two much older wagons, I guess, as stamped "Made in Western Germany". These have metal couplings. How do I get the existing couplings out.? They are set in a pocket and the coupling appears to have a pin which locks in a small hole in the pocket. I have pushed on the pin and gently pulled on the coupling at the same time with no result. Is this the correct method?


Continuing the earlier discussion I only have stock with profi couplings I have found coupling unpredictable on straights and impossible on bends.

Many thanks

S & D
 

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Some of the even older "Made in Western Germany" have the couplings fixed with a small rivet !

If the have the slot fixing type with the pin (cat #6250) hold the wagon upright with the coupling you wish to remove at the top (this prevents the centreing spring from falling out). To remove the pin gently pull it with a pair of small pliars, the coupling should then pull out. Push the replacement (cat #6516) coupling in & refit the pin.

There are some pictorial instructions in the FLM catalogue - if you don't have one handy send me a PM & I'll scan it for you.

The Profi's can be a little hit & miss, but as we don't do any shunting on SL they are about the best for us.

Hope this helps.
 

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Thanks for the tips. I will have a go later on. How the world of model rail has changed since the days of Triang/Hornby in the sixites. No chasing wagons to couple up, but uncoupling was fun if I remember. I watched the video of the shunting exercise. The sound effects are certainly impressive, I bet the price is as well. I must start saving.

Thanks again.
 

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Hi Brian

I'm at a loss with the FLM wagon. It appears to have a pin holding the coupling in the pocket, the pin being inserted on the top so the only way I can see to access it is by swinging the bogie through 90 degrees, something it does not want to do. Any suggestions.


Many thanks

S & D
 

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It seems that this could be the 6521 type that it held in place with a tinplate cover - you have to bend the tabs to remove it. Bogie wagons can be a pain to do, but they can be done. Send me your email in a PM & I'll scan the catalogue over the weekend for you so that we are certain we are talking about the same thing.
 

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Hi

Thanks for the offfer of help, Your comment reminded me that I had a catalogue somewhere and have found it. The closest match is 6512 but without the button on the downward arm. It suggests that the replacemnet is 6517, would you agree?

Best wishes

S & D
 

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QUOTE (S&D @ 5 Apr 2008, 10:52) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>The closest match is 6512 but without the button on the downward arm. It suggests that the replacemnet is 6517, would you agree?

Cannot find a 6512, even going back through the archives, but I can find a 6521 - if that's the one you have then the 6517 is the one you need.

If stuck for them drop me a PM.

Tip - if you convert the older wagons & alternate them with those with close coupling mech's the gap closes quite a lot.
 

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Hi

Sorry my mistake/typo.
I bet 6517s are not stock items and do you think Iwill need to replace the metal cover on the pocket, that's if I can get one?

Many thanks for your advice

S & D
 

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QUOTE (S&D @ 6 Apr 2008, 09:11) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>Hi

Sorry my mistake/typo.
I bet 6517s are not stock items and do you think Iwill need to replace the metal cover on the pocket, that's if I can get one?

Many thanks for your advice

S & D

They are with us - only got about 15 at the moment though (on back order) - send me a PM with qty required & your address (*I'll look up the price).

I doubt if the metal cover is still available - we may have a scrap wagon somewhere though - I ll have a look later on today.
 

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Have have a slightly different dilemma, a Brawa Kof which you need to glue the couplers to and a rake of Trix rolling road which has a different style of socket/connector. Somebody suggested an intermediate wagon for the Kof although I'd rather have it running on its own. I could add a coach to the rolling road with different couplings each end, but then I'd have the same problem when the train changes direction.

Any thoughts/solutions? Currently strongly considering moving to the F profi system.

thanks
 

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Hi Simon,

Would a Kof have shunted a rolling road? I would have thought a class 365 or larger would have done the shunting.

Personally I have found that it is best to stick to one sort of coupler for all stock. That being said, I use all sorts on my layout, but I don't do much shunting and most of my stock runs in pretty fixed rakes with only the baggage cars getting swapped at the ends.

John
 
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