Couplers

I would use the profi couplers.

The closer the gap the better.

John

I would agree with John - stick to the Profi's for the coaching stock (with KD's on the ends or the rakes)as generally they don't get remarshalled as much as freight stock.

The Profi does give a very close coupling - more so when you use them with Roco stock - it looks like the FLM pocket stands slightly further away from the coach/wagon - often when I fit Profi's to Roco stock I have to not quite push the coupling fully home (they fit very tightly) to allow a tiny gap.

I've found that KD's are not very forgiving on less than perfect track.

I have to agree with both John and Brian,

Stick to the profis on coaching stock and any other permanantly coupled sets.

Regards

Hi

Just a quick couple of questions on the profis, can you lift out lets say the middle coach in a rake like you can with kadees? How do the go on Hornby/Bachmann some with NEM pockets, I understand for those without NEM I will have to build mounting brackets.

Thanks

martin

QUOTE (Martin71 @ 3 Apr 2008, 15:23) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>Just a quick couple of questions on the profis, can you lift out lets say the middle coach in a rake like you can with kadees? How do the go on Hornby/Bachmann some with NEM pockets, I understand for those without NEM I will have to build mounting brackets.

In answer to the first question, yes you can lift a coach straight out of the middle of a rake without any problems.

They should clip straight into the NEM pocket on modern Hornby and Bachmann stock, although I do seem to recall there was an issue with the pocket height on the Bachmann mk1's. Older stock will, as you say, need pockets fitted. Conversion kits are available from both Fleischmann and Roco.

Hope this is of assistance.

Regards

QUOTE (BRITHO @ 3 Apr 2008, 16:53) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>Older stock will, as you say, need pockets fitted.

Actually not 100% correct - older FLM coaches & wagons can be fitted with Profi's - two types available, slot fixing & pin fixing, although you don't get close coupling with them they do close the gap quite a bit !

Some of the even older "Made in Western Germany" have the couplings fixed with a small rivet !

If the have the slot fixing type with the pin (cat #6250) hold the wagon upright with the coupling you wish to remove at the top (this prevents the centreing spring from falling out). To remove the pin gently pull it with a pair of small pliars, the coupling should then pull out. Push the replacement (cat #6516) coupling in & refit the pin.

There are some pictorial instructions in the FLM catalogue - if you don't have one handy send me a PM & I'll scan it for you.

The Profi's can be a little hit & miss, but as we don't do any shunting on SL they are about the best for us.

Hope this helps.

It seems that this could be the 6521 type that it held in place with a tinplate cover - you have to bend the tabs to remove it. Bogie wagons can be a pain to do, but they can be done. Send me your email in a PM & I'll scan the catalogue over the weekend for you so that we are certain we are talking about the same thing.

Hi

Thanks for the offfer of help, Your comment reminded me that I had a catalogue somewhere and have found it. The closest match is 6512 but without the button on the downward arm. It suggests that the replacemnet is 6517, would you agree?

Best wishes

S & D

QUOTE (S&D @ 5 Apr 2008, 10:52) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>The closest match is 6512 but without the button on the downward arm. It suggests that the replacemnet is 6517, would you agree?

Cannot find a 6512, even going back through the archives, but I can find a 6521 - if that's the one you have then the 6517 is the one you need.

If stuck for them drop me a PM.

Tip - if you convert the older wagons & alternate them with those with close coupling mech's the gap closes quite a lot.

Have have a slightly different dilemma, a Brawa Kof which you need to glue the couplers to and a rake of Trix rolling road which has a different style of socket/connector. Somebody suggested an intermediate wagon for the Kof although I'd rather have it running on its own. I could add a coach to the rolling road with different couplings each end, but then I'd have the same problem when the train changes direction.

Any thoughts/solutions? Currently strongly considering moving to the F profi system.

thanks

Hi Simon,

Would a Kof have shunted a rolling road? I would have thought a class 365 or larger would have done the shunting.

Personally I have found that it is best to stick to one sort of coupler for all stock. That being said, I use all sorts on my layout, but I don't do much shunting and most of my stock runs in pretty fixed rakes with only the baggage cars getting swapped at the ends.

John