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Hi Guys,

Following on from another thread does anyone have any experience in fitting carriage lighting to Dapol N Gauge carriages. I have purchased some of Richard Johnsons 'flicker-free' lights to go into my GWR Collet carriages but cannot work out how to get power to them as the axles appear to be plastic. Richard has suggested replacing the wheels & axles but has no experience of doing this in N Gauge.

I've measured the existing wheels which appear to be 6.2 mm dia. and have found various patterns for this size in the Romford catalogue but can't seem to find the axles. I think it's the solid disc type I need plus axles and insulating bushes.

Does anyone know better ??

Cheers,

Expat
 

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QUOTE (Expat @ 25 Jun 2008, 23:38) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>Hi Guys,

Following on from another thread does anyone have any experience in fitting carriage lighting to Dapol N Gauge carriages. I have purchased some of Richard Johnsons 'flicker-free' lights to go into my GWR Collet carriages but cannot work out how to get power to them as the axles appear to be plastic. Richard has suggested replacing the wheels & axles but has no experience of doing this in N Gauge.

I've measured the existing wheels which appear to be 6.2 mm dia. and have found various patterns for this size in the Romford catalogue but can't seem to find the axles. I think it's the solid disc type I need plus axles and insulating bushes.

Does anyone know better ??

Cheers,

Expat

***Trevor. If Markits/Romford have them, you can usually order with either one or both wheels insulated. You may also need to specify axle length. Its worth phoning Mark Arscott, the owner, and taling it through - he's good to deal with and very helpful

Richard
DCCconcepts
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
QUOTE (Richard Johnson @ 26 Jun 2008, 08:19) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>***Trevor. If Markits/Romford have them, you can usually order with either one or both wheels insulated. You may also need to specify axle length. Its worth phoning Mark Arscott, the owner, and taling it through - he's good to deal with and very helpful

Richard
DCCconcepts

Hi Richard,

I've spoken to Mark Arscott and have hit a brick wall as nobody makes live axles for N Gauge. They are all plastic.

The only possible way I can think of getting power to the lights is to have a phosphor bronze contact strip actually wiping the rails. Mark seems to think this might work but I would appreciate any thoughts you might have on this idea ??

Trevor.
 

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QUOTE (Expat @ 27 Jun 2008, 23:09) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>Hi Richard,

I've spoken to Mark Arscott and have hit a brick wall as nobody makes live axles for N Gauge. They are all plastic.

The only possible way I can think of getting power to the lights is to have a phosphor bronze contact strip actually wiping the rails. Mark seems to think this might work but I would appreciate any thoughts you might have on this idea ??

Trevor.

***Metal axles definately exist as I've used them when a coach has been brought in for lighting to be fitted.... try Brian Considine AKA DB class 50 for the sizes of FLeischmann or Roco N scale coach wheels - they DO have metal axles!! also try KATO - they definately have live axles too as I've just done a full 6 coach set of them.....

Richard
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***Hi again trevor

Another thought that will also work OK for less cost.

get some brass tube that is a sliding fit on the axles... very close is OK, it doesn't need to be perfect.
cut to lengths slightly shorter than the back to back of the wheels
remove wheel, slip tube on, replace wheel
remove wheel blackening and stick tube to one wheel with conductive glue or conuctive epoxy
make up spring type wiper on the axle for lowest friction....

Richard
DCCconcepts
 

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QUOTE (Expat @ 27 Jun 2008, 16:09) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>I've spoken to Mark Arscott and have hit a brick wall as nobody makes live axles for N Gauge. They are all plastic.
Don't worry Trevor, it's not true! Every European N scale manufacturer has used metal wheels and axles on their coaches since the dawn of time, or at least as long as I've been in the hobby and I sure some of my coaches might be slightly older than me. (All my coaches waft like a Rolls Royce...)

What you need is eBay seller benno002 on eBay Germany (www.ebay.de) who accepts PayPal for example from the UK and might take cash in a registered letter which has been perfectly safe every time I've sent money to Europe in the past. Anyway, he supplies a wide range of wheelsets to fit virtually any coach or wagon in various quantites.

Here is a link to one of his auctions, from which you can get to his eBay shop. I hope this helps you!

http://cgi.ebay.de/50-N-Achsen-Radsaetze-M...1QQcmdZViewItem

I have to say that metal wheels are a very good idea, not just for lighting but also I suspect that they don't dirty the track like plastic wheels so the running of your models should be better. That's after they're picked up all the dirt on the tracks already, but once cleaned after this initial collection they should stay fairly clean. This is my experience, and it obviously depends upon if there are many traction tires, a dusty location for a model railway, oil or grease spills etc. etc. feng schwei of layout room!!
 

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QUOTE (goedel @ 28 Jun 2008, 02:34) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>Don't worry Trevor, it's not true! Every European N scale manufacturer has used metal wheels and axles on their coaches since the dawn of time, or at least as long as I've been in the hobby and I sure some of my coaches might be slightly older than me. (All my coaches waft like a Rolls Royce...)

What you need is eBay seller benno002 on eBay Germany (www.ebay.de) who accepts PayPal for example from the UK and might take cash in a registered letter which has been perfectly safe every time I've sent money to Europe in the past. Anyway, he supplies a wide range of wheelsets to fit virtually any coach or wagon in various quantites.

Here is a link to one of his auctions, from which you can get to his eBay shop. I hope this helps you!

http://cgi.ebay.de/50-N-Achsen-Radsaetze-M...1QQcmdZViewItem

I have to say that metal wheels are a very good idea, not just for lighting but also I suspect that they don't dirty the track like plastic wheels so the running of your models should be better. That's after they're picked up all the dirt on the tracks already, but once cleaned after this initial collection they should stay fairly clean. This is my experience, and it obviously depends upon if there are many traction tires, a dusty location for a model railway, oil or grease spills etc. etc. feng schwei of layout room!!

Hi Goedel,

Thanks for the information.

Just to correct a small misunderstanding though, the wheels on the Dapol carriages are metal. It's the axles that are plastic so I can't fit a spring type pickup to collect power for the carriage lights.

Cheers,

Trevor
 

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QUOTE (Expat @ 28 Jun 2008, 06:21) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>Just to correct a small misunderstanding though, the wheels on the Dapol carriages are metal. It's the axles that are plastic so I can't fit a spring type pickup to collect power for the carriage lights.
Hello Trevor, that's good to hear! Dapol is the sort of forward looking company that would definitely use metal wheels, and perhaps could be persuaded on metal axles too once they begin to take lighting seriously, now possible with such a range of excellent lighting PCBs.
 

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hi expat...Richard Johnson's suggestion can still be used...but shorten the length of the metal tube, and ''glue'' to one wheel only?

a drop of something like araldite on the opposite end of the tube will stop it sliding sideways?
 

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QUOTE (goedel @ 28 Jun 2008, 02:34) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>What you need is eBay seller benno002 on eBay Germany

Hi Goedel,

I've had a look at benno's E-bay page and it looks as though he might have what I'm looking for. Only problem is my non-existant German.

I've measured the existing axles, as best I can, and they seem to be just over 15mm from pin point to pin point so I would probably buy a set each of 15.2 mm and 15.4 mm long axles to check before bulk ordering. The wheels seem to be 6.5 mm dia. which leaves me with a choice of the following.

Nr.3 6,2mm A:15,2mm eins. isol. für Modell Piko, Fleischmann
Nr.4 6,2mm A:15,2mm beids. isol. für Modell Piko, Fleischmann
Nr.7 6,2mm A: 15,4mm eins. isol. für Modell Minitrix,Trix
Nr.8 6,2mm A: 15,4mm beids. isol. für Modell Minitrix,Trix

What I'm not sure of are the "isol", "eins" and "beids" translation though I suspect the "isol" might mean the wheels are isolated from the axles (i.e. the axles themselves are not live) which would put me back to square one. I suspect eins & beids mean spoked and disc but not sure which is which.

Could you help me out here.

Cheers,

Trevor
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
QUOTE (Richard Johnson @ 27 Jun 2008, 19:43) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>get some brass tube that is a sliding fit on the axles...
Richard
DCCconcepts

Hi Richard,

Thanks for the suggestion which looks as though it might be my only option if benno doesn't have what I need.

One thing though - I've not come across conductive epoxy before, in fact epoxy filler is used as insulation around HV cable joints. Can you point me to a specific material name ??

Thanks again,

Trevor.
 

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QUOTE (Expat @ 28 Jun 2008, 19:27) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>Hi Richard,

Thanks for the suggestion which looks as though it might be my only option if benno doesn't have what I need.

One thing though - I've not come across conductive epoxy before, in fact epoxy filler is used as insulation around HV cable joints. Can you point me to a specific material name ??

Thanks again,

Trevor.

*** I have it in stock, but will have to recheck the brand name as for the life of me I can't remember.... very high quality stuff though - with a cost to match! (but a little will go a long way in this application)

Remember most of any epoxy glue is actually a "filler" to bulk up the resin which is acctually very thin... conductive epoxy simply uses conductive fillers... I also have a single pack conductive glue but I think for this application the epoxy will be stronger and therefore better....

Alistair - I was intending only one end to be glued to the wheel - which is why I specified slightly shorter than the Back to back... so the other end was at no risk of wheel contact/shorting.

Regards

Richard
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QUOTE (Expat @ 28 Jun 2008, 12:09) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>I've had a look at benno's E-bay page and it looks as though he might have what I'm looking for. Only problem is my non-existant German.

I've measured the existing axles, as best I can, and they seem to be just over 15mm from pin point to pin point so I would probably buy a set each of 15.2 mm and 15.4 mm long axles to check before bulk ordering. The wheels seem to be 6.5 mm dia. which leaves me with a choice of the following.

Nr.3 6,2mm A:15,2mm eins. isol. für Modell Piko, Fleischmann
Nr.4 6,2mm A:15,2mm beids. isol. für Modell Piko, Fleischmann
Nr.7 6,2mm A: 15,4mm eins. isol. für Modell Minitrix,Trix
Nr.8 6,2mm A: 15,4mm beids. isol. für Modell Minitrix,Trix

What I'm not sure of are the "isol", "eins" and "beids" translation... I suspect eins & beids mean spoked and disc but not sure which is which.

Hello Trevor

- no problem - 'eins isol.' means one wheel is isolated from the axle and 'beids isol.' means that both wheels are. All the wheels are disc ones. At least one end has to be isolated or you would get a short circuit. So you want the 'eins' sort, what I would recommend is two of these in one bogie with isolated wheel on the left to collect from right track, then in the other bogie put both isolated wheels on the right and collect from the left. Then you only need to run one wire to each bogie and can collect from each bogie with one piece of brass strip sprung so as to touch both axles simultaneously. This is the least fiddly way of doing things I think and how it is normally done in my European coaches supplied with lighting installed/with a full lighting kit, unless they pick up from the inside of the wheels instead.

I hope this helps! I notice his (benno002's) postage costs are excellent as you would expect for such small items!
 

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QUOTE (goedel @ 28 Jun 2008, 18:15) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>Hello Trevor

- no problem - 'eins isol.' means one wheel is isolated from the axle and 'beids isol.' means that both wheels are. All the wheels are disc ones. At least one end has to be isolated or you would get a short circuit. So you want the 'eins' sort, what I would recommend is two of these in one bogie with isolated wheel on the left to collect from right track, then in the other bogie put both isolated wheels on the right and collect from the left. Then you only need to run one wire to each bogie and can collect from each bogie with one piece of brass strip sprung so as to touch both axles simultaneously. This is the least fiddly way of doing things I think and how it is normally done in my European coaches supplied with lighting installed/with a full lighting kit, unless they pick up from the inside of the wheels instead.

I hope this helps! I notice his (benno002's) postage costs are excellent as you would expect for such small items!

Thanks a million Gödel,

It looks as though the problem is solved so off to benno002's web site to make my purchases.

Cheers,

Trevor.
 
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