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Hi there Kiwi.

I'm assuming you mean the ones where the 6 pin chip goes in then yes they are dcc ready. But if you are wanting to go for the european ones like 66215 and very early ones then no and I would steer clear of them as well as the old ones not dcc ready and are not cost effective to have converted to dcc.

With regards to lights most of the early dapol 66's had a little switch on the bottom next to the batterybox which changed the lights from day/night running but when they introduced the low emission locos like the drs liveried ones and so on then they removed the switch for some reason and now you just have 1 main headlight as well as the top light above the cab windows.

I hope this helps
 

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Thanks for that I have been having a look at past posts and as you say some have, the later ones and the early ones don't and would seem to be a dog to convert. I have gone for a GraFar one (first time in N gauge)
 

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Glad to help and make sure nobody else gets burnt like me.
 

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Kiwi,
The ones Harkins mentions are N gauge locos, i too have some 66's by dapol in N for ease of installation the 6 pin ones are better, as the hardwire for them can be an involved process in one article mention was made of using two decoders or a four function one on the older types, meaning a double head or substantial milling of the chassis.
 

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On sunday night i fitted a decoder to G/F bachmanns 371-380 66200 which has a pcb board fitted, i prefer them to the dapol locos a word of precation on the hardwire though insulate the chassis under the board where the wires are to be soldered with a good tape whilst the board is released from the chassis insulate well where the motor contacts sit either side making sure the tape goes inside the chassis either side of the motor contact to stop any shorting http://nick--orwin.photoblog.me.uk/p52532213.html
inside the red lines in this pic, the full article is here in this link

http://smallphry.com/eecore/index.php/site...dcc_conversion/
 

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QUOTE (upnick @ 5 Aug 2008, 20:00) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>On sunday night i fitted a decoder to G/F bachmanns 371-380 66200 which has a pcb board fitted, i prefer them to the dapol locos a word of precation on the hardwire though insulate the chassis under the board where the wires are to be soldered with a good tape whilst the board is released from the chassis insulate well where the motor contacts sit either side making sure the tape goes inside the chassis either side of the motor contact to stop any shorting http://nick--orwin.photoblog.me.uk/p52532213.html
inside the red lines in this pic, the full article is here in this link

http://smallphry.com/eecore/index.php/site...dcc_conversion/

It is often also recommended to put a bit of shrink wrap round the motor contacts themselves where they sit in the slot in the chassis, as there is a risk that in time these will rub through the paint on the chassis and fry the decoder. The Farish 60 is very similar but if you look at one closely you will find they have done this for you already.

I also tend to put a bit of styrene sheet under the PCB and tape it down, rather than just adding tape on its own. This prevents the board being pushed down onto the chassis, which might make a connection to the blobs of solder round the motor contacts. My first conversion did this when I put the body back on. It also reduces the risk (theoretical I admit) that in time the leads on the bottom of the chassis will wear through the tape.
 

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QUOTE (Edwin @ 5 Aug 2008, 21:29) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>It is often also recommended to put a bit of shrink wrap round the motor contacts themselves where they sit in the slot in the chassis, as there is a risk that in time these will rub through the paint on the chassis and fry the decoder. The Farish 60 is very similar but if you look at one closely you will find they have done this for you already.

I also tend to put a bit of styrene sheet under the PCB and tape it down, rather than just adding tape on its own. This prevents the board being pushed down onto the chassis, which might make a connection to the blobs of solder round the motor contacts. My first conversion did this when I put the body back on. It also reduces the risk (theoretical I admit) that in time the leads on the bottom of the chassis will wear through the tape.

True Edwin i had thought of adding some 5/10 thou plasticard under the board to cover all the chassis and possibilites of a short in the future.
 
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