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Hi all,

I have just purchased a ROCO TEE 63101 set, unfortunately when it arrived the "DCC loco" turns out to be "DCC ready".

I am thinking I can just fit one of the much acclaimed Lenz plug in decoders to the train but I have a couple of questions.

Hope someone can help me with my questions.

1) If I fit a DCC module to the loco and run it on my dcc track will the directional lights in the front loco and BACK cab still work forward/reverse ?

I thought no, but this thread leaves things a little open ?
http://www.modelrailforum.com/forums/index...terior+lighting

2) If I want to fit interior lighting using a standard roco interior lighting kits to the coaches and locos, will the lights be on ALL the time

3) Given the voltage on a DCC track - will all the light bulbs burn out fast as some posts indicate ??

On the note of the above upgrades, can anyone recommend a good train store / hobby shop that specialises in fitting such upgrades ?

(Australia - happy to ship the train somewhere good to get it done)

I'd hate to attempt them myself and break and or damage my pride and joy.
 

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QUOTE (jason101 @ 6 Feb 2008, 22:51) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>Hi all,

I have just purchased a ROCO TEE 63101 set, unfortunately when it arrived the "DCC loco" turns out to be "DCC ready".

I am thinking I can just fit one of the much acclaimed Lenz plug in decoders to the train but I have a couple of questions.

Hope someone can help me with my questions.

1) If I fit a DCC module to the loco and run it on my dcc track will the directional lights in the front loco and BACK cab still work forward/reverse ?

I thought no, but this thread leaves things a little open ?
http://www.modelrailforum.com/forums/index...terior+lighting

2) If I want to fit interior lighting using a standard roco interior lighting kits to the coaches and locos, will the lights be on ALL the time

3) Given the voltage on a DCC track - will all the light bulbs burn out fast as some posts indicate ??

On the note of the above upgrades, can anyone recommend a good train store / hobby shop that specialises in fitting such upgrades ?

(Australia - happy to ship the train somewhere good to get it done)

I'd hate to attempt them myself and break and or damage my pride and joy.

Hello

I do this sort of thing daily in my business.

If you are in Australia I can help you - I am in Perth. PM me and I will send you my phone number as I'd prefer not do go into commercial issues on the forum.

I have loco's delivered to me from every state in all scales as we are known for a professional approach. - two huge G scale diesels from the Gold coast and six expensive New Tenshodo and Precision Brass loco's this week from Sydney and Melbourne are a good example!

I do lots of Roco, Lilliput, Fleischmann, Brawa etc too, so appreciate your concern for your loco


Basic direct answers to your questions.

Of answers on lists, most mean well but are just guesses, assumptions or attempts to appear knowledgeable - don't worry about those posts you read...most are a little off the mark.

Roco do loco lighting well. If you put in a chip, then the directional lighting will work just fine.

Personally I'd use an ESU or TCS decoder not the Lenz, but thats my personal preferences.

DON"T be too afraid to have a go - its never as hard as you think! If you really are not confident, It can be done for you at a reasonable cost, including the decoder.

Whether track voltage will affect the bulb depends on the brand and your track voltage - mostly NO, it will do no harm - especially on Roco products, as Roco's own DCC units have a comparatively high track voltage.

Yes, the coach lights will be on all the time. If you are not confident then I can also arrange to fit lighting for you, probably for a better cost and with a more relistic result than the Roco kits though - and it will NOT have problems under any form of AC. DC or DCC...

I can also add accessory decoders to each coach if you like so you can turn it on and off -depends on the budget of course.

Please look at the review of "flickerfree Lighting kit" in the reviews section for how good and realistic lighting can look!

PM me if you'd like more detailed advice on how YOU can do it - or if you decide you'd like assistance / someone else to do it for you.

Regards

Richard
DCCconcepts
 

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QUOTE (jason101 @ 6 Feb 2008, 13:51) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>1) If I fit a DCC module to the loco and run it on my dcc track will the directional lights in the front loco and BACK cab still work forward/reverse ?

Most current Roco multiple units (as do the driving van trailers or control cabs) use a small mechanical switch mech' to change the lights over in the "dummy" end.
 

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QUOTE Most current Roco multiple units (as do the driving van trailers or control cabs) use a small mechanical switch mech' to change the lights over in the "dummy" end.

So that's how they do it. I've been wondering how our SBB Dino driving car always knew when to switch on its headlights because I've not put a chip in it.

David
 

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In regard to the bulbs you really do want to change these over in DCC use. I have a set of Trix F-Zug coaches with pre-installed lighting for DC use, so they are on all the time. I picked them up to take them off the tracks and boy, were they hot. I will have to change these over to higher voltage bulbs at some point.
 

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QUOTE (neil_s_wood @ 7 Feb 2008, 07:29) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>In regard to the bulbs you really do want to change these over in DCC use. I have a set of Trix F-Zug coaches with pre-installed lighting for DC use, so they are on all the time. I picked them up to take them off the tracks and boy, were they hot. I will have to change these over to higher voltage bulbs at some point.

***Hi Neil

actually this heat is largely due to the excessively high rail voltage of ECOS - something thats rarely commented on but very true.... ECOS in its first release form has in excess of 18volts at the track - WAY too high in fact unless you are running large scale! Ity is a shame tha they do not build in the ability to adjust rail voltage as many brands do - its a very sensible option and easy to implement.

The problem is that apart from over-driving bulbs, the higher voltage means very high peaks - at moment of recovery from a momentary short the voltage peaks to 3x track voltage, which in the case of ECOS and other EU made DCC systems is far in excess of component ratings for all decoders - 18v at the track is momentarily 54 volts plus!

US made systems tend to be 12.5 to 15 volts max at the rails - far more sensible and still enough for more than scale speeds and hauling the heavyest trains.

ECOS - ESU now also offer a slightly lower voltage transformer - ostensibly for N but in reality very much better for HO track power needs.... I'd recommend this for 100% of ECOS users as a much better option. God knows why they can't just offer one at a sensible voltage to start with!

This over-voltage problem is common of many EU made DCC systems - the ROCO is the worst with a measured 22 volts at the rails in early LokMaus - the cause of many a mysterious decoder death!

I always actually either supply a different transformer or make modifications to ECOS transformer output for my clients because of this.

Also....Changing the bulbs isn't the right answer really... change them to what? Replacing them with golden white LEDS is best, with a dropper resistor in the coach wiring the next best choice... both more effective in the long run.

Richard
DCCconcepts
 

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QUOTE (neil_s_wood @ 7 Feb 2008, 12:12) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>Thanks for that information Richard. I may have a look and see if I can still change my power pack to the 15v version.

A much cheaper option for you Neil, as it'll cost U a fortune to do the swap (Airmail post to Germany etc). I'll make up a wee adapter device to be put in the lead between power supply and ECOS - it'll drop a few volts at the supply side and do the same thing

Richard.
 

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QUOTE (Richard Johnson @ 7 Feb 2008, 18:45) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>A much cheaper option for you Neil, as it'll cost U a fortune to do the swap (Airmail post to Germany etc). I'll make up a wee adapter device to be put in the lead between power supply and ECOS - it'll drop a few volts at the supply side and do the same thing

Richard.
Is this a plug in thing Richard? Or would I have to cut open mains leads and insert something.
 

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QUOTE (neil_s_wood @ 8 Feb 2008, 06:25) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>Is this a plug in thing Richard? Or would I have to cut open mains leads and insert something.

Hi Neil.

Nope, I'd never suggest any consumer should touch the mains side of anything unless he was qualified.

It goes in the low voltage output side of the ECOS power supply. In the wire between transformer and ECOS.

This wire is low voltage plain AC and not polarity sensitive - nor is the device. The device is also not sensitive to which way it goes "end to end" wise, so its impossible to get it wrong!


Therefore simply cut the twin wire, splice it in, cover joints with heatshrink and you are done. 4 solder joints, 5 minutes work.

I'll pack the heatshrink in the parcel with it for you.

Richard
 
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