To your 3 key questions :
1 - Wire up your points in the normal DC fashion i.e power from the toe so the point powers the track section the loco will drive into. This even works where 1 point leads to others. As long as the power comes via the toe you are OK. SO you may need some insulated track joiners if you have a circular layout or reverse sidings. No need to replace.
2 - Cost for 40 locos. If you buy chips at £10 then it will cost £400, either in stages or all at once. My advice is to do the locos in stages, starting with the best runners. Buy chips with Back Emf as they give the smoothest running ( Bachmann 36-553 ships are about £10 and are V good )
3 - There are different ways to convert locos depending on type of motor etc but it can be done for 99% of them even the older triang.
Don't attempt to convert those locos that stutter and stall until you have got them running smoothly and consistently otherwise you are wasting your time and they will be even worse with DCC.
1 - Wire up your points in the normal DC fashion i.e power from the toe so the point powers the track section the loco will drive into. This even works where 1 point leads to others. As long as the power comes via the toe you are OK. SO you may need some insulated track joiners if you have a circular layout or reverse sidings. No need to replace.
2 - Cost for 40 locos. If you buy chips at £10 then it will cost £400, either in stages or all at once. My advice is to do the locos in stages, starting with the best runners. Buy chips with Back Emf as they give the smoothest running ( Bachmann 36-553 ships are about £10 and are V good )
3 - There are different ways to convert locos depending on type of motor etc but it can be done for 99% of them even the older triang.
Don't attempt to convert those locos that stutter and stall until you have got them running smoothly and consistently otherwise you are wasting your time and they will be even worse with DCC.
