The copper strips simply exist on the ivatt to connect the pony truck pick-ups to. On virtually every other split chassis is a case of making a fixing for the wires, often by trapping them under a screw head or plastic fixing in one half of the chassis or the other.
DCC for Split Chassis
Hi
Having read Ian Morton's article about converting the split chassis Bachmann Ivatt 2MT to DCC I decided to convert my Bachmann Pannier (900-001) to DCC as it would present no problems with valve gear.
On dismantled the chassis I have discovered that there are no springs connecting the two sides of the chassis, but electrical contact is made by a copper strip making connection from the brush holders to the two halves of the chassis which can be used for the orange/grey leads fron the chip.
The motor has a plastic cover to insulate it from the chassis.
Rail contact is clearly made by direct from the wheels to the chassis, however, there are no copper strips to connect the red/black wires to the chassis.
Can anyone help please.
I will be using a TCS M1 decoder which will fit in the cab.
Regards
Ian
Having read Ian Morton's article about converting the split chassis Bachmann Ivatt 2MT to DCC I decided to convert my Bachmann Pannier (900-001) to DCC as it would present no problems with valve gear.
On dismantled the chassis I have discovered that there are no springs connecting the two sides of the chassis, but electrical contact is made by a copper strip making connection from the brush holders to the two halves of the chassis which can be used for the orange/grey leads fron the chip.
The motor has a plastic cover to insulate it from the chassis.
Rail contact is clearly made by direct from the wheels to the chassis, however, there are no copper strips to connect the red/black wires to the chassis.
Can anyone help please.
I will be using a TCS M1 decoder which will fit in the cab.
Regards
Ian
1 - 4 of 4 Posts
***Better not to trap wires anywhere. It is a recipe for problems.
Drill a small hole in each chassis half and countersink it with a larger drill. drive in two tiny self tapping steel or brass screws. solder wire to the screw heads.
OR. drill two tiny holes so that a bit of brass rod or heavy copper wire is a very tight fit. Countersink it as above. Drive the rod/wire into the holes and cut off flush with the top of the countersink. solder wire to the copper/brass filling the countersink hole with solder.
regards
Richard
Drill a small hole in each chassis half and countersink it with a larger drill. drive in two tiny self tapping steel or brass screws. solder wire to the screw heads.
OR. drill two tiny holes so that a bit of brass rod or heavy copper wire is a very tight fit. Countersink it as above. Drive the rod/wire into the holes and cut off flush with the top of the countersink. solder wire to the copper/brass filling the countersink hole with solder.
regards
Richard
I've done three split chassis locomotives in the way that Richard advises above. (He's repeating it from an earlier post.)
With a bit of care the method is not too difficult. Well, if a ham fisted person like me can do it, anyone can!
With a bit of care the method is not too difficult. Well, if a ham fisted person like me can do it, anyone can!
1 - 4 of 4 Posts
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