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Does anyone know if there are any tutorials out there for installing a decoder in a Bachmann V2, 00 gauge loco?

I've had a look at the service sheet for my model, and found it uses an older Bachmann split chassis. Even worse is the fact that all of the boiler space is taken up with the weight block surrounding the motor.


Because of the way the motor is mounted, I don't think there would be enough room to cut out a space big enough for the decoder in the ballast block.

I may be wrong, but it looks like a tender-mounting job and Im not sure my Hornby decoder has enough spare cable length to reach?

Anyone have any suggestions? Is this going to be as tough as it looks?

Thanks
 

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>Anyone have any suggestions?
I have a V2 and when the time comes I have decided to have it done by a "professional", or in other words someone who has done it before. If I had a fleet of the things or a large number of split frame chassis, then I might be prepared to give it a go.

I came across this site modelyard which explicitly offers a Bachmann split chassis conversion service. It looks pricey but for a "one off", I'm prepared to try it out. Modelyard's background is in doing loco drive conversion for Hornby but now that more of the Hornby range is going loco drive, he is changing direction.

Another company offering conversions is DCC Supplies. From comments made in this Forum, I believe they are getting a lot of work, so it is possible they have plenty of experience in handling a V2.

For my part, the V2 is the first and last split chassis loco I will buy. Since Bachmann have started on the redesign of their LMS 4-6-0 chassis, I don't think I am going to miss too much apart from more V2s to bring some balance to my loco collection.

David
 

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most split frame chassis arn't that difficult, I'm about to put a V2 with a decoder fitted on ebay you could visit
my old (5years old) and I stress old web site:
split frame chassis installation
I've done about 100 odd split frames so I have a bit of experience.
So how to tackle the V2
let see if we can talk you through it by memory !
normal method
remove the body, using two sharp knives gently remove the circlips on the centre drivers remove the rods
remove the base plate, remove the wheels, loosen the chassis screws, gently split the frame. I suggest you take a picture of the motion with a digital camera to help you with reassembly. Fit the decoder, it has to be quite small so I would suggest a TCS M1, Digitrax 123 or 143 I prefer them because they have a shrink wrap and cannot short on the chassis. From memory the decoder should fit inside the smoke box on the extreme front of the chassis. If it won't use a junior hacksaw and cut a slice off the top of the chassis, and then deburr your handy work, there is a photo on my web site on how to do this. The chassis is very soft and cuts easily. Throw away the copper springs and felt used to connect the motor to the chassis, I normally open out this area with the Dremel.
Right your decoder, cut two short lengths of shrink tube and place over the grey and orange wires that will go to the motor terminals. solder the wire to the terminals, and then cover you connection with shrink tube, use a heat source to shrink the tube over any bare wire and the terminals. The chassis haves, I always cut a path for the decoder wires so they don't get pinched on reassembly I used a dremel for this.
Reassembly. Before starting this use a small file and remove any burrs that could cause a short between the chassis halves. Use a Rose or counter sunk bit and lightly chamfer the pin location holes make sure the pins slide in them nicely, this greatly eases reassembly. Locate the motor and the drive gear, I always lightly lubricate with white grease, I have both woodlands grease and La Belle which is even better. Place the insulation pins in their half of the chassis, place the base plate locators in their splots and then bring the other half of the chassis to it and ease them together, it's not too difficult, BREATH OUT once you have achieved this Make sure the decoder wires are not pinched, if your not sure repeat the exercise, this is supposed to be fun now introduce the chassis screws and tighten but do not over tighten. A good knife and a screw driver helps is easing things together, it may look difficult but I've never fialed to reassemble one I promise you. Once the chassis is together then drop in the wheels note they only fit one way, reassemble the motion, and after turning the fly wheel to test everything is correct then fit the circlips. I find it better to reassemble on kitchen towel as it catches most small things "by magic". Now I havn't mention the catazzi assembly as I cannot remember it being a problem, obviously you will replace the brass current collectors on this section of the chassis and you solder the red and black decoder wires to this to collect the current.
You may need to lengthen or red and black wires to get to the end of the loco just join in a bit of wire and seal with heat shrink. locate the decoder with double sided tape or even blue tack but I prefer tape.
Now for the short cut method............... instead of removing the centre driver circlip rather remove the cylinders on each side and drop the motion and wheels out as one. Reassembly is much easier and there's nothing to brake. Use a precision screw driver (buy the 7 quid set at Focus it's quality) and the cyclinders can be eased out of the chassis, everything else remains the same of course.
Please let us know how you get on, most other split frames are similar, GWR types are much easier as the motion comes out as one.
 

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A couple of points I want to stress Neil......I did'nt in the last post as I watching football with one eye !
make your connection to the motor terminals as short as possible, make your shrink tube as short as practical to cover the joints, it makes reassembly easier. The A4 is a great model, I've never had one that dosn't run sweetly. In fact until Bachmann started doing their new chassis the split frame was my chassis of choice. Think about it there's nothing to really go wrong apart from the motor bombing out, or the insulator on the jurnals becoming unglued, another good reason not to over lubricate. I've even got one running in a Hornby Patriot complete with sound. It runs well too !
If you get stuck you can always post here I'm sure we can sort you out.
 

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>.I did'nt in the last post as I watching football with one eye !
The way my team is playing at the moment, watching football with no eyes is the only comfortable way


David
 

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QUOTE (Makemineadouble @ 21 Dec 2006, 09:28) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>A couple of points I want to stress Neil......I did'nt in the last post as I watching football with one eye !
make your connection to the motor terminals as short as possible, make your shrink tube as short as practical to cover the joints, it makes reassembly easier. The A4 is a great model, I've never had one that dosn't run sweetly. In fact until Bachmann started doing their new chassis the split frame was my chassis of choice. Think about it there's nothing to really go wrong apart from the motor bombing out, or the insulator on the jurnals becoming unglued, another good reason not to over lubricate. I've even got one running in a Hornby Patriot complete with sound. It runs well too !
If you get stuck you can always post here I'm sure we can sort you out.

Thanks for that MMaD, it was a special edition of the Empire of India and I wouldn't want to not be able to run it. I will give it a go when I buy my next batch of decoders.
 

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Just to prove the search engine on this site works well, I've found this from a few years ago!

My new loco arrived today, V2 Green Arrow, a bargain on flea bay in excellent looking condition and under DC appears to run well.

I knew it was too good to be true, I thought it was a newer type chassis but nope it's a split chassis type. I've got the instructions with it and when I get back from a long weekend I'm going to attempt my first conversion of a split chassis following MMAD's excellent instructions, wish me luck!
(MMAD be prepared for many posts asking what I do next!)
 

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Got mine like old post found by Mike. Originally fitted Bach.553 between chassis blocks and boiler backhead, tight but fitted. Then re-positioned by cutting off chassis 'ears' at front of motor laying/insulating on top, to enable me to fit tea light firebox led. If yours is like mine, and similar to V1/3, check the front pony wheels, they had pic ups in the form of the 'bearings,' one loco was connected the other not. worth connecting for reliable running if yours is not connected,a very light touch in their width is needed otherwise wheels will skid. I also fitted front led. pleased with result so re sprayed etc in black LNER . Beeman.
 

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QUOTE (Mike Button @ 21 Feb 2012, 18:26) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>...I thought it was a newer type chassis but nope it's a split chassis type. ...
Bachmann are planning release of the same body mouldings on a conventional wiper pick up chassis this year. (Originally scheduled to be available now, slipped to mid year.)

My experience with the split chassis version is that it is the roughest runner of any loco Bachmann have offered in the UK. I have a had a couple which were decent when new, but they wore and became noisy much faster than other similar weight split chassis models such as the Jubilee, A4 and B1. Despite the racket they keep going well enough, until the plating is so badly worn that the pick up becomes totally unreliable, the usual cause of 'retirement' of split chassis types.
 

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Right finally got round to starting after many eventful weekends and I'm confused already.

I've removed the body with no problems, but the front and rear bogies on my version also have pick up wires connected to the chassis so I can't remove them. Should I unsolder the four wires, two front, two rear, one each side, before dismantling further?

Sorry to sound such a clutz but I'd rather not spoil the loco long term.
 

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Ignore that last post, I turned it round and found two screws holding the wires in place one side, there are square plastics "nuts" on the other side though, that appear to go through the chassis, what should I do with these?
 

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If you have the diagram (and if not follow this link to Bach's diagram on their site http://www.bachmann.co.uk/pdfs/31-560.pdf ) then you should be able to identify the way the chassis securing screws go into the square ended plastic connectors that link the two chassis halves together. Notice that there is a plastic washer over the connector to keep the chassis halves spaced off. It is a simple construction but handle these parts gently on reassembly, they can split if the screw is overtightened, and usually the best assembly alignment is obtained by having them quite lightly tightened up.
 

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Thanks yes I got the diagram out and it made sense, successfully have the chassis in tow parts now, all the screws and loose bits safely in a tin, ready for fitting the decoder and reassembly the next time I have an hour spare. So far so good!
 

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Put the flags out and start the cheering!

Yes I've managed to successfully convert my first split chassis design to accept a DCC decoder!

It was fiddly and takes time and patience but in the end wasn't as difficult as I'd been led to believe by some people, and cetainly not worth the £45 my local shop were lanning to charge (not including decoder!)

I've never been a fan of the LNER (despite now living inthe region) but took a lot of delight in watching my preserved version "Green Arrow" running around with a rake of four Hornby Gresley 61'6" teaks.
I then thought I'd have some fun and see what it could do so put 8 Hornby Pullman coaches behind the teaks, no problem for the V2 but drag around 2nd radius curves was causing derailing.

Thanks to all for the advice, I'm not planning to do another conversion in a hurry but if I was faced with the problem again I'd feel a lot more comfortable 2nd time around!
 
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