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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi everyone

I'm kinda surprised I seem to be the first to ask whether anyone has figured out how to remove the body from the new Hornby M7. After doing that carefully, chipping it would appear to be quite simple as the service diagram on the Hornby website shows it is DCC ready. However, first things first, does anyone know how to remove the body without destroying all the fine detail
)

Thanks
Norm
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
John

Thank you so much for the link and very informative page. Here in the States, the smallest decoder I can easily lay my hands on is the Digitrax DZ123 or DZ123PS is the version with the plug. Do you happen to know how that compares in size with the Zimo decoder you used??

Thanks again! Answered all my questions


Norm
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Just to finish this discussion off (perhaps), I got around to fitting the Digitrax DZ123 to my M7, thanks to John's excellent photos. I ended up doing a bit of re-wiring but retaining the 8 pin socket - just making as much room as possible, by shortening existing wires, as well as removing the capacitor. The actual decoder (I used the DZ123PS version with 8 pin plug), then plugged right in, and I placed it just about where John's pictures shows - actually right where the existing piece of black tape is that holds the wires. I removed this, put the decoder under it, and replaced the tape

I didn't have to file down the band on the underside of the boiler and was able to (just) get the body back on without any interference from the decoder.

It runs very well with the Digitrax decoder, which is supposed to be able to handle 1 amp of power, and is priced under $20 US

All the best, and thanks again for the photos John

Norm
 
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