Hi Ian,
welcome to the forum. I am new and have had lots of help as well as finding out the hardway. I recently chipped some jinties at the club and was asked to chip some 125. Whilst not your DMU's there may be some help.
The Hornby 125's had the original Ringfield motor plus the later motor. The early ringfield is staight forward, cut the wires and connect in the chip as normal. For the motor end I used the TCS TI as there is plenty of room (also fitted one to my own Cl101 but no lights yet). This enables connect for red and white lights. I tend to use LED's as bulbs give off a lot of heat and can burn plastic if to close. Not suffered with an LED yet!! I first tried the original bulb with a red LED but one side is white and the other a pink from the red led. Likewise when red one side can hardly been seen. Also not a lot of room for the two. Now use a 2 colour LED which has 3 leads, the common and the red lead and white lead. In the trailing car I use the lighting decoder buying in a pack of 5 which gives some savings. Connect up the red and white LED.
Ringfield II motors are more tricky. As it wasn't my model I did an insultation of the strap connected to the chassis to isolate the spring and brush. I soldered a wire across the spring so it was even stress across the spring. Works well and the guy doesn't want the drill and pin conversion done as he is happy with it. I obtain my decoders from DCC supplies and like some of the other suppliers mentioned on here always have time to offer advice and assistance.
When running in multiple ( I have the ecos and no experience of others but assume they have the basic controls) the selected lights can be turned of by use of the function keys. Must say it looks good when it changes direction and the lights switch over from white to red and vice versa. Convinced me to have a go at fitting lights on my own DMU's.
Sure you will have more giving advice but from a newby returnee hope this is of some help.
welcome to the forum. I am new and have had lots of help as well as finding out the hardway. I recently chipped some jinties at the club and was asked to chip some 125. Whilst not your DMU's there may be some help.
The Hornby 125's had the original Ringfield motor plus the later motor. The early ringfield is staight forward, cut the wires and connect in the chip as normal. For the motor end I used the TCS TI as there is plenty of room (also fitted one to my own Cl101 but no lights yet). This enables connect for red and white lights. I tend to use LED's as bulbs give off a lot of heat and can burn plastic if to close. Not suffered with an LED yet!! I first tried the original bulb with a red LED but one side is white and the other a pink from the red led. Likewise when red one side can hardly been seen. Also not a lot of room for the two. Now use a 2 colour LED which has 3 leads, the common and the red lead and white lead. In the trailing car I use the lighting decoder buying in a pack of 5 which gives some savings. Connect up the red and white LED.
Ringfield II motors are more tricky. As it wasn't my model I did an insultation of the strap connected to the chassis to isolate the spring and brush. I soldered a wire across the spring so it was even stress across the spring. Works well and the guy doesn't want the drill and pin conversion done as he is happy with it. I obtain my decoders from DCC supplies and like some of the other suppliers mentioned on here always have time to offer advice and assistance.
When running in multiple ( I have the ecos and no experience of others but assume they have the basic controls) the selected lights can be turned of by use of the function keys. Must say it looks good when it changes direction and the lights switch over from white to red and vice versa. Convinced me to have a go at fitting lights on my own DMU's.
Sure you will have more giving advice but from a newby returnee hope this is of some help.
